Morphometric classification of swell-dominated embayed beaches

Fellowes, Thomas; Vila‐Concejo, Ana; Gallop, Shari L.

doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2019.02.004

Cited by 31 publications

(32 citation statements)

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“…We used synthetic headland shapes. However, headland geometry shows a striking natural variability (Fellowes et al, 2019 ; Figure 1), which deeply affects wave shadowing regions and accommodation space for sand deposit and, in turn, embayed beach shoreline behaviour. We used periodic lateral conditions, meaning that the amount of sediment leaving the domain in the north enters the domain from the south and vice versa.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Artificial coasts (e.g., approximately 30% of the French coastline, CEREMA, 2017) and hilly/mountainous coasts (Short and Masselink, 1999) constitute a large proportion of the world's coastlines, making embayed beaches ubiquitous globally. Due to the large natural variability of wave exposure and headland characteristics (Fellowes et al, 2019), embayed beaches exhibit a striking planform variability (Figure 1). Therefore, understanding and modelling embayed beach dynamics is an important but complex research area.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Modelling of embayed beach equilibrium planform and rotation signal

Castelle

Robinet²,

Idier

et al. 2020

Geomorphology

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Embayed beaches are highly attractive sandy beaches bounded laterally by rigid boundaries, which deeply affect equilibrium beach planform and shoreline dynamics. We use LX-Shore, a state-of-the-art shoreline change model coupled with a spectral wave model to address embayed beach shoreline dynamics driven by longshore sediment transport processes. The model is applied to different Highlights • Embayed beach shoreline response is simulated with a hybrid shoreline model • Headland length and headland sediment bypassing control shoreline response • Wave directional spreading is critical to both mean shoreline and rotation signal • Embayment beach length controls rotation characteristic timescale

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Modelling of embayed beach equilibrium planform and rotation signal

Castelle

Robinet²,

Idier

et al. 2020

Geomorphology

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“…Beach bound laterally in one or both extremities by physical barriers such as headlands, rock platforms or artificial structures such as groins, jetties and breakwaters (Hsu and Evans, 1989;Fellowes et al, 2019).…”

Section: Figure 2 Schematic Of An Engineered Perched Beach (Based Onmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The length, spacing, planform and morphology of embayed beaches is significantly impacted by this preexisting bedrock which provides the accommodation space (Short and Masselink, 1999;Cooper et al, 2018), so geological boundaries are a primary control on the morphodynamics of embayed beaches. The headlands on embayed beaches have diverse morphology, and may be symmetrical or asymmetrical in terms of their length, width, and orientation to the shoreline/wave approach (McCarroll et al, 2016;Fellowes et al, 2019). Embayed beach dimensions and headland length have an important influence on the level of geological control on the sediment budget and alongshore connectivity.…”

Section: Longshore Geological Controlmentioning

confidence: 99%

Geologically controlled sandy beaches: Their geomorphology, morphodynamics and classification

Gallop

Kennedy

Loureiro

et al. 2020

Science of The Total Environment

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Beaches that are geologically controlled by rock and coral formations are the rule, not the exception. This paper reviews current understanding of geologically controlled beaches, bringing together a range of terminologies (including embayed beaches, shore platform beaches, relict beaches, and perched beaches among others) and processes, with the aim of exploring the multiple ways in which geology influences beach morphology and morphodynamics. We show how in addition to sediment supply, the basement geology influences where beaches will form by providing accommodation, and in the cross-shore, aspects of rock platform morphology such as elevation and slope are also important. Geologically controlled beaches can have significant variations in sediment coverage with seasons and storms, and geological controls have fundamental influences on their contemporary morphodynamics. This includes wave shadowing by headlands and rocky/coral formations inducing strong alongshore gradients in wave energy, resulting in corresponding variations in morphodynamic beach state and storm response. Geologically-induced rip currents such as shadow rips and deflection rips, and even mega-rips that can develop on embayed beaches during storms, are an integral feature of the nearshore circulation and morphodynamics of geologically controlled beaches. We bring these processes together by presenting a conceptual model of alongshore and cross-shore levels of geological control. In the longshore dimension, this ranges from beaches that are slightly embayed, through to highly embayed beaches where headlands dominate the entire beach morphodynamic response. In the cross-shore dimension, this ranges from beaches without discernible geological controls, through to relict beaches above the influence of the contemporary littoral zone. Given the prevalence of geologically controlled beaches along the world's coasts, it is paramount for coastal management to consider how these beaches differ from unconstrained beaches and avoid applying inappropriate models and tools, especially with our uncertain future climate.

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“…Sandy beach morphodynamics are the result of complex interactions between sand, meteorological and oceanographic conditions, and in many cases, geological controls. Natural formations of rock and coral can form structural constraints in the nearshore that can form longshore and cross-shore geological controls [1]. In the cross-shore direction, beaches may be underlain or fronted seaward by hard landforms such as platforms and reefs [2,3].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Influence of Reef Topography on Storm-Driven Sand Flux

Bosserelle

Gallop

Haigh

et al. 2021

JMSE

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Natural formations of rock and coral can support geologically controlled beaches, where the beach dynamics are significantly influenced by these structures. However, little is known about how alongshore variations in geological controls influence beach morphodynamics. Therefore, in this study we focus on the storm response of a beach (Yanchep in south Western Australia) that has strong alongshore variation in the level of geological control because of the heterogeneous calcarenite limestone reef. We used a modified version of XBeach to simulate the beach morphodynamics during a significant winter storm event. We find that the longshore variation in topography of the reef resulted in: (1) strong spatial difference in current distribution, including areas with strong currents jets; and (2) significant alongshore differences in sand flux, with larger fluxes in areas strongly geologically controlled by reefs. In particular, this resulted in enhanced beach erosion at the boundary of the reef where strong currents jet-exited the nearshore.

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Morphometric classification of swell-dominated embayed beaches

Cited by 31 publications

References 50 publications

Modelling of embayed beach equilibrium planform and rotation signal

Modelling of embayed beach equilibrium planform and rotation signal

Geologically controlled sandy beaches: Their geomorphology, morphodynamics and classification

The Influence of Reef Topography on Storm-Driven Sand Flux

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