Professional-Grade TCA-Lactic Acid Chemical Peel: Elucidating Mode of Action to Treat Photoaging and Hyperpigmentation

Abstract

Chemical peeling is usually performed by dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and aestheticians for the treatment of photo-aged skin, dyspigmented skin, skin prone to acne eruption, and pre-cancerous skin lesions, etc. In this research paper, we report our investigative findings to understand the mode of action of a commercial professional chemical peel to treat hyperpigmented and photoaged skin. In the in-vitro experiments, we found that the peel inhibits enzymes that are responsible for degradation of collagen and elastin, and the production of melanin pigment. It was surprising to observe that trichloroacetic acid (TCA), which is considered a workhorse of chemical peels for its cauterant action, could synergistically promote the inhibitory action of lactic acid. The rationale behind this synergistic effect could be the conformational change in TCA from linear structure to ring-like structure, which was elucidated through sequential docking using Rosetta software. The in-vitro results on collagen and elastin were corroborated by up-regulation of COL1A, COL3B, fibronectin, and elastin gene expression from 3D human skin equivalents treated with the peel. The findings were further validated through ex-vivo testing on human skin biopsy. The peel significantly inhibits the production of total melanin, and ameliorates photo-damage that was evident through repair of the collagen in the skin exposed to a biological effective dose of UV daily light (6 J/cm2). These research findings have implications for product developers and users (dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and aestheticians) in improving safety and efficacy of chemical peels/peeling.

Skin Aging: Implications of UV Radiation, Reactive Oxygen Species and Natural Antioxidants

“…It showed that the peels were able to inhibit tyrosinase, collagenase and elastase activity in in-vitro experiments. Further, an increased expression of COL1A, COL3B, elastin and fibronectin genes were shown to occur when peel solution was used for 3D human skin model [115]. Another study compared the efficacy of AHA-ReT cream (double conjugated retinoid cream) with 1% retinol cream and 0.025% Tretinoin cream for treatment of photoaging.…”

A review of the catalytic conversion of glycerol to lactic acid in the presence of aqueous base

“…chemicals such as pyruvic acid, 5 acrylic acid, 6 propionic acid, 7,8 acetaldehyde, 9 alanine, 10 and glycerol carbonate. 11 It has also been used to remove hyperpigmentation 12 and to extend the shelf life of foods. 13 LA can be produced on a large scale starting with glycerol, which is a waste product of the continuously increasing biodiesel production through biomass conversion.…”

“…Lactic acid (2-hydroxypropanoic acid, LA) is an extensively used chemical in a wide range of industrial applications including foods, 1 drugs, 2 cosmetics, 3 medication, 4 and the production of chemicals such as pyruvic acid, 5 acrylic acid, 6 propionic acid, 7,8 acetaldehyde, 9 alanine, 10 and glycerol carbonate. 11 It has also been used to remove hyperpigmentation 12 and to extend the shelf life of foods. 13 LA can be produced on a large scale starting with glycerol, which is a waste product of the continuously increasing biodiesel production through biomass conversion.…”

Demystifying the mechanism of action of professional facial peeling: In‐vivo visualization and quantification of changes in inflammation, melanin and collagen using Vivascope® and ConfoScan ®

“…TCA has keratocoagulant action and is therefore considered a gold standard peeling agent by some dermatologists. These two active ingredients work synergistically when used together, and because of this synergy, a lower dose of TCA is needed 4 …”

“…These two active ingredients work synergistically when used together, and because of this synergy, a lower dose of TCA is needed. 4 There are some studies showing the effect of chemical peeling on melanin, collagen, elastin, epidermal and dermis thickness. 4 However, these studies either used human skin explants for the chemical peel treatment 4 or used the classical invasive punch biopsy and histological staining approach to observe changes.…”