New insights into the fading problems of safflower red dyed textiles through a HPLC-PDA and colorimetric study

Costantini, Rosa; Berghe, Ina Vanden; Izzo, Francesca Caterina

doi:10.1016/j.culher.2018.12.002

Cited by 18 publications

(12 citation statements)

References 17 publications

(31 reference statements)

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“…When safflower is present in a sample, carthamin is generally accompanied by at least two other molecules, which have been identified as carthamin degradation products by retro-aldol reaction 34 , 57 . It was interesting to notice that these molecules were not present in these samples, suggesting a very good preservation state of the red color in these prints, especially considering the poor stability of carthamin within a wide range of conditions, including not only light exposure, but also humidity, temperature and ozone 58 .…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Integrating liquid chromatography mass spectrometry into an analytical protocol for the identification of organic colorants in Japanese woodblock prints

Vermeulen

Tamburini

Müller

et al. 2020

Sci Rep

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Three Japanese woodblock prints from the Edo period (1603–1868) underwent a scientific investigation with the aim of understanding the changes in the colorants used in Japanese printing techniques. A multi-analytical approach was adopted, combining non-invasive techniques, such as fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS), Raman spectroscopy, multispectral imaging (MSI), and macro X-ray fluorescence (MA-XRF) with minimally invasive surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy (SERS). The results enabled many of the pigments to be identified and their distribution to be studied, apart from two shades of purple of organic composition. Consequently, the potential of high-pressure liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC–MS/MS) was explored for the first time with application to Japanese woodblock prints. The intrinsic sensitivity of the instrument and an effective extraction protocol allowed us to identify a mixture of dayflower (Commelina communis) blue and safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) red in purple samples constituted of 2–3 single fibers. In addition to the innovative integration of MA-XRF and HPLC–MS/MS to investigate these delicate artworks, the study concluded on the use of traditional sources of colors alongside newly introduced pigments in late Edo-period Japan. This information is extremely important for understanding the printing practices, as well as for making decisions about display, conservation, and preservation of such artworks.

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Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Integrating liquid chromatography mass spectrometry into an analytical protocol for the identification of organic colorants in Japanese woodblock prints

Vermeulen

Tamburini

Müller

et al. 2020

Sci Rep

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“…The measuring head (3 mm diameter) was placed, with the aid of a positioning mask, on the same area of glass slide film samples before and after the accelerated ageing. In the field of Heritage Science, generally, ΔE values higher than 5 are not acceptable since the total colour variation is clearly detectable [ 34 , 35 , 36 ].…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Accelerated Ageing Procedures to Assess the Stability of an Unconventional Acrylic-Wax Polymeric Emulsion for Contemporary Art

et al. 2020

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This research evaluates the stability of an aqueous emulsion of acrylic copolymers and waxes. Edelwachs, generally applied on wood, has been recently used as an unconventional medium in contemporary painting. Through Pyrolysis–Gas Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (Py-GC-MS) and Fourier Transformed Infrared Attenuated Total Reflectance (FT-IR-ATR) analyses, the composition of Edelwachs was defined as a mixture of acrylic polymers (MA, MMA, nBA, nBMA), Carnauba and microcrystalline waxes and additives. Mock-ups-obtained mixing Edelwachs with titanium white, zinc white and ultramarine blue were subjected to UV, high temperatures, and high relative humidity accelerated ageing. The effect of the ageing procedures was evaluated through optical microscopy, colourimetric measurements, FT-IR-ATR, Thermogravimetry and Differential Scanning Calorimetry (TG-DSC) and wettability measures. FT-IR-ATR spectra do not show significant variations in terms of chemical stability, indicating a fair stability of Edelwachs as a painting binder. UV and high temperature treatments show the most relevant effects in terms of colorimetric changes (increasing of b*) and thermal stability. The TG-DSC highlights the influence of the pigments (specifically zinc white) mainly on the thermal behaviour of the acrylates. The unexpected decrease of wettability of the paint films, registered after ageing, may indicate a possible phase separation among acrylates and waxes.

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“…Safflower has been identified by chromatographic analysis on shrouds and wrappings of Egyptian mummies (the 25th and 26th dynasties, 700–500 BCE), 35 Chinese silks and silk embroideries (the 7th–10th and 12th–18th centuries), 10 , 36 , 37 Persian (Safavid) and Indian (Mughal) velvets (the 16th–18th centuries), 38 Italian silk (the 16th century), 10 silk tapestries of Florentine manufacture (the 16th century), 39 an inner lining of Italian doublet (the 17th century), and Russian pocket (the 19th century) 9 varying in color from beige through orange and pink to red.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Mass Spectrometry for Investigation of Natural Dyes in Historical Textiles: Unveiling the Mystery behind Safflower-Dyed Fibers

Lech

Nawała

Popiel

2021

J. Am. Soc. Mass Spectrom.

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Safflower ( Carthamus tinctorius L.) petals, depending on the nature of a dyeing bath, dye fibers yellow or red. This is due to the presence of two kinds of components, water-soluble yellow colorants and alkali-soluble red compounds. In this study, safflower-yellow- and safflower-red-dyed silk, cotton, and wool fibers were investigated using high- or ultrahigh-performance liquid chromatography hyphenated with spectrophotometry and tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC–UV–vis–ESI-MS/MS) and high-resolution Orbitrap mass spectrometry (HPLC–HESI-HRMS) in order to identify the natural dye in historical textiles. This way, several quinochalcone C -glycosides were separated and characterized. Their low- and high-resolution MS/MS spectra expanded the database of natural colorants in cultural heritage objects. Moreover, the colorless ct-markers (with a hitherto unknown structure) present in all safflower-dyed fabrics, regardless of the color or preservation conditions, were revealed to be E / Z stereoisomers of N 1 ,N 5 ,N 10 -tri- p -coumaroylspermidine. Since most of the standards was not available, discussion on possible molecular structures was provided. As a consequence, the analytical investigation of the reference fibers dyed with safflower demonstrated that the dye composition varies, depending on the dyeing conditions and type of fiber. Moreover, it was proven that carthamin, although alkali soluble, can be successfully released with a mild extraction method, without its hydrolysis under these conditions. The results helped us to characterize threads sampled from 16th to 18thcentury textiles of European and Near Eastern origin. It has completed the picture of natural dyes used in the most valuable textiles availed in liturgical vestments from the collections of Krakow churches.

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New insights into the fading problems of safflower red dyed textiles through a HPLC-PDA and colorimetric study

Cited by 18 publications

References 17 publications

Integrating liquid chromatography mass spectrometry into an analytical protocol for the identification of organic colorants in Japanese woodblock prints

Integrating liquid chromatography mass spectrometry into an analytical protocol for the identification of organic colorants in Japanese woodblock prints

Accelerated Ageing Procedures to Assess the Stability of an Unconventional Acrylic-Wax Polymeric Emulsion for Contemporary Art

Mass Spectrometry for Investigation of Natural Dyes in Historical Textiles: Unveiling the Mystery behind Safflower-Dyed Fibers

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