Sediment Transport Beyond the Surf Zone Under Waves and Currents of the Non-Tidal Sea: Lubiatowo (Poland) Case Study

Abstract

The paper deals with the sandy coastal zone at Lubiatowo in Poland (the south Baltic Sea). The study comprises experimental and theoretical investigations of hydrodynamic and lithodynamic processes in the coastal region located close to the seaward boundary of the surf zone and beyond the surf zone. The analysis is based on field data collected at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo. The data consist of wind velocity reconstructed from the long-term wave climate, deep-water wave buoy records and sea bottom soil parameters. Nearbed flow velocities induced by waves and currents, as well as bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for various conditions to determine sediment motion regimes in the considered area. The paper discusses the possibility of occasional intensive sediment transport and the occurrence of distinct sea bed changes at bigger water depths.

On Uncertainties in Determination of Sediment Transport Rates in Coastal Regions

“…Recently, Ostrowski and Stella (2016) have presented a study concerning sediment transport beyond the surf zone under waves and wind-induced currents of the non-tidal sea. Their investigations were based on wave data collected at CRS Lubiatowo and a long-term reconstruction of the regional wind climate.…”

“…Nielsen 2009). This effect was taken into account in the study of Ostrowski and Stella (2016). The modelling results showed that the highest bed shear stresses are generated by the joint action of waves and the wind-driven current.…”