Runup variability due to time dependence and stochasticity in the beach profiles: two extreme cases of the Spanish coast

Díaz-Sánchez, R.; Gutiérrez, José Santos López; Lechuga, Antonio; Negro, Vicente

doi:10.2112/si70-001.1

Cited by 6 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 12 publications

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“…As this study aims at providing a first-order estimate, R is here computed using empirical formulae. For instance, Diaz-Sanchez et al 85 mention that the scatter between empirically predicted and observed R can be due to local processes that are not represented by the formulations' predictors.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

A global analysis of extreme coastal water levels with implications for potential coastal overtopping

et al. 2021

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Climate change and anthropogenic pressures are widely expected to exacerbate coastal hazards such as episodic coastal flooding. This study presents global-scale potential coastal overtopping estimates, which account for not only the effects of sea level rise and storm surge, but also for wave runup at exposed open coasts. Here we find that the globally aggregated annual overtopping hours have increased by almost 50% over the last two decades. A first-pass future assessment indicates that globally aggregated annual overtopping hours will accelerate faster than the global mean sea-level rise itself, with a clearly discernible increase occurring around mid-century regardless of climate scenario. Under RCP 8.5, the globally aggregated annual overtopping hours by the end of the 21st-century is projected to be up to 50 times larger compared to present-day. As sea level continues to rise, more regions around the world are projected to become exposed to coastal overtopping.

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Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

A global analysis of extreme coastal water levels with implications for potential coastal overtopping

et al. 2021

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“…A variety of empirical formulae exist to estimate wave setup and runup. Recent studies have extensively tested the most commonly used ones (e.g., Atkinson et al, 2017; Cohn & Ruggiero, 2016; Di Luccio et al, 2018; Díaz‐Sánchez et al, 2014; Ji et al, 2018; O'Grady et al, 2019; Passarella et al, 2018; Power et al, 2019; Pullen et al, 2007; Sénéchal et al, 2011; Stockdon et al, 2014; Vousdoukas et al, 2012). These studies have shown the significant skills of these formulae in different study cases and their ability to outperform process‐based models for R 2% (Stockdon et al, 2014).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…We consider different cases for β: β lc : Locally observed, time‐invariant beach face slope. We used the data set of Barboza and Defeo (2015) and complemented it with a literature search (Almar et al, 2019; Bascom , 1951; Bujalesky , 2007; Carranza‐Edwards et al, 1998; Carrasco et al, 2009; Cesaraccio et al, 2004; Cuevas et al, 2010; Díaz‐Sánchez et al, 2014; Isla & Bujalesky, 2005; Ivamy & Kench, 2006; Karunarathna et al , 2016; Lefebvre et al, 2014; Maurer & Johnson, 2017; Norcross et al, 2002; Pino & Jaramillo, 1992; Poulos et al, 2013; Reis & Gama, 2009; Rodríguez‐Polo et al, 2018; Sénéchal, 2017; S06). Foreshore beach slopes are provided for 308 beaches worldwide (Figure 1a), ranging from 0.005 to 0.20, with a median value of 0.04 and a mean value of 0.055. β gc : Globally constant, time‐invariant beach face slope.…”

Section: Methods and Datamentioning

confidence: 99%

“…These studies have shown the significant skills of these formulae in different study cases and their ability to outperform process-based models for R 2% (Stockdon et al, 2014). The scatter between empirically predicted and observed setup or runup can be due to second order processes (e.g., variability of the beach slope and nearshore morphological control on runup that is not captured when only accounting for the beach slope) that are not represented by the formulations' predictors (e.g., Díaz-Sánchez et al, 2014).…”

Section: Journal Of Geophysical Research: Oceansmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Contribution of Wave Setup to Projected Coastal Sea Level Changes

et al. 2020

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Along open coasts, wind waves are a key driver of coastal changes and can be major contributors to coastal hazards. Wind wave characteristics are projected to change in response to climate change, notably due to changes in atmospheric circulation patterns and the associated surface winds. Here, a first‐order estimate of projected 20‐yr mean wave setup changes, excluding extreme events and subannual variability, is provided for sandy beaches along most of the world's coastline over the middle and end of the 21st century. Calculations are based on an ensemble of wave model projections under the representative concentration pathways (RCP) 8.5 and on empirical formulations for wave setup. Projected wave setup changes are compared to other contributors currently accounted for in regional sea level projections to extend existing projections of 21st century coastal sea level changes. Projected wave setup changes exhibit a clear spatial heterogeneity and mostly average out at global scale. However, at regional or local scale, wave setup changes are a small yet nonnegligible contributor to total coastal sea level 20‐yr mean changes (which include global mean sea level rise, GMSLR) over the middle and end of the 21st century. Wave setup can be a substantial contributor to local departures of coastal sea level changes from GMSLR. Wave setup changes should therefore be included in projections of regional patterns of coastal sea level changes. The reported long‐term changes in wave setup also advocate for the inclusion of nonstationary wave contributions to projected regional patterns of coastal sea level changes, including for studies on extreme events.

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“…Mase suggested a = 1.86 and b = 0.71, based on his laboratory tests [32] . Several field tests have been conducted by various authors, but they were mostly located on high-wave-energy coasts of the United States, the Netherlands, Portugal, Spain or Australia [23] , [28] , [33] , [34] . One study for the Baltic sea could be identified, to our best knowledge, albeit it did not include any adjustments of parameters [35] .…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Application of Empirical Wave Run-Up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast

et al. 2014

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Advanced, multidimensional models are typically applied when researching processes occurring in the nearshore. Relatively simple, empirical equations are commonly used in coastal engineering practice in order to estimate extreme wave run-up on beaches and coastal structures. However, they were mostly calibrated to the characteristics of oceanic coasts, which have different wave regime than a semi-enclosed basin like the Baltic Sea. In this paper we apply the formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea coast. The equations were adjusted to match local conditions in two test sites in Międzyzdroje and Dziwnówek, where beaches are under continuous video surveillance. Data from WAM wave model and coastal gauge stations were used, as well as precise measurements of the beaches' cross-sections. More than 600 run-up events spanning from June to December 2013 were analysed, including surges causing dune erosion. Extreme wave run-up R2% was calculated and presented as a percentage value indicating what part of the beach was inundated. The method had a root-mean-square error of 6.1 and 6.5 percentage points depending on the test site. We consider it is a fast and computationally undemanding alternative to morphodynamic models. It will constitute a part of the SatBałtyk Operating System-Shores, delivering forecasts of wave run-up on the beaches for the entire Polish coastline.

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Runup variability due to time dependence and stochasticity in the beach profiles: two extreme cases of the Spanish coast

Cited by 6 publications

References 12 publications

A global analysis of extreme coastal water levels with implications for potential coastal overtopping

A global analysis of extreme coastal water levels with implications for potential coastal overtopping

Contribution of Wave Setup to Projected Coastal Sea Level Changes

Application of Empirical Wave Run-Up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast

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