2010
DOI: 10.1144/sp346.3
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Sheltered sandy beaches of southwestern Australia

Abstract: Four beach types were identified from field surveys of beach profiles on low-energy sandy beaches in Cockburn Sound, a micro-tidal, semi-enclosed basin in southwestern Australia. These were delineated by an exposure factor (Ef), which provided a surrogate for the relationship between incident wave energy and attenuation as a result of structures, banks and shoals. The four beach profiles identified were exponential, segmented, concave-curvilinear and convex-curvilinear in form. Whether the different profile sh… Show more

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Cited by 22 publications
(7 citation statements)
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“…The subaerial beach profiles in this study were largely planar/slightly concave in the Pittwater Estuary, consistent with the findings of Hegge et al (1996) and Travers et al (2010) that more protected low-energy beaches sheltered by islands, reefs and headlands tend to have a concave shape. In Kamay, the beach closest to the entrance Figure A2) resulting in often a convex profile.…”
Section: Bay and Estuary Beach Morphology And Swell Exposuresupporting
confidence: 92%
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“…The subaerial beach profiles in this study were largely planar/slightly concave in the Pittwater Estuary, consistent with the findings of Hegge et al (1996) and Travers et al (2010) that more protected low-energy beaches sheltered by islands, reefs and headlands tend to have a concave shape. In Kamay, the beach closest to the entrance Figure A2) resulting in often a convex profile.…”
Section: Bay and Estuary Beach Morphology And Swell Exposuresupporting
confidence: 92%
“…In Kamay, the beach closest to the entrance Figure A2) resulting in often a convex profile. It is notable that Yarra had a largely concave-curvilinear shape, which is indicative of more exposed conditions on sheltered beaches according to Travers et al (2010). Some of the profile changes are related to a small estuary/creek located near P2; preliminary wave measurements and anecdotic evidence suggest that this beach is strongly influenced by waves reflected off the adjacent port revetment (Figure 1c) that raise the hydrodynamic level of this beach.…”
Section: Bay and Estuary Beach Morphology And Swell Exposurementioning
confidence: 97%
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“…The importance of the above forcing mechanisms have been effectively discussed by several authors, who identify the foreshore as being the most active part of the profile (Nordstrom, ; Jackson and Nordstrom, ; Jackson, ). The slope and elevation of the fronting tidal flat, in the nearshore, affects wave energy by decreasing wave height by up to 70% (depending on wind conditions and terrace width; Travers et al ., ) and diminishes beach mobility (Jackson and Nordstrom, ; Eliot et al ., ). Geological inheritance can also be a dominant influence on profile shape where wave energy does not exceed the threshold for sediment mobilization or where the shoreline configuration limits sediment inputs or modifies wave activity (Nordstrom and Jackson, ; Kennedy, ).…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%