By providing a clear view on the signs of ageing really matter to Russian women who are aged 40 years old and above, this research offers key information for the development of relevant anti-ageing solutions specifically targeting their needs and their desire to achieve younger-looking skin.

Although the mechanism of action is not completely understood, we believe the benefits of SS are derived from its intrinsic stratum corneum exfoliation effects. All three studies demonstrate the significant anti-aging effects of SS that are especially suitable for subjects with sensitive skin.

The aim of this work was to investigate the effects of 1,18-octadecen-9-dioic acid (dioic acid) and a Rumex occidentalis extract complex for their skin-lightening action in an Indian population. Prior to the clinical study, the efficacy of dioic as an inhibitor of melanogenesis was confirmed on dark-pigmented human melanocytes. As part of a 12-week vehicle-controlled clinical study, the skin-lightening effect of a test product containing 1% dioic acid, 2% of a Rumex occidentalis extract and sunscreens (SPF 15) was assessed on the facial skin of 71 Indian female volunteers. Change in skin colour was monitored by (A) Chroma Meter® measurement (L*, a*, b*) and Individual Typology Angle (ITA˚) calculation and (B) Visual grading of standardized photographs by a dermatologist. Colorimetric measurements on volunteers' cheeks showed a significant increase of L* and ITA˚ compared to baseline after 4, 8 and 12 weeks of test product application. For both L* and ITA˚ measurements, changes were significantly different than the SPF 15-containing vehicle at weeks 4 and 12. These results were confirmed by the dermatological visual grading. The overall skin-lightening action of the test product was beyond the one observed with the SPF 15 vehicle. These findings show that a dioic acid and Rumex occidentalis complex deliver a significant skin-lightening effect on facial skin in an Indian population.

Synopsis Objective Acetyl aspartic acid (A‐A‐A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding Cmap analysis. We found that A‐A‐A increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal matrix metalloprotease (MMP) expression and relieved fibroblast stiffness through reduction of the fibroblast stiffness marker F‐actin. Dermal absorption studies showed successful delivery to both the epidermal and dermal regions, and in‐use trial demonstrated that 1% A‐A‐A was well tolerated. In this study, the aim was to investigate whether A‐A‐A could stimulate the synthesis of extracellular matrix supporting proteins in vivo and thereby improving the viscoelastic properties of human skin by conducting a dual histological and biophysical clinical study. Method Two separate double‐blind vehicle‐controlled in vivo studies were conducted using a 1% A‐A‐A containing oil‐in‐water (o/w) emulsion. In the histological study, 16 female volunteers (>55 years of age) exhibiting photodamaged skin on their forearm were included, investigating the effect of a 12‐day treatment of A‐A‐A on collagen IV (COLIV) and fibrillin‐1. In a subsequent pilot study, 0.1% retinol was used for comparison to A‐A‐A (1%). The biomechanical properties of the skin were assessed in a panel of 16 women (>45 years of age) using the standard Cutometer MPA580 after topical application of the test products for 28 days. The use of multiple suction enabled the assessment of F4, an area parameter specifically representing skin firmness. Results Twelve‐day topical application of 1% A‐A‐A significantly increased COLIV and fibrillin with 13% and 6%, respectively, compared to vehicle. 1% A‐A‐A and 0.1% retinol were found to significantly reduce F4 after 28 days of treatment by 15.8% and 14.7%, respectively, in the pilot Cutometer study. No significant difference was found between retinol and A‐A‐A. However, only A‐A‐A exhibited a significant effect vs. vehicle on skin firmness which indicated the incremental benefit of A‐A‐A as a skin‐firming active ingredient. Conclusion In this study, we showed the in vivo efficacy of 1% A‐A‐A both on a protein level (fibrillin and collagen IV) and on a clinical end point, specifically skin firmness, providing proof that, acetyl aspartic acid has a strong potential as an anti‐ageing ‘cosmeceutical’ ingredient answering the needs of our key consumer base.

Synopsis Objective The need for effective ‘anti‐ageing’ treatments, in particular for the management of photodamaged skin, prompted us to develop a novel method to identify new active ingredients. The model utilized a gene profiling study with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap) to identify novel anti‐ageing compounds using all‐trans retinoic acid (RA) as the lead compound due to its beneficial effect on photodamaged skin and skin firmness. Method A vehicle‐controlled clinical study including nine healthy Caucasian female volunteers aged 57 ± 7 (mean ± SEM) exhibiting photodamage on their lower outer forearms was conducted. The volunteers applied RA once daily on photodamaged skin for 7 days, and biopsies were subjected to Affymetrix gene arrays. Connectivity mapping (Cmap), examining hundreds of gene expression profiles, was run on the gene signature of RA‐treated photodamaged skin to identify small bioactive compounds. Results Affymetrix gene array identified 19 genes significantly differentially expressed after application of RA. Corresponding Cmap analysis revealed six natural bioactive compounds including N‐acetyl aspartic acid (A‐A‐A) showing similar activity to RA on the differentially expressed genes identified. Conclusion Based on RA mimicking gene array activity, potential use within skincare on molecular size, safety assessment and sourcing, we identified the natural amino acid, A‐A‐A as a potential candidate to treat ageing skin.