Mountaineering experience decreases the net oxygen cost of climbing Mont Blanc (4,808 m)

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to test the hypothesis that mountaineering experience decreases the net oxygen cost of uphill walking (OCw) on steep mountain trails and in ice and snow conditions. OCw was measured during an ascent of Mont Blanc in eight experienced alpinists and eight non-alpinists who were matched for sex (4 + 4) and low-altitude aerobic power (V(O)(2)(max) 50-55 ml kg(-1) min(-1)). Subjects carried a breath-by-breath gas exchange analyzer and a GPS. V(O)(2)(max) at altitude was estimated from measured low-altitude V(O)(2)(max) using Bassett's equation to calculate fractional use of V(O)(2)(max) during the ascent (FV(O)(2)(max)). OCw was calculated as the difference between V(O)(2) while climbing minus resting V(O)(2). At all elevations, Alpinists exhibited a lower OCw (P < 0.01). In all subjects, OCw increased when encountering ice and snow conditions. FV(O)(2)(max) remained stable around 75% at all elevations independent of experience or sex. In conclusion, the OCw is lower in experienced mountaineers compared to non-experienced subjects, and increases when going from steep rocky mountain terrain to ice and snow conditions, independent of mountaineering experience or sex.

Physiological characteristics of elite high‐altitude climbers

“…Climbing at high altitude requires abilities and skills other than maximal aerobic capacity. It has been suggested for instance that elite climbers exhibit a lower metabolic cost for climbing at high altitude (Billat et al, 2010). Previous studies having measured reduction in SpO 2 in elite climbers compared with non-climber active individuals during acute hypoxic exposure (Richalet et al, 1988) or less successful elite climbers (i.e., not reaching 8000-m summits without oxygen supplementation) during prolonged high-altitude exposure (Bernardi et al, 2006) did not report differences between groups.…”

“…Climbing at high altitude requires abilities and skills other than maximal aerobic capacity. It has been suggested for instance that elite climbers exhibit a lower metabolic cost for climbing at high altitude (Billat et al., ).…”

Cardiac Output and Performance during a Marathon Race in Middle-Aged Recreational Runners

“…Speed (V) was measured using an accelerometer (the RS800 CX from Polar Electro Oy, Oulu, Finland) [33]. Heart rate, SV, and CO were indexed according to running speed (HRS, SVS, and COS, respectively, with the following units: beats per meter for HRS, blood volume per beat per meter run for SVS, and blood volume per meter run for COS).…”

Differences in Cardiorespiratory Responses in Winter Mountaineering According to the Pathway Snow Conditions

“…Locomotion in ascent requires a higher energy expenditure than over flat terrain (Billat et al, 2010), and the most efficient mountain path gradient is 25% if there are no performance limitations impeding the subject from reaching maximal power (Minetti, 1995). Efficiency in locomotion decreases in snowy terrain, especially in individuals with little experience (Billat et al, 2010), presumably because of changes in biomechanical patterns of walking (Ramaswamy et al, 1966).…”

“…Locomotion in ascent requires a higher energy expenditure than over flat terrain (Billat et al, 2010), and the most efficient mountain path gradient is 25% if there are no performance limitations impeding the subject from reaching maximal power (Minetti, 1995). Efficiency in locomotion decreases in snowy terrain, especially in individuals with little experience (Billat et al, 2010), presumably because of changes in biomechanical patterns of walking (Ramaswamy et al, 1966). Considering this, fitness is described as an additional strategy to increase mountain safety (Burtscher et al, 2015), especially if ascents are performed at altitude or in adverse meteorological conditions, but little is known of its influence on technical mountaineering performance and additional energy demands.…”