Optimization of Nanoemulsion Formula from Asiaticoside Active Compounds Using Design Expert ® 13

Abstract

Asiaticoside is a triterpenoid glycoside compound obtained from gotu kola (Centella asiatica L. Urban) which can be used for produce collagen in the skin so that the skin will feel more supple, elastic, tighten the skin, make the skin texture smoother and scavenge free radicals. This asiatica can be used as an ingredient for wound healing and reducing redness of acne scars (Nagai et al., 2018). However, asiaticoside has poor absorption and excellent solubility (Ozdemir et al., 2016). Thus, nanoemulsion preparations will improve the absorption of asiaticoside which bad because Nanoemulsions can improve the properties of active compounds that have poor absorption with very small particle sizes ranging from 1-100 nm , aiming to increase the permeability of active substances and improve absorption (Zhang et al ., 2016). Nanoemulsion preparations are very attractive when applied in cosmetic products. In addition to its good effectiveness, side effects such as skin irritation and low toxicity, nanoemulsions can also be applied easily through the skin and mucous membranes (Yang et al., 2019). Optimization can be interpreted as an approach to get the best combination of a product or process characteristics under certain conditions, it can also be interpreted as choosing the best elements or materials from several available options (Amalia et al., 2017). In determining the optimal formula using a design expert 13 who can help design variations of the formula in the preformulation and analysis of experimental results (Singh et al., 2007).