With high anthropogenic pressure and the effects of climate change (e.g., sea level rise) on coastal regions, there is a greater need for accurate and up-to-date information about the topography of these systems. Reliable topography and bathymetry information are fundamental parameters for modelling the morpho-hydrodynamics of coastal areas, for flood forecasting, and for coastal management. Traditional methods such as ground, ship-borne, and airborne surveys suffer from limited spatial coverage and temporal sampling due to logistical constraints and high costs which limit their ability to provide the needed information. The recent advancements of spaceborne remote sensing techniques, along with their ability to acquire data over large spatial areas and to provide high frequency temporal monitoring, has made them very attractive for topography and bathymetry mapping. In this review, we present an overview of the current state of spaceborne-based remote sensing techniques used to estimate the topography and bathymetry of beaches, intertidal, and nearshore areas. We also provide some insights about the potential of these techniques when using data provided by new and future satellite missions.

Climate change and anthropogenic pressures are widely expected to exacerbate coastal hazards such as episodic coastal flooding. This study presents global-scale potential coastal overtopping estimates, which account for not only the effects of sea level rise and storm surge, but also for wave runup at exposed open coasts. Here we find that the globally aggregated annual overtopping hours have increased by almost 50% over the last two decades. A first-pass future assessment indicates that globally aggregated annual overtopping hours will accelerate faster than the global mean sea-level rise itself, with a clearly discernible increase occurring around mid-century regardless of climate scenario. Under RCP 8.5, the globally aggregated annual overtopping hours by the end of the 21st-century is projected to be up to 50 times larger compared to present-day. As sea level continues to rise, more regions around the world are projected to become exposed to coastal overtopping.

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Climatological changes occur globally but have local impacts. Increased storminess, sea level rise and more powerful waves are expected to batter the coastal zone more often and more intense. To understand climate change impacts, regional bathymetry information is paramount. A major issue is that the bathymetries are often non-existent or if they do exist, outdated. This sparsity can be overcome by space-borne satellite techniques to derive bathymetry. Sentinel-2 optical imagery is collected continuously and has a revisit-time around a few days depending on the orbital-position around the world. In this work, Sentinel-2 imagery derived wave patterns are extracted using a localized radon transform. A discrete fast-Fourier (DFT) procedure per direction in Radon space (sinogram) is then applied to derive wave spectra. Sentinel-2 time-lag between detector bands is employed to compute the spectral wave-phase shift and depth using the gravity wave linear dispersion. With this novel technique, regional bathymetries are derived at the test-site of Capbreton, France with an root mean squared (RMS)-error of 2.58 m and a correlation coefficient of 0.82 when compared to the survey for depths until 30 m. With the proposed method, the 10 m Sentinel-2 resolution is sufficient to adequately estimate bathymetries for a wave period of 6.5 s or greater. For shorter periods, the pixel resolution does not allow to detect a stable celerity. In addition to the wave-signature enhancement, the capability of the Radon Transform to augment Sentinel-2 20 m resolution imagery to 10 m is demonstrated, increasing the number of suitable bands for the depth inversion.

The Coastal Processes Research Group is an internationally recognised group of researchers, specialising in field studies of coastal processes. We aim to be a leading contributor to the international research community seeking to understand and predict the behaviour of coastal and estuarine systems in support of appropriate management of coastal resources and activities. Example Research Areas beach morphodynamics and nearshore sediment transport coastal erosion and storm impacts video monitoring of coastal systems coastal process modelling estuarine processes and evolution Paper details Citation

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High spatial resolution coastal Digital Elevation Models (DEMs) are crucial to assess coastal vulnerability and hazards such as beach erosion, sedimentation, or inundation due to storm surges and sea level rise. This paper explores the possibility to use high spatial-resolution Pleiades (pixel size = 0.7 m) stereoscopic satellite imagery to retrieve a DEM on sandy coastline. A 40-km coastal stretch in the Southwest of France was selected as a pilot-site to compare topographic measurements obtained from Pleiades satellite imagery, Real Time Kinematic GPS (RTK-GPS) and airborne Light Detection and Ranging System (LiDAR). The derived 2-m Pleiades DEM shows an overall good agreement with concurrent methods (RTK-GPS and LiDAR; correlation coefficient of 0.9), with a vertical Root Mean Squared Error (RMS error) that ranges from 0.35 to 0.48 m, after absolute coregistration to the LiDAR dataset. The largest errors (RMS error > 0.5 m) occurred in the steep dune faces, particularly at shadowed areas. This work shows that DEMs derived from sub-meter satellite imagery capture local morphological features (e.g., berm or dune shape) on a sandy beach, over a large spatial domain.Among topographic survey methods of suitable quality, those based on Global Navigation Satellite Systems (GPS), such as Real Time Kinematic GPS (RTK-GPS), have been used extensively to map and monitor coastal morphology [2]. Beach topographic surveys using RTK-GPS method can be performed either by walking and carrying a GPS receiver, or driving a mobile unit (e.g., quad bike). In both cases, the vertical precision is approximately 0.05 to 0.1 m, depending on the terrain relief [2]. This method typically requires an intense human effort, which normally is optimized by reducing the number of measurements to a limited number of cross-shore sections of the beach. Nevertheless, this limited spatial coverage results in an incomplete representation of topographic spatial patterns and evolving features, especially in the case of complex topographies such as steep and unconsolidated slopes. In such cases, interpolation methods are typically required, introducing additional uncertainty into the DEM [3].Remote sensing techniques, such as airborne LiDAR (Light Detection and Ranging) and Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV), emerge in this context as a solution to overcome the limited spatial coverage of the RTK-GPS method [4][5][6][7][8][9]. The use of airborne LiDAR to measure geomorphological changes in coastal areas is relatively new. This instrumentation acquires millions of x, y, z points per hour, with a horizontal spacing of typically 1 to 3 m. This high spatial resolution, together with the capacity to survey over large areas (from 10 1 to 10 5 m), allows overcoming traditional survey limitations found with RTK-GPS [2]. The vertical accuracy of LiDAR ranges from 0.05 m to 0.15 m [5], which is in the same order as RTK-GPS and appropriate for studying beach morphology. Nonetheless, LiDAR-based DEMs are costly [5,6], which limits the frequent (e.g., monthly or-post-...

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