Swash zone sediment dynamics: A comparison of a dissipative and an intermediate beach

Miles, Jon; Butt, Tony; Russell, Paul

doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2006.06.002

Cited by 40 publications

(35 citation statements)

References 29 publications

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“…11 and 12 for cases 5-8) is more noticeable (with a larger berm and bar size) than that for the dissipative beaches, as shown in Figs. 11 (cases 1, 3, 9 and 11) and 12 (cases 2, 4, 10 and 12). This is consistent with the reduced magnitude, relative to an intermediate beach, of turbulence, flow velocity, momentum and wave energy after breaking that occurs on dissipative beaches during both the uprush and backwash (Miles et al, 2006). These results are also consistent with the field results of Miles et al (2006) and the numerical results of Bakhtyar et al (2010a).…”

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confidence: 86%

“…This is consistent with the reduced magnitude, relative to an intermediate beach, of turbulence, flow velocity, momentum and wave energy after breaking that occurs on dissipative beaches during both the uprush and backwash (Miles et al, 2006). These results are also consistent with the field results of Miles et al (2006) and the numerical results of Bakhtyar et al (2010a). They indicated that the sediment transport and concentrations are greater on intermediate beaches than on dissipative beaches.…”

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confidence: 85%

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Numerical experiments on interactions between wave motion and variable-density coastal aquifers

Bakhtyar

Barry

Brovelli

2012

Coastal Engineering

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A comprehensive two-dimensional (cross-shore) process-based numerical model of nearshore hydrodynamics (based on the Navier-Stokes equations, k-ε turbulence closure and the Volume-Of-Fluid method), beach morphology, and variable-density groundwater flow (SEAWAT-2000) was developed. This model, which was applied at the field scale, relaxes simplifications in existing models that do not include such detailed mechanistic descriptions. Numerical experiments were conducted to investigate the effects of varying aquifer, beach and wave characteristics (e.g., inland groundwater head, sand grain size, different wave heights and periods) on the coupled system. Spilling and plunging breakers on dissipative and intermediate beaches were simulated. For a given set of boundary conditions, the model was run for 1 y without the hydrodynamic sub-model to achieve a realistic salt-/freshwater interface. Then, the hydrodynamic component was run for 15 min and the model results analyzed. The main features considered were groundwater circulation, saltwater wedge position, in/exfiltration across the beach face, and beach morphology. The predictions of the numerical model agree well with existing understanding and experimental measurements. For an inland watertable that is lower than the still water level (SWL), such that the groundwater flow is mainly landward, on both coarse and fine sand beaches the addition of wave motion moves the saltwater wedge further landward. For an inland watertable that is higher than the SWL, the opposite behavior occurred. The numerical experiments showed that more sediment transport takes place on intermediate beaches than on dissipative beaches. In addition, beach profile variations are greater under plunging breakers, while coarse sand beaches are steeper than fine sand beaches for the same wave conditions. There is a strong correlation between in/exfiltration and beach face deposition/erosion for the coarse beaches, while in/exfiltration has a slight effect on sediment transport for fine beaches. The model is capable of simulating the short-term evolution of foreshore profile changes, and beach 3 watertable and saltwater wedge movement due to interactions between wave motion and coastal groundwater. IntroductionMost previous investigations concerned with modeling of interactions between ocean water and coastal groundwater focused on tide-induced watertable fluctuations, neglecting high-frequency wave-induced oscillations and variable-density groundwater flow (e.g., Teo et al., 2003;Brovelli et al., 2007;Robinson et al., 2007bRobinson et al., , 2009Slooten et al., 2010;Li et al., , 2007Xin et al., 2010). However, given the interplay of mechanisms inherent in coastal processes -mixing of fresh-and seawater driven by waves, sediment transport and beach profile changes -it is not possible to extrapolate readily existing results to realistic coastal zone behavior.Waves in the nearshore zone are an important forcing on sediments and groundwater behavior. While waves induce instantaneous pore wat...

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confidence: 86%

supporting

confidence: 85%

Numerical experiments on interactions between wave motion and variable-density coastal aquifers

Bakhtyar

Barry

Brovelli

2012

Coastal Engineering

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“…The bed level evolution is, therefore, the resultant of the small difference between the two components (Butt and Russell, 1999;Masselink et al, 2005). Masselink and Russell (2006) and Miles et al (2006) performed comparison of velocity and suspended sediment transport data obtained on a relatively Most of the available sediment transport data on the inner surf and swash zones rely on direct measurements from sediment traps (Alsina et al, 2009;Baldock et al, 2005;Jackson et al, 2004;Masselink and Hughes, 1998;Masselink et al, 2009) or co-located measures of suspended sediment concentration and velocity Alsina and Cáceres, 2011;Masselink et al, 2005;Puleo et al, 2000). Total load traps studies have evidenced a reasonable correlation of measured sediment mass and swash velocities and larger coefficients of proportionality during the uprush than during the backwash, hence, denoting higher transport efficiency during the uprush based on velocity transport concepts (Masselink and Hughes, 1998;Masselink et al, 2009).…”

Section: -Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

An experimental study on sediment transport and bed evolution under different swash zone morphological conditions

Alsina

Caceres

Brocchini

et al. 2012

Coastal Engineering

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“…The majority of the incident swell energy is reduced over dissipative beaches (mildly sloping beaches with wide surf zones) and fringing reefs, while infragravity motions dominate the sea level and runup signals at the shoreline (Guza & Thorton 1982;Ruessink 1998;Miles et. al.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A Practical Approach to Mapping Extreme Wave Inundation: Consequences of Sea-Level Rise and Coastal Erosion

Vitousek

Fletcher²,

Barbee³

2008

Solutions to Coastal Disasters 2008

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This paper outlines a practical approach to mapping extreme wave inundation and the influence of sea-level rise and coastal erosion. The concept is presented for windward Oahu, Hawai'i. Statistical models of extreme wave height and recently developed empirical runup equations (Stockdon et al. 2006) provide extreme runup levels, which overlay georeferenced aerial photos and high-resolution LIDAR elevation models. The alongshore wave height variability that contributes to alongshore runup variability is accounted for by the SWAN spectral wave model. Sea level is found to play a significant role in future inundation levels.

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Swash zone sediment dynamics: A comparison of a dissipative and an intermediate beach

Cited by 40 publications

References 29 publications

Numerical experiments on interactions between wave motion and variable-density coastal aquifers

Numerical experiments on interactions between wave motion and variable-density coastal aquifers

An experimental study on sediment transport and bed evolution under different swash zone morphological conditions

A Practical Approach to Mapping Extreme Wave Inundation: Consequences of Sea-Level Rise and Coastal Erosion

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