Pre‐clinical formulation screening, development and stability of acetyl aspartic acid for cosmetic application

Abstract

Synopsis Background Acetyl aspartic acid (A‐A‐A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap). Using an in silico and in vitro approach, A‐A‐A was found increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal expression of MMP making this compound a potential active ingredient for cosmetic application. Objectives To determine the conditions to successfully formulate A‐A‐A for skin delivery investigation and in vivo clinical assessment by the systematic approach of pre‐formulation testing of the active, screening of formulation type on active delivery and stability evaluations. Methods Analytical evaluation of A‐A‐A was undertaken using LC‐MS ESI method. Formulation stability was evaluated using Brookfield viscometer, pH analysis, optical microscopy and organoleptic evaluations. Results Analytical evaluation of A‐A‐A shows that pH significantly impacts chemical stability of the molecule. A‐A‐A containing formulae show minimal differences to vehicle product throughout the testing. Conclusion A‐A‐A is an active that can be successfully formulated in a cosmetic o/w emulsion within defined pH considerations.

Chemical Stability Analysis of Hair Cleansing Conditioners under High-Heat Conditions Experienced during Hair Styling Processes

“…Analytical methods, including HPLC and mass spectrometry, have been used with increasing frequency in the field of cosmetics to assess the chemical nature of product formulation and potential degradation products [24,25]. These approaches can be used to achieve a high degree of specificity and sensitivity lacking in less sophisticated methods.…”

In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin‐1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness

“…In this double‐blind vehicle‐controlled study, two products were tested. Both products were based on an O/W emulsion only further characterized by the addition of A‐A‐A (1%) in the active product, as described previously .…”

Developing a green and efficient biosynthesis system for l-aspartic acid by addressing enzyme imbalance and catalysis-extraction circulation processes

“…l -aspartic acid is widely used in various industries due to its versatility and diverse applications. It serves as a precursor for drug synthesis and pharmaceutical intermediates, 1 is used in skincare and cosmetic products for moisturizing and anti-aging effects, 2 acts as a natural sweetener and flavor enhancer in the food and beverage industry, 3 and is used to synthesize polyaspartic acid, which is employed in fields such as oilfield wastewater treatment, boiler water treatment, and seawater desalination. 4,5 The broad range of uses for l -aspartic acid in flavor enhancement, pharmaceutical synthesis, and material science underscores its significance in numerous industries.…”