Onshore sandbar migration at Tairua Beach (New Zealand): Numerical simulations and field measurements

Maanen, Barend van; Ruiter, Peter J. de; Coco, Giovanni; Bryan, Karin R.; Ruessink, Gerben

doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2008.05.007

Cited by 30 publications

(13 citation statements)

References 15 publications

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“…More importantly, the sediment transport mode related to wave asymmetry was not included. This process is known to further enhance onshore sediment transport [e.g., Hoefel and Elgar , ; Van Maanen et al , ; Dubarbier et al , ; Fernández‐Mora et al , ; Ruessink et al , ], although to a smaller extent compared to wave skewness. However, while successfully simulating the LBT‐RBB‐TBR‐LTT sequence, including wave asymmetry sometimes resulted in numerical instabilities in shallow water when reaching the LTT state (not shown).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Mechanisms controlling the complete accretionary beach state sequence

Dubarbier

Castelle

Ruessink

et al. 2017

Geophysical Research Letters

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Accretionary downstate beach sequence is a key element of observed nearshore morphological variability along sandy coasts. We present and analyze the first numerical simulation of such a sequence using a process‐based morphodynamic model that solves the coupling between waves, depth‐integrated currents, and sediment transport. The simulation evolves from an alongshore uniform barred beach (storm profile) to an almost featureless shore‐welded terrace (summer profile) through the highly alongshore variable detached crescentic bar and transverse bar/rip system states. A global analysis of the full sequence allows determining the varying contributions of the different hydro‐sedimentary processes. Sediment transport driven by orbital velocity skewness is critical to the overall onshore sandbar migration, while gravitational downslope sediment transport acts as a damping term inhibiting further channel growth enforced by rip flow circulation. Accurate morphological diffusivity and inclusion of orbital velocity skewness opens new perspectives in terms of morphodynamic modeling of real beaches.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Mechanisms controlling the complete accretionary beach state sequence

Dubarbier

Castelle

Ruessink

et al. 2017

Geophysical Research Letters

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“…Yet, they struggle to simulate the onshore migration of a shallow sandbar (e.g. Van Maanen et al, 2008) which can be attributed to the absence of acceleration-skewness induced transport (Hoefel and Elgar, 2003;Kuriyama, 2012). It is therefore hypothesized that acceleration-skewness induced sediment transport is crucial to onshore sandbar migration and that models ignoring this process succeed in simulating onshore bar migration through an overestimation of the velocity-skewness induced sediment transport rates.…”

Section: Sediment Transportmentioning

confidence: 99%

Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior

Dubarbier

Castelle

Marieu

et al. 2015

Coastal Engineering

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“…[], and Van Maanen et al . [] investigated the alongshore‐averaged sandbar cross‐shore migration. Reniers et al .…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Recent sandbar studies using numerical models and long-term data sets obtained using video techniques [Lippmann and Holman, 1990;Pape et al, 2007;Price and Ruessink, 2011] have concentrated on cross-shore movement of sandbars and the processes controlling the emergence of patterns. For example, Plant et al [1999], Ruessink et al [2007b], Pape et al [2007], and Van Maanen et al [2008] investigated the alongshore-averaged sandbar cross-shore migration. Reniers et al [2004], Plant et al [2006], Splinter et al [2011], and de Schipper et al [2014 focused on the development of complex three-dimensional morphological features along the sandbar.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Most costly, process-based models attempt to include increasingly detailed (micro-scale) processes of a complex system expecting that the combination will correctly reproduce the macro-scale morphodynamics. This approach allows an in-depth description and simulation of the system [Ruessink et al, 2007b;Van Maanen et al, 2008;Castelle and Ruessink, 2011;Daly et al, 2014]. Faster, data-driven models are based on correlative properties between external conditions and observations.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Nearshore sandbar rotation at single‐barred embayed beaches

et al. 2016

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The location of a shore‐parallel nearshore sandbar derived from 7 years of video imagery data at the single‐barred embayed Tairua Beach (NZ) is investigated to assess the contribution of barline rotation to the overall morphodynamics of sandbars in embayed environments and to characterize the process of rotation in relation to external conditions. Rotation induces cross‐shore barline variations at the embayment extremities on the order of magnitude of those induced by alongshore uniform cross‐shore migration of the bar. Two semiempirical models have been developed to relate the barline cross‐shore migration and rotation to external wave forcing conditions. The rotation model is directly derived from the cross‐shore migration model. Therefore, its formulation advocates for a primary role of cross‐shore processes in the rotation of sandbars at embayed beaches. The orientation evolves toward an equilibrium angle directly related to the alongshore wave energy gradient due to two different mechanisms. Either the bar extremities migrate in opposite directions with no overall cross‐shore bar migration (pivotal rotation) or the rotation relates to an overall migration of the barline which is not uniform along the beach (migration‐driven rotation). Migration and rotation characteristic response times are similar, ranging from 10 to 30 days for mild and energetic wave conditions and above 200 days during very calm conditions or when the bar is located far offshore.

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Onshore sandbar migration at Tairua Beach (New Zealand): Numerical simulations and field measurements

Cited by 30 publications

References 15 publications

Mechanisms controlling the complete accretionary beach state sequence

Mechanisms controlling the complete accretionary beach state sequence

Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior

Nearshore sandbar rotation at single‐barred embayed beaches

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