Swash-zone morphodynamics

Masselink, Gerd; Puleo, Jack A.

doi:10.1016/j.csr.2006.01.015

Cited by 223 publications

(136 citation statements)

References 92 publications

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“…During the last ten years important progress has been done in the understanding of the swash dynamics that are reflected in several review papers (Brocchini and Baldock, 2008;Elfrink and Baldock, 2002;Masselink and Puleo, 2006). However, there are still many uncertainties to be solved with respect to the swash zone, specially, when dealing with sediment dynamics.…”

Section: -Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…It is a region where the final dissipation of short-waves (sea and swell) takes place while the low-frequency energy (typical wave periods of around 10 to 30 s) is generally reflected back to sea. In addition, interactions between incoming waves and preceding swash events can lead to the generation and reflection of further low-frequency waves (Watson et al, 1994).During the last ten years important progress has been done in the understanding of the swash dynamics that are reflected in several review papers (Brocchini and Baldock, 2008; Elfrink and 3 Baldock, 2002;Masselink and Puleo, 2006). However, there are still many uncertainties to be solved with respect to the swash zone, specially, when dealing with sediment dynamics.…”

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confidence: 99%

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An experimental study on sediment transport and bed evolution under different swash zone morphological conditions

Alsina

Caceres

Brocchini

et al. 2012

Coastal Engineering

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Section: -Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

mentioning

confidence: 99%

An experimental study on sediment transport and bed evolution under different swash zone morphological conditions

Alsina

Caceres

Brocchini

et al. 2012

Coastal Engineering

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“…Sediment transport is then dominated by bed-generated turbulence [Longo et al, 2002;Cowen et al, 2003;Zhang and Liu, 2008;Lanckriet and Puleo, 2013] that may also mobilize sediment as sheet flow [Hughes et al, 2007;Lanckriet et al, 2014]. The relative dominance of the different flow phases (i.e., uprush versus backwash asymmetry) during a swash cycle largely depends on the beach face slope and incident wave conditions [Masselink and Puleo, 2006] and is known to have a large influence controlling the overall morphological response of the beach [Osborne and Rooker, 1999;Blenkinsopp et al, 2011;Puleo et al, 2014a;Masselink et al, 2009].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

On the role of infiltration and exfiltration in swash zone boundary layer dynamics

et al. 2015

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Boundary layer dynamics are investigated using a 2‐D numerical model that solves the Volume‐Averaged Reynolds‐Averaged Navier‐Stokes equations, with a VOF‐tracking scheme and a k ‐ ϵ turbulence closure. The model is validated with highly resolved data of dam break driven swash flows over gravel impermeable and permeable beds. The spatial gradients of the velocity, bed shear stress, and turbulence intensity terms are investigated with reference to bottom boundary layer (BL) dynamics. Numerical results show that the mean vorticity responds to flow divergence/convergence at the surface that result from accelerating/decelerating portions of the flow, bed shear stress, and sinking/injection of turbulence due to infiltration/exfiltration. Hence, the zero up‐crossing of the vorticity is employed as a proxy of the BL thickness inside the shallow swash zone flows. During the uprush phase, the BL develops almost instantaneously with bore arrival and fluctuates below the surface due to flow instabilities and related horizontal straining. In contrast, during the backwash phase, the BL grows quasi‐linearly with less influence of surface‐induced forces. However, the infiltration produces a reduction of the maximum excursion and duration of the swash event. These effects have important implications for the BL development. The numerical results suggest that the BL growth rate deviates rapidly from a quasi‐linear trend if the infiltration is dominant during the initial backwash phase and the flat plate boundary layer theory may no longer be applicable under these conditions.

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“…Beaches evolve through time and space, influenced by morphogenetic processes occurring in multiple dimensions in the surf and swash zones [1]. Following wave breaking, different short-term dynamic processes occur on a beach, mostly wave-induced high/low-frequency swash motions [2], groundwater/bed interactions [3,4], and scouring [5].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

LiDAR Validation of a Video-Derived Beachface Topography on a Tidal Flat

et al. 2017

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Increasingly used shore-based video stations enable a high spatiotemporal frequency analysis of shoreline migration. Shoreline detection techniques combined with hydrodynamic conditions enable the creation of digital elevation models (DEMs). However, shoreline elevations are often estimated based on nearshore process empirical equations leading to uncertainties in video-based topography. To achieve high DEM correspondence between both techniques, we assessed video-derived DEMs against LiDAR surveys during low energy conditions. A newly installed video system on a tidal flat in the St. Lawrence Estuary, Atlantic Canada, served as a test case. Shorelines were automatically detected from time-averaged (TIMEX) images using color ratios in low energy conditions synchronously with mobile terrestrial LiDAR during two different surveys. Hydrodynamic (waves and tides) data were recorded in-situ, and established two different cases of water elevation models as a basis for shoreline elevations. DEMs were created and tested against LiDAR. Statistical analysis of shoreline elevations and migrations were made, and morphological variability was assessed between both surveys. Results indicate that the best shoreline elevation model includes both the significant wave height and the mean water level. Low energy conditions and in-situ hydrodynamic measurements made it possible to produce video-derived DEMs virtually as accurate as a LiDAR product, and therefore make an effective tool for coastal managers.

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Swash-zone morphodynamics

Cited by 223 publications

References 92 publications

An experimental study on sediment transport and bed evolution under different swash zone morphological conditions

An experimental study on sediment transport and bed evolution under different swash zone morphological conditions

On the role of infiltration and exfiltration in swash zone boundary layer dynamics

LiDAR Validation of a Video-Derived Beachface Topography on a Tidal Flat

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