Studies of the Movement of Wool Fibers in Fabrics During Felting, With Particular Reference to the Permanency of Pleats

Makinson, K. Rachel

doi:10.1177/004051755902900511

Cited by 18 publications

(14 citation statements)

References 4 publications

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“…Any early induction period, as found on milling tests [35], and with a worsted fabric [28,29], could not be detected in any of our tests, at times of washing down to 1 min. and with an accuracy of about * 1% actual area shrinkage.…”

Section: Felting Shrinkage Of Untreated Fabricsmentioning

confidence: 47%

“…It would be misleading, therefore, to speak of the second stage of the curves as a &dquo;shrinkage-resistance breakdown&dquo; [e.g., 7 , since this implies that uneven treatments are necessarily obtained or that the felting property is in some way restored to the treated fihers, a most unlikely happening. Makinson ( 28,29] has shown that, in the initial stages of felting of a worsted fabric, lengths of fibers move rootwards and eventually produce loops on the front parts. When the loops are sufficiently large, entanglements begin to occur and measurable felting begins.…”

Section: Felting Shrinkage Of Untreated Fabricsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Rate of Felting of Untreated and Shrink-Resistant Wool Fabrics

McPhee¹

1961

Textile Research Journal

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Shrinkage-time curves for a range of wool fabrics, and the effect of various shrinkproofing treatments on these curves, have been studied. Felting rates of untreated fabrics depend on fabric structure and applied force in the way previously established [e.g., 3, 13, 15]. The shrinkage-time curves of treated fabrics show two definite stages, an initial portion indicating a very low felting rate, followed by a second stage where felting may be much more rapid. For a given fabric structure and given applied force, the felting rates of both stages, and the times at which the second stage begins, depend on the degree of treatment. The two-stage curves indicate two distinct steps in the felting of the fabrics and are not due to the fibers being unevenly treated.Frictional properties of treated Merino 64's fibers show no correlation with shrink resistance, and the results are qualitatively different from those found with Lincoln 36's.The importance of defining washing conditions when testing shrink-resistant wool fabrics is again emphasized by results showing that quite different impressions can be gained by washing in different machines and thereby applying different mechanical forces to the fabrics. In an extreme case, a treated fabric of loose structure, when washed for a given time in two different machines, can appear to be either completely shrinkproofed or scarcely shrink-resistant at all.

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Section: Felting Shrinkage Of Untreated Fabricsmentioning

confidence: 47%

Section: Felting Shrinkage Of Untreated Fabricsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Rate of Felting of Untreated and Shrink-Resistant Wool Fabrics

McPhee¹

1961

Textile Research Journal

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“…The effect on hygral expansion may be due to microfelting [8], where the yams are deset by very small felting-type movements or individual fibres so that their set shape no longer conforms exactly with the shape of the yams in the fabric [9]. The fabric will then behave as in its unset form, in which the yarn interactions are much higher than those in set fabrics (confirmed by the shear values).…”

Section: Results and Discdssionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Using Milling to Control the Hygral Expansion of Piece-dyed Worsted Fabrics

Nilon

Wemyss

1988

Journal of the Textile Institute

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“…Makinson [24] has described the configurations of fibers in a worsted fabric during washing. Before any felting is visible to the nake.d eye and while the characteristic shape of the fibers IS unchanged, incipient or microfelting occurs, and fibers undergo small longitudinal displacements towards their root ends.…”

Section: Stages During Feltingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wool Shrinkproofing Studies

Williams

1963

Textile Research Journal

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Potassium perrnanganate in water confers shrink resistance on wool fabric, the degree of initial shrink resistance increasing with addition of inorganic salts. On extended severe washing, fabrics treated in higher salt concentrations felt at a greater rate, once the initial period of shrink resistance has passed, than do fabrics treated in low salt concentrations. On the basis of these observations a theory of felting shrinkage is proposed which defines felting behavior of treated wool in terms of cuticle and cortex modification. Cortex modification need only be in the outer layers.Shrink resistance conferred by cuticle modification is characterized by an initial period during which no felting shrinkage takes place, followed by felting at a rate similar to that of untreated wool. Permanganate in saturated salt is an example of such a cuticle treatment.Shrink resistance conferred by outer cortex modification is not achieved by a shrink resist induction period, but by a reduced rate of felting shrinkage. Examples of shrinkproofing treatments resulting in outer cortex modification are: permanganate in water; dry, acid, and alkaline chlorinations; and the additional shrink resistance, following permanganate oxidation, conferred by residue times in bisulfite beyond that necessary to clear manganese dioxide.In permanganate treatments followed by reductive clearing, the major portion of shrink resistance is imparted during the oxidation stage for treatments in saturated salt, and during the clearing stage for treaments in water.

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Studies of the Movement of Wool Fibers in Fabrics During Felting, With Particular Reference to the Permanency of Pleats

Cited by 18 publications

References 4 publications

Rate of Felting of Untreated and Shrink-Resistant Wool Fabrics

Rate of Felting of Untreated and Shrink-Resistant Wool Fabrics

Using Milling to Control the Hygral Expansion of Piece-dyed Worsted Fabrics

Wool Shrinkproofing Studies

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