Sediment accumulation in embayments controlled by bathymetric slope and wave energy: Implications for beach formation and persistence

Preston, John; Hurst, Martin D.; Mudd, Simon M.; Goodwin, Guillaume; Newton, Anthony; Dugmore, Andrew

doi:10.1002/esp.4405

Cited by 11 publications

(6 citation statements)

References 40 publications

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“…Through numerical modelling, Preston et al (2018) investigated the role of slope and wave energy in nearshore morphodynamics. They showed that for an embayed beach, shoreface slope exerted a control on beach recovery.…”

Section: Drivers Of Shoreface Morphology 821 Lower Shorefacementioning

confidence: 99%

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Shoreface mesoscale morphodynamics: A review

Hamon-Kerivel

Cooper

Jackson

et al. 2020

Earth-Science Reviews

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At seasonal to century timescales (mesoscale), the shoreface is a critical zone seaward of the surf zone and/or beachface, in which waves interact with the mobile seafloor to cause morphological change.This has important (and often unacknowledged) implications for adjacent shoreline form and behaviour both now and in the near-future. The shoreface has been relatively little studied from a mesoscale morphodynamic (morphological change over time) perspective and various definitions exist regarding its extent and morphodynamic subdivisions. To overcome the diversity and ambiguity of existing definitions we propose a standard terminology involving the external limits and subordinate zones of the shoreface.In our definition, the landward limit of the shoreface coincides with the seaward limit of the fair weather surf zone, and where no surf zone is present, the base of the beachface. The shoreface itself is subdivided into upper and lower shorefaces, separated by the depth of closure (DoC) as defined by Hallermeier (1981). The seaward limit of the lower shoreface is defined by the limit of significant sediment transport, indicated by bed shear stress according to Valiente et al. (2019). All boundaries are temporally variable according to wave characteristics and timescale of study.The upper shoreface is dynamic at seasonal to annual timescales and interacts with the adjacent surfzone via wave transformation and two-way sediment exchange. The lower shoreface is dynamic at decadal to millennial timescales and it interacts with the adjacent upper shoreface and inner shelf.The upper shoreface is strongly influenced by wave hydrodynamics whereas the lower shoreface is less dynamic and its shape is more heavily influenced by geological factors (nature and/or abundance of sediment, depth and erodibility of rock outcrop, etc.). Sediment exchange both within the shoreface and between shoreface and adjacent environments is strongly event-driven. Longshore, onshore and offshore transport mechanisms have been documented.The shoreface profile influences, and is influenced by, wave transformation, however, the widely adopted shoreface equilibrium profile is not universally applicable. Instead, a diversity of shoreface morphologies exists in two and three dimensions. These are likely related to sediment supply and accommodation and we propose a spectrum of shoreface types based on these variables. Recent studies have shown that large-scale 3-D forms (e.g. shoreface-connected ridges and sorted bedforms) strongly influence shoreline behaviour, however, the dynamics of these shoreface bedforms requires further investigation. Each type of shoreface likely exhibits distinctive behaviour at the mesoscale (time scale of 10 1 to 10 2 years and a spatial scale of 10 1 to 10 2 km). This is proposed as a unifying model with which to integrate studies of shoreface dynamics at different spatial and temporal scales.

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Section: Drivers Of Shoreface Morphology 821 Lower Shorefacementioning

confidence: 99%

“…"bathymetric slope is a major control on the nearshore sediment budget under calm climatic conditions". However, during storms, hydrodynamics seem to have more control over sediment loss than the slope (Preston et al, 2018).…”

Section: Drivers Of Shoreface Morphology 821 Lower Shorefacementioning

confidence: 99%

Shoreface mesoscale morphodynamics: A review

Hamon-Kerivel

Cooper

Jackson

et al. 2020

Earth-Science Reviews

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“…Coasts are dynamic, complex systems and their features are constantly changing because of both natural and human factors (Kurt et al, 2010;Ponte Lira et al (2016)). The natural processes that induce such changes include, amongst others, sea level variations due to global warming, wave climate alterations and coastal drift (Schnack et al, 2002;Caires et al, 2006;Stanica and Ungureanu, 2010;Hemer et al, 2013;IPCC, 2014;Dabrio and Polo, 2015;Johnson et al, 2015;Preston et al, 2018;Glavovic et al, 2019). The transformations to them that human activities can result in are, in many cases, irreparable.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Beach surface lost historically: The case of the eastern coast of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (Canary Islands, Spain)

Pérez-Hernández

Santana-Cordero

Hernández‐Calvento

et al. 2020

Ocean & Coastal Management

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Land use changes cause significant loss of natural and cultural elements. This is the case of the eastern coast of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (LPGC) (Canary Islands), which was heavily transformed between the late XIX century and the 1960s by increased urban sprawl. Most of the beaches were covered by the city and, therefore, disappeared. The aim of the study is to identify and describe the natural characteristics of the beaches lost between 1879 and 2017 along the eastern coastline of LPGC, as well as to quantify the lost surface area. The changes in land uses that have taken place around these beaches are also addressed. For these purposes, historical sources (documentary, graphic, cartographic and oral) and geographic information systems (GIS) have been used. The results show that, since 1879, eleven beaches, with an extension of 13.19 ha, have disappeared and, with them, their natural and cultural features. Eight land uses were identified: fishing, defensive, agriculture, port, industrial, commercial, residential and recreational. It was also found that beaches from the northern and central sectors had more varied uses than those of the southern sector, which tended to be mainly used for fishing. The results are analyzed at both global and local scale. At global scale, different effects of globalization on coastal urban areas are discussed. At local scale, a discussion is undertaken on how the knowledge acquired can be used to improve future urban planning and to rebuild the memory of the city's coast for its inhabitants and visitors.

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“…Preston et al . () investigated how sediment accumulation in embayments can be affected by local bathymetry and available wave energy. Their work showed the profound implications for general beach formation and endurance of any beach that may form within a coastal compartment.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The onshore moving bars were also shown to be narrower and steeper as they migrated onshore, mirroring wave shoaling, with results highlighting the importance of characterizing nearshore bars as a three-dimensional (3D) system. Preston et al (2018) investigated how sediment accumulation in embayments can be affected by local bathymetry and available wave energy. Their work showed the profound implications for general beach formation and endurance of any beach that may form within a coastal compartment.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%