Quantifying the appearance of jackets with adhesive interlinings

Self Cite

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to clarify changes in the appearance of a ready-made tailored jacket due to changes in the ease allowance and determine suitable ranges of the ease allowance for the jacket. Design/methodology/approach Images were taken of the front, side and back of a jacket placed on a dress form with varying sizes of bust, waist and hips. The authors observed the appearance of the jacket for the different sizes of the dress form. A sensory evaluation of the suitable range of ease allowance for the jacket involving 20 female Japanese university students was carried out. The evaluation items were the fit, beauty, comfort and purchase intention. Findings The jacket appearance was lowly evaluated if there were many wrinkles and highly evaluated if there was a curved silhouette. Changes in bust, sleeve and waist parts affected the evaluation of the suitable ranges of ease allowance. The suitable range of ease allowance varied depending on the jacket part and viewing direction. In terms of fit, the suitable ease allowance ranged between 5.6 and 9.9 percent for the bust, between 7.6 and 17.8 percent for the waist and between 2.6 and 8.6 percent for the hips. The suitable ranges were determined considering the wrinkling and silhouette in these parts. Originality/value Suitable ranges of ease allowance of a tailored jacket were determined by evaluating a jacket for 11 dress form sizes of the bust, nine sizes of the waist and seven sizes of the hips, at 2 cm intervals. The obtained suitable ease allowance ranges are useful to manufacturers in terms of garment design and to customers in terms of selecting suitable garments.

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Effect of the difference between body dimensions and jacket measurements on the appearance of a ready-made tailored jacket

Monobe

Kim

Takatera

2017

Self Cite

“…The determination of sensory descriptors is crucial for characterizing products (Kim et al , 2016). A procedure is proposed as follows (Xue et al , 2014): The exhaustive expressions of all the trainees are collected without considering whether they make sense or not.…”

Section: Sensory Evaluation Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Jeans knowledge base development based on sensory evaluation technology for customers’ personalized recommendation

Zhang

Zeng

Liu

et al. 2018

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to set up a women’s jeans knowledge base between consumer profile and jeans profile. The result of study could be applied to jeans recommendation system for a special consumer. Design/methodology/approach Women’s jeans are chosen as research objects. The sensory evaluation technology and intelligent data fusion methods are applied in this research. Findings Eight pairs of words were selected to set up normalized sensory evaluation criteria in the study for describing both consumers’ expectations and products. The relation between consumer profile and jeans profile could be quantified according to the principle of sensory evaluation technology. Practical implications Four experiments are designed for setting up this knowledge base by sensory evaluation technology, and set up the women’s jeans knowledge base by intelligent data fusion methods. Originality/value The theory of sensory evaluation technology is applied for building women’s jeans knowledge base that can be used for consumer-oriented intelligent garment recommendation system.

“…Depending on allowance for ease, people’s judgments of the appearance of garments were found to vary in clothing selection (Ashdown and Delong, 1995; Monobe et al , 2017). For evaluation of fit in appearance, wrinkle and waist constrictions are considered important criteria (Kim et al , 2013, 2016).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Suitable bustline position in designing a well-fitting and attractive garment

Kim

Sakaguchi

Takatera

2019

Self Cite

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to investigate a suitable position for the bustline of the upper garment and its effect on appearance for various body types. It also provides an appropriate balance between the bustline and the waistline. Design/methodology/approach The authors manufactured five upper garments using a patternmaking method that allows for the distance between the side neck point and the bust point (BL) to be altered. The appearance of the garments on four dress forms with different values of BL was compared using Scheffe’s paired comparison (Nakaya’s variation) of seven scales. In total, 20 Japanese subjects in their 20s evaluated the garments. Six evaluation items – wrinkle amount, fit, attractiveness, beauty, youthfulness and slimness – were used. The vertical ratios of the garments on each dress form, a (projected distance between the horizontal line of the shoulder points and the bustline) and b (projected distance between the bustline and waistline), were measured using 3D scanned data. The relationship between the ratios and the results of the sensory test was investigated. Findings It was found that changing the values of the BL influenced the appearance of the upper garments. The upper garment for which the BL was adjusted according to dress form was determined to not be well-fitting, attractive and beautiful. The garment with an a:b ratio of close to 1 was evaluated as beautiful, attractive and better fitting than all others. Originality/value The results of this study will help designers and patternmakers create more beautiful, attractive and fitting upper garments.