Quality and inequality: creating value worlds with Third Wave coffee

Abstract

Based on a study of the burgeoning high-end (‘Third Wave’) coffee market in the USA and on research conducted with Maya farmers in Guatemala, this article examines how economic gains are extracted by translating values across symbolic and material worlds. Drawing on anthropological understandings of value and the analytic tools of convention theory, I show how roasters, baristas and marketers have developed a new lexicon of quality for coffee, one tied to narratives of provenance and exclusivity that creates much of the value added in the Third Wave market. This disadvantages smallholding coffee farmers who are heavily invested in land and the material means of production but who lack the social and cultural capital needed to extract surplus symbolic value from their crops. In this unintentional way, the quest for artisanal quality in the coffee market perpetuates classic dependency patterns of global capital accumulation across these value worlds.

Analytic Framework to Determine Proximity in Relationship Coffee Models

“…In so‐called cuppings trained experts assess the cup quality on a scale up to 100 points. Specialty coffee has to score more than 80 points, and third wave coffee generally even higher (Fischer ). Relationship coffee models might include some intermediary parties as long as there is a direct relationship between roaster and producer (Vicol et al , see definition above).…”

“…However, the initial direct traders are struggling with other coffee companies’ efforts to use the term mainly for marketing but not acting after the core principles of direct trade (MacGregor et al ). Fischer () studied value creation in the third wave specialty coffee market and concluded that coffee producers often lack the social capital to benefit substantially from the higher value of top‐quality specialty coffee. In a study of a tasting encounter between Danish coffee roasters and Colombian coffee exporters, Holland et al () observed that coffee quality is not given nor static but rather constructed in negotiations between the actors.…”

“…The growing third wave coffee shops are emphasising their specific blending and roasting methods and organoleptic qualities of the cup instead of highlighting the coffee origin and local production. Thus, the benefits of increased consumer awareness and the resulting willingness to pay a higher price go rather to the roasters/coffee shop owners than to producers (Fischer ). Boaventura et al () argue that closer collaboration of producers with upstream value chain actors could conquer this difficulty.…”

Aktivisme Dan Kapitalisme Digital: Konstruksi Branding Warung Kopi Melalui Instagram

“…Selain itu, wacana third wave coffeee yang berkembang di Indonesia sejak dekade 2010-an melahirkan tren aktivisme melalui produksi dan konsumsi kopi. Third wave coffee adalah budaya menikmati kopi yang menitik beratkan pada konstruksi otentisitas kopi dan proses pengelolaan serta penyajian secara artisan, yang tidak mengutamakan kuantitas produksi (Fischer, 2017;Manzo, 2014). Dalam tren ini, penikmat kopi merasa perlu untuk mengenal asal muasal biji kopi yang mereka seduh dan memahami proses pengelolaan hingga penyajian yang berkelas (Knox, 2016).…”

Collective Action Milieus and Governance Structures of Protected Geographical Indications for Coffee in Colombia, Thailand and Indonesia

“…Earlier, Daviron and Ponte (2005) emphasized how value was increasingly embedded in the symbolic quality and in-person services (intangible quality attributes) of coffee. This implies that producers need to assume greater control of these immaterial or in-person means of quality production rather than selling a highly commercialized and standardized product (Samper et al 2017) and this has manifested in various attempts at product differentiation, some of which are producer-driven (Fischer 2017;Jaffee 2007). These attempts include voluntary sustainability and quality standards such as Fairtrade, Organic, and Rainforest Alliance, but also include Geographical Indications (GIs) and producer involvement in "Cup of Excellence" events (Neilson et al 2018;Quiñones-Ruiz et al 2015;Teuber 2010).…”