Rip Currents on a Barred Beach

Ruju, Andrea; Caubilla, Pablo Higuera; Lara, Javier L.; Rodríguez, Ignacio Alfredo Rodríguez del Bosque; Coco, Giovanni

doi:10.9753/icce.v33.currents.38

Cited by 2 publications

(2 citation statements)

References 11 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…In this paper, spectra and correlation function was computed using Fast Fourier Transform (FFT). There are also other methods that could be used such as spectral analysis 2 nd order and wavelet analysis55565758, which would need to be considered and compared to the results presented in this paper.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Spectral responses of gravel beaches to tidal signals

Geng

Boufadel

2017

Sci Rep

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Tides have been recognized as a major driving forcing affecting coastal aquifer system, and deterministic modeling has been very effective in elucidating mechanisms caused by tides. However, such modeling does not lend itself to capture embedded information in the signal, and rather focuses on the primary processes. Here, using yearlong data sets measured at beaches in Alaska Prince William Sound, we performed spectral and correlation analyses to identify temporal behavior of pore-water pressure, temperature and salinity. We found that the response of the beach system was characterized by fluctuations of embedded diurnal, semidiurnal, terdiurnal and quarterdiurnal tidal components. Hydrodynamic dispersion of salinity and temperature, and the thermal conductivity greatly affected pore water signals. Spectral analyses revealed a faster dissipation of the semi-diurnal component with respect to the diurnal components. Correlation functions showed that salinity had a relatively short memory of the tidal signal when inland freshwater recharge was large. In contrast, the signature of the tidal signal on pore-water temperature persisted for longer times, up to a week. We also found that heterogeneity greatly affected beach response. The response varied from a simple linear mapping in the frequency domain to complete modulation and masking of the input frequencies.

show abstract

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Spectral responses of gravel beaches to tidal signals

Geng

Boufadel

2017

Sci Rep

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Although some researchers have also found secondary circulations in their numerical results (Farahani et al, 2012;Haas et al, 2003;Ruju et al, 2012;Yu and Slinn, 2003), they did not do systematical study on these circulations. In the present study, a series of numerical experiments are conducted with the Combined Refraction/ Diffraction Model (REF/DIF 1) and the SHORECIRC model to investigate the dynamics of the secondary circulations more specifically, and study the effects of secondary circulations on rip currents and the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 84%

Numerical study of the secondary circulations in rip current systems

Guan

2015

J. Ocean Univ. China

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

To investigate the mechanism of secondary circulations in rip current systems, and to explore the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity, a series of numerical experiments is performed using coupled nearshore wave model and circulation model. In these experiments, the rip currents and secondary circulations generated above barred beaches with rip channels are simulated. A comparison experiment is conducted to investigate the formation and hydrodynamics of the secondary circulations. Model results indicate that the secondary circulations consist of alongshore flows driven by wave set-up near the shoreline, part of the feeder currents driven by the wave set-up over the bars, and onshore flows at the end of the rip channel driven by wave breaking and convection. The existence of the secondary circulation barely affects the rip current, but narrows and intensifies the feeder currents. Three groups of experiments of varying incident wave conditions are performed to investigate the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity. The velocity of the alongshore flow of the secondary circulation is sensitive to the variation of the incident wave height and water depth. It is also found that the alongshore flow intensity is in direct proportion to the alongshore variation of the wave height gradient between the bars and the shoreline.

show abstract

Rip Currents on a Barred Beach

Cited by 2 publications

References 11 publications

Spectral responses of gravel beaches to tidal signals

Spectral responses of gravel beaches to tidal signals

Numerical study of the secondary circulations in rip current systems

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About