‘Scatter my ashes at Saks Fifth Avenue’: Boundary work and intermediation in the fashion landscape

Foster, Jordan

doi:10.1177/13675494221099578

Cited by 3 publications

(1 citation statement)

References 58 publications

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“…They usually reconcile commercial and aesthetic logics of culture (Cronin and Edwards, 2021). These legitimation processes shape taste hierarchies and influences how consumers engage with products (Childress et al, 2021;Foster, 2022). Intermediation is found in roles from bar tenders (Ocejo, 2017) to acquisition editors (Childress, 2012) and literary critics (Chong, 2020).…”

Section: Cultural Intermediaries In Fashionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“Who made my clothes?” How transparency apps bring politics to cultural fields

Brans

2023

Journal of Consumer Culture

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As the climate crisis accelerates, consumers, lawmakers, and activists demand transparent supply chains in industries that form the material backbone of cultural fields such as fashion. Consequently, new apps have emerged that promise to make supply chains transparent by translating opaque production data into easily comprehensible product ratings. Integrating the literature on transparency, cultural intermediaries, and digital consumption apps, this article asks: how do these apps, which I call transparency apps, afford politics in cultural fields and new political ways of consumption? Using fashion as a strategic case of a cultural field with strong material underpinnings, this paper combines a walkthrough analysis of Good On You, Retraced, and Renoon with interviews of employees of the first two. I found these apps to afford a politics of transparency consist of eco-progressive values embedded in ideologies of consumer rights and self-optimization, which elevates the technical-material logic of fashion at the cost of its aesthetic logic. This politics is usually offered in a personalized form resembling platformized cultural production. Transparency apps are thus politicizing cultural intermediaries that simultaneously enable and limit the political contestation of fashion. This article demonstrates how transparency apps bring politics to cultural fields, upsetting usual logics in the process, carrying implications for any cultural field that faces demands for supply chain transparency.

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Section: Cultural Intermediaries In Fashionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“Who made my clothes?” How transparency apps bring politics to cultural fields

Brans

2023

Journal of Consumer Culture

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Class Experience Mobility through Consumption, Work, and Relationships

Laemmli

2024

Sociological Theory

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Sociological analyses of class mobility focus on enduring class movement. How might we reconceptualize class mobility to capture more shifting experiences of class? I propose a new way to theorize class mobility that is oriented toward the analysis of short-term class mobility. Class experience mobility (CEM) is a form of class mobility in which people temporarily access a class lifestyle that does not correspond to their class position, tasting another life before returning to their own. In this theory-building article, I first conceptualize CEM, situating it relative to mainstream class analysis. I then describe six class experience processes that enable temporary upward class mobility through consumption, work, and relationships. Finally, I show how the processes by which people engage in CEM can serve as mechanisms shaping long-term class mobility and people’s classed self-understandings.

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«We are new farmers selling products from rural area»: the labor process to perform authenticity of live e-commerce sellers in China

Duan

2023

Sociologia Della Comunicazione

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This article examines the labor process to perform authenticity of live e-commerce sellers, so-called "new farmers", as entrepreneurial subjects, in rural China. The author conducted fieldwork in three live e-commerce teams for one year. Drawing on these data, this article elaborates the exploitative aspect of plat-form labor by describing the tension between mobilization narratives and the labor experience to perform authenticity. These mobilization narratives include interre-lated discourse praising performing authenticity of new farmers, including the ad-vantage of visualization technology, making the marginalized visible, and em-powerment for entrepreneurial individuals. However, these myth obscures the physical labor, gatekeeping process, and necessary capital to construct authentici-ty online. The author concludes by arguing the platform economy demands hybrid labor regime and enhances, instead of improving the social status of marginalized rural subjects.

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‘Scatter my ashes at Saks Fifth Avenue’: Boundary work and intermediation in the fashion landscape

Cited by 3 publications

References 58 publications

“Who made my clothes?” How transparency apps bring politics to cultural fields

“Who made my clothes?” How transparency apps bring politics to cultural fields

Class Experience Mobility through Consumption, Work, and Relationships

«We are new farmers selling products from rural area»: the labor process to perform authenticity of live e-commerce sellers in China

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