Returning to Climb after Epiphyseal Finger Stress Fracture

Sportverletz Sportschaden

2022

Background Although climbing is an increasingly popular sport, there is a lack of scientific evaluation of suitable training methods for climbers, especially with a view to prevention and rehabilitation. A specific rehabilitation program, Adjunct Compensatory Training (ACT), has recently been presented, but it has not been evaluated scientifically to date. Objective To investigate the effects of Adjunct Compensatory Training on climbing-specific overstrain syndromes of the shoulder. Methods Twenty active boulderers and climbers with an average age of 28.9 (± 7.4) years performed a guided shoulder program of six specific exercises from the ACT program over a period of four weeks. They were examined before and after the intervention. Pre- and post-interventional measurements included the Constant-Murley Score, the QuickDASH Score and the measurement of shoulder ROM (range of motion). Results The Constant-Murley Score increased from 82 (± 10.0) to 104.1 (± 8.2) at follow-up (p < 0.001). The VAS value for bouldering and climbing decreased from 5.25 (± 1.4) before to 2.4 (± 1.6) after the intervention (p < 0.001). Shoulder flexion increased from 167.5 (± 14.9) to 173.1 (± 7.7) after the intervention (p < 0.05), abduction from 172.5 (± 14.9) to 179.6 (± 5.9) (n. s.), external rotation from neutral zero position from 77.6 (± 16.8) to 86.3 ± (8.3) (p < 0.05). Feasibility and acceptance of the intervention were good. Ninety-five percent of the participants continued to exercise, and 100 percent recommended the program to others. Conclusion The ACT led to an improvement in pain, activities of daily living, range of motion and strength in boulderers and climbers with overstrain symptoms of the shoulder. It is also classified as a realistically feasible workout. The extent to which this effect will continue, and whether or not the program can prevent injuries, remains to be seen. It can only be presumed that regular exercises prevent shoulder injuries in the climbing population.

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…As climbing becomes more popular, it is essential for medical professionals and physical therapists to better understand and treat climbing-related injuries [6]. Little work was done onto prevention and rehabilitation after overstrain injuries yet [11,12].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Evaluation of a four-week Adjunct Compensatory Training for the treatment of climbing-specific overstrain syndromes of the shoulder

Grohnert

Bonato

Sportverletz Sportschaden

2022

“…Dependent on injury severity, a resting splint may be used for the initial 2-to 3-wk period, with removal to complete active and passive range of motion exercises (4,25). Prior to commencement of climbing specific rehabilitation, radiological evidence of healing, full pain-free range of motion and clearance from the respective health care professional is advised (44).…”

Section: Managementmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…All patients were treated conservatively between 3 and 12 months, mean time for radiological union of a fracture was 35 weeks and recovery for a symptomatic sprain was on average 24 weeks. Case reports have tended to state guidance rather than specific detail; recently Meyers et al (44) presented a return-to-sport protocol for youth climbers who had sustained an epiphyseal fracture of the finger. While broadly supporting the authors rehabilitation recommendations; using a percentage reduction model of normal climbing time to calculate load for each stage of rehabilitation is imprecise.…”

Section: Managementmentioning

confidence: 99%

Primary Periphyseal Stress Injuries of the Fingers in Adolescent Climbers: A Critical Review

Jones

Johnson

et al. 2022

Curr Sports Med Rep

The worldwide rise in popularity of climbing and development of climbing as a competitive sport is reflected by its debut at the 2021 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo. Digital primary periphyseal stress injuries in adolescent climbers may pose a significant risk to long-term skeletal health. The aim of this article is to critically review research on the diagnosis and management of primary periphyseal stress injuries of the fingers in adolescent climbers. We adopted a systematic approach to searching for relevant literature. Articles were identified after searches of the following electronic databases: Discover, Academic Search Complete, PubMed, Embase, SPORTDiscus, and ScienceDirect. Conclusive evidence suggests digital primary periphyseal stress injuries are a consequence of repetitive microtrauma. Pain reported by adolescent climbers on the dorsal aspect of the proximal interphalangeal joint should be investigated promptly to avoid serious negative consequences. Clinicians should be aware of the efficacy of imaging techniques to inform a clinical diagnosis. A conservative management approach is preferred but in rare cases surgical intervention may be necessary. A diagnostic and therapeutic algorithm for digital primary periphyseal stress injuries is presented.

“…38,50 Since the first reported case in 1997, >100 of these fractures have been cited in the literature. 1,7,8,13,14,26,34,38 Recent reports show an increase in incidence. 38,42 This trend is expected to continue with sport climbing’s inclusion into the Olympic program and the ongoing increase in training intensity and load in elite and recreational athletes.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Evaluation of a Diagnostic-Therapeutic Algorithm for Finger Epiphyseal Growth Plate Stress Injuries in Adolescent Climbers

Flohé

et al. 2021

Am J Sports Med

Background: Finger epiphyseal growth plate stress injuries are the most frequent sport-specific injuries in adolescent climbers. Definitive diagnostic and therapeutic guidelines are pending. Purpose: To evaluate a diagnostic-therapeutic algorithm for finger epiphyseal growth plate stress injuries in adolescent climbers. Study Design: Case series; Level of evidence, 4. Methods: On the basis of previous work on diagnostics and treatment of finger epiphyseal growth plate stress injuries (EGPIs) in adolescent climbers, we developed a new algorithm for management of these injuries, which was implemented into our clinical work. During a 4-year period, we performed a prospective multicentered analysis of our patients treated according to the algorithm. Climbing-specific background was evaluated (training years, climbing level, training methods, etc); injuries were analyzed (Salter-Harris classification and UIAA MedCom score [Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme]); and treatments and outcomes were recorded: union, time to return to climbing, VAS (visual analog scale), QuickDASH (shortened version of the Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder, and Hand), and a climbing-specific outcome score. Results: Within the observation period, 27 patients with 37 independent EGPIs of the fingers were recorded (mean ± SD age, 14.7 ± 1.5 years; 19 male, 8 female; 66.7% competitive athletes). Regarding maturity at time of injury, the mean age at injury did not differ by sex. Average UIAA climbing level was 9.5 ± 0.8, with 6 ± 4.6 years of climbing or bouldering and 14 ± 9.1 hours of weekly climbing-specific training volume. Among the 37 injuries there were 7 epiphyseal strains, 2 Salter-Harris I fractures, and 28 Salter-Harris III fractures (UIAA 1, n = 7; UIAA 2, n = 30). Thirty-six injuries developed through repetitive stress, while 1 had an acute onset. Twenty-eight injuries were treated nonoperatively and 9 surgically. Osseous union was achieved in all cases, and there were no recurrences. The time between the start of treatment and the return to sport was 40.1 ± 65.2 days. The climbing-specific outcome score was excellent in 34 patients and good in 3. VAS decreased from 2.3 ± 0.6 to 0.1 ± 0.4 after treatment and QuickDASH from 48.1 ± 7.9 to 28.5 ± 3.3. Conclusion: The proposed management algorithm led to osseous union in all cases. Effective treatment of EGPIs of the fingers may include nonsurgical or surgical intervention, depending on the time course and severity of the injury. Further awareness of EGPI is important to help prevent these injuries in the future.