Sewability of denim

Abstract

IntroductionFabric quality alone does not fulfil all the criteria for production of high quality garments. The conversion of a two-dimensional fabric into a three-dimensional garment involves many other interactions[1] such as selection of a suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric to garment and actual performance of a sewn fabric during wear of the garment.The selection of sewing thread for a fabric depends on the dimensional and mechanical properties of the fabric and the sewing thread, their compatibility, the sewing process and the end use of the garment [2][3][4][5][6][7][8][9][10][11]. Similarly the quality and performance of a sewn garment depends on various factors such as seam strength, slippage, puckering, appearance and yarn severance [4,12]. All these factors combined together contribute to sewability of the fabric which is considered to be one of the most important aspects of clothing science.The study of sewability in clothing manufacture in general and its importance, particularly in denim based clothing, has considerable relevance in today's advanced garment manufacturing processes. Modern garment manufacturing processes use motorized high-speed sewing machines, which exert very high tensions in the thread and also high forces of penetration of needles in the fabric [10,13]. As a result, both the sewing thread and the yarns in the fabric get abraded/severed during the seaming process. The extent of damage becomes more critical if the fabric being used is of a dense, thick and heavy construction such as denim. At the same time, if the sewing thread is not properly selected with respect to the construction of the fabric and nature of treatment the thread will get during sewing, the seam performance will deteriorate in the final garment. In the context of denim based garments, particularly trousers and jackets, sewing thread is not only used for joining the fabric but also for decorative purposes along the seam line. The thread poses a linear projection on the surface of the garments and is subjected to more abrasion than the garment. Therefore, unless the sewing thread chosen for a denim garment is stronger, it may break before the fabric does.This study evaluated the sewability of denim in relation to the dimensional and mechanical properties of the fabric and sewing threads.

The influence of weft density, weft yarn count and finishing on slippage resistance of yarns at seam

“…Prior to this, Shimazaki et al [3] proposed the use of an empirical equation for calculating the seam slippage depending upon the sewing length, loading and the axis of loading. Behera et al [4] emphasized that the seam slippage is related to mechanical properties of fabric and seam threads. Gurarda et al [5] showed that the reduction of the weft density results in the increase of the seam slippage.…”

Appearance issues in garment processing

“…Furthermore, excessively heavy fabrics can also cause seam pucker. According to research by Behera et al, 1 the weight of a denim fabric is one of the factors affecting the seam appearance; results showed that puckering consistently increased with an increase in the weight of denim fabric. When the sewing thread penetrates a heavy fabric, it introduces a very high contractive force.…”

“…1 The appearance of a garment is affected by the quality of the fabrics used in its manufacture, as well as the factors determined by the technology and parameters of the garment manufacturing process. The selection and use of the processes and parameters can ultimately affect the garment appearance.…”

The prediction of seam strength of denim fabrics with mathematical equations

“…The sewing thread performance in terms of seam efficiency, pucker, slippage, and needle cutting index was determined by Behera, Chand, Singh, and Rathee (1997). In addition to this, the results were analyzed in the light of the dimensional and mechanical properties of the fabric, thread, and seam.…”