Safety Assessment of Vitis vinifera (Grape)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

Abstract

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 24 Vitis vinifera (grape)-derived ingredients and found them safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics. These ingredients function in cosmetics mostly as skin-conditioning agents, but some function as antioxidants, flavoring agents, and/or colorants. The Panel reviewed the available animal and clinical data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Additionally, some constituents of grapes have been assessed previously for safety as cosmetic ingredients by the Panel, and others are compounds that have been discussed in previous Panel safety assessments.

Relevance of Natural Phenolics from Grape and Derivative Products in the Formulation of Cosmetics

“…The number of 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA)-positive melanocytes, melanin 8-hydroxy-20-deoxyguanosine and melanin-Ki-67-positive cells, and melanin proliferating cell nuclear antigen-positive cells decreased in the grape seed extract group compared to the control group [5].…”

“…Pesticide residues and heavy metals that may be present in botanical ingredients should be controlled by the cosmetics industry to limit these impurities in the ingredient before blending into cosmetic formulation. Grape-derived ingredients did not produce systemic toxicity in oral single-dose or long-term (up to 12 months) repeated dose studies; grape color extract was not a reproductive or developmental toxicant; grape-derived ingredients do not appear to be irritants or sensitizers and an expert panel concluded the grape derived ingredients listed subsequently are safe in the present practices and concentrations in cosmetics [5].…”

“…In cosmetics, stem cells extracted from substances of vegetable origin, rich in polyphenols such as resveratrol, and luteolin or peptides able to activate the genes of the Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide NAD-dependent sirtuins [44]. A V. vinifera shoot extract had significantly stronger in vitro antioxidant capacity than Vitamin C or Vitamin E on keratinocytes and topically applied in a serum improved the main clinical signs of photoaged skin [5]. Furthermore, resveratrol and flavonoids are active substances in dermatological formulations for the prevention, slowing, or reversion of skin tumorigenesis [45,46].…”

“…Grape therapy has been proposed for the treatment of extrinsic skin aging processes [37,38]. Some commercial products contain pure natural compounds from grape, such as procyanidins, quercetin, or resveratrol [39], and melatonin [5], which are effective in delaying the onset of a variety of age-related diseases [40]. New phytoproducts for skin rejuvenation are in high demand, and in a study assessing the top currently marketed anti-aging creams, grape seed extract was found one of the most common botanicals [41].…”

Revalorization of Grape Seed Oil for Innovative Non-Food Applications

“…[102]. Grape seed oil has been presented by Fiume et al [103], as a safe alternative to these synthetic compounds, which are to be incorporated in cosmetics. Mbah [104] compared diferent vegetable oils with grape seed to act as lipophilic substance, indicating that it can be a potential dermal permeation enhancer.…”