Non-invasive in vivo methods for investigation of the skin barrier physical properties

Darlenski, Razvigor; Sassning, S.; Tsankov, Nikolaï; Fluhr, Joachim W.

doi:10.1016/j.ejpb.2008.11.013

Cited by 166 publications

(171 citation statements)

References 107 publications

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“…The significant increase in skin humidity proves that stratum corneum hydration depends both on the ability to bind and the ability to retain water (30). As TEWL refers to the total amount of water loss through the skin, lower TEWL values indicate an intact epidermal barrier function that correlates with the normal hydration state of the stratum corneum (25,27).…”

Section: And Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…TEWL measurements can provide a good insight into the efficacy of a new product. Measurement of TEWL is one of the most widely used biophysical methods because it correlates directly with the skin barrier dysfunction and has applications in cosmetology, pharmaceutical, clinical, toxicological, and various other studies (25,(27)(28)(29). Tewameter is a well-known device capable of measuring TEWL accurately by using the open-chamber method (28).…”

Section: And Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Design and in vivo evaluation of emulgel formulations including green tea extract and rose oil

2013

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Plant materials with antioxidant and skin anti-aging properties have been widely used in cosmetic products for many years. Among them Camellia sinensis (L.) (green tea) extract is known for its biological and pharmacological activities attributed mainly to green tea catechins, which are polyphenolic compounds present in unfermented dried leaves of C. sinensis (1, 2). A short heating procedure of green tea leaves led to inactivation of polyphenol oxidase, thereby preserving the antioxidant activities of polyphenols. The total content of polyphenols in tea leaves varies from approximately 20 to 40 %, depending on the subspecies of the plant and geographic location (3). The four major polyphenolic catechins present in green tea leaves are (2) Prevention of skin aging and its treatment is an emerging field for development of new formulations in cosmetics. Accordingly, plant extracts with antioxidant properties are beneficial cosmetic ingredients for this purpose. This study was aimed at developing a stable and easily manufactured emulgel including green tea extract and rose oil that is effective on the barrier function and hydration of the skin. An emulgel formulation containing 20 % green tea extract and 5 % rose oil was designed as a result of pre-formulation studies. Physicochemical characterization, in vitro stability studies, in vivo water content of the stratum corneum and transepidermal water loss studies were carried out afterwards. In vivo studies on ten female subjects were evaluated by using non-invasive skin bioengineering techniques. Finally, a cosmetically acceptable, stable and effective emulgel formulation for skin barrier function with good hydrating properties was obtained for skin hydration, protection and anti-aging purposes.

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Section: And Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: And Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Design and in vivo evaluation of emulgel formulations including green tea extract and rose oil

2013

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“…However, capacitance measurement is also indicative of an increase or decrease in water within the stratum corneum. This electrical property of the skin provides information that allows hydration levels to be calculated (Fluhr et al, 1999;Dykes, 2002;Heinrich et al, 2003;Darlenski et al, 2009;Gonçalves, Maia Campos, 2009a;Byrne, 2010;Sotoodian, Maibach, 2012).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Use of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extracts from Brazilian Caatinga as an alternative of natural moisturizer in cosmetic formulations

Damasceno¹,

Silva²,

Fernandes³

et al. 2016

Braz. J. Pharm. Sci.

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The aim of this work was the obtainment of Opuntia fícus-indica (L.) Mill extract for the development of cosmetic formulations and in vivo evaluation of its moisturizing effects. The formulations were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. Organoleptic characteristics, pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. The evaluation of moisturizing efficacy of the emulsions formulated with 3.0% of Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 containing 1.0 and 3.0% of O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract (EHG001) was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer®) and the transepidermal water loss -TEWL evaluation (Tewameter®). The emulsions formulated were stable, exhibiting pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior. The results of evaluation of moisturizing efficacy showed increased skin hydration after five hours by mainly increasing the skin barrier effect. The formulations containing 1.0 and 3.0% of EHG001 enhanced the skin barrier effect by reducing TEWL up to four hours after application. The results observed suggest that O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract may act through a humectant and occlusion mechanism.Uniterms Opuntia fícus indica/emulsion stability. Opuntia fícus indica/cosmetic efficacy. Skin/cosmetics/ use/efficacy

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“…The SC consists of about 15 tightly stacked layers of flattened dead cells full of keratin, embedded in a lipidic intercellular matrix, mainly composed of ceramides, long-chain free fatty acids and cholesterol [1]. The water content of the SC is low, compared with viable tissues, and it is characterized by a gradient that increases from the skin surface to the viable epidermis [2][3][4][5][6][7]. Due to its peculiar structure and composition, the SC represents the main barrier against the penetration of exogenous substances and also against transepidermal water loss.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Interpretation of the human skin biotribological behaviour after tape stripping

Pailler-Mattéi

Guerret‐Piécourt

Zahouani

et al. 2011

J. R. Soc. Interface.

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The present study deals with the modification of the human skin biotribological behaviour after tape stripping. The tape-stripping procedure consists in the sequential application and removal of adhesive tapes on the skin surface in order to remove stratum corneum (SC) layers, which electrically charges the skin surface. The skin electric charges generated by tape stripping highly change the skin friction behaviour by increasing the adhesion component of the skin friction coefficient. It has been proposed to rewrite the friction adhesion component as the sum of two terms: the first classical adhesion term depending on the intrinsic shear strength, t 0 , and the second term depending on the electric shear strength, t elec . The experimental results allowed to estimate a numerical value of the electric shear strength t elec . Moreover, a plan capacitor model with a dielectric material inside was used to modelize the experimental system. This physical model permitted to evaluate the friction electric force and the electric shear strength values to calculate the skin friction coefficient after the tape stripping. The comparison between the experimental and the theoretical value of the skin friction coefficient after the tape stripping has shown the importance of the electric charges on skin biotribological behaviour. The static electric charges produced by tape stripping on the skin surface are probably able to highly modify the interaction of formulations with the skin surface and their spreading properties. This phenomenon, generally overlooked, should be taken into consideration as it could be involved in alteration of drug absorption.

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Non-invasive in vivo methods for investigation of the skin barrier physical properties

Cited by 166 publications

References 107 publications

Design and in vivo evaluation of emulgel formulations including green tea extract and rose oil

Design and in vivo evaluation of emulgel formulations including green tea extract and rose oil

Use of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extracts from Brazilian Caatinga as an alternative of natural moisturizer in cosmetic formulations

Interpretation of the human skin biotribological behaviour after tape stripping

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