Monochromatic and random wave breaking at blocking points

Chawla, Arun; Kirby, James T.

doi:10.1029/2001jc001042

Cited by 124 publications

(163 citation statements)

References 20 publications

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“…Xu and Bowen, 1994). Reciprocally, currents can modify waves by, refraction, partial reflection, up to blocking (Smith, 1975;Chawla and Kirby, 2002).…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Three-dimensional modelling of wave-induced current from the surf zone to the inner shelf

et al. 2012

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Abstract. We develop and implement a new method to take into account the impact of waves into the 3-D circulation model SYMPHONIE (Marsaleix et al., 2008(Marsaleix et al., , 2009a following the simplified equations of , which use glm2z-RANS theory (Ardhuin et al., 2008c). These adiabatic equations are completed by additional parameterizations of wave breaking, bottom friction and wave-enhanced vertical mixing, making the forcing valid from the surf zone through to the open ocean. The wave forcing is performed by wave generation and propagation models WAVEWATCH III ® (Tolman, 2008(Tolman, , 2009Ardhuin et al., 2010) and SWAN (Booij et al., 1999). The model is tested and compared with other models for a plane beach test case, previously tested by Haas and Warner (2009) Finally, a realistic case is simulated with energetic waves travelling over a coast of the Gulf of Lion (in the northwest of the Mediterranean Sea) for which currents are available at different depths as well as an accurate bathymetric database of the 0-10 m depth range. A grid nesting approach is used to account for the different forcings acting at different spatial scales. The simulation coupling the effects of waves and currents is successful to reproduce the powerful northward littoral drift in the 0-15 m depth zone. More precisely, two distinct cases are identified: When waves have a normal angle of incidence with the coast, they are responsible for complex circulation cells and rip currents in the surf zone, and when they travel obliquely, they generate a northward littoral drift. These features are more complicated than in the test cases, due to the complex bathymetry and the consideration of wind and non-stationary processes. Wave impacts in the inner shelf are less visible since wind and regional circulation seem to be the predominant forcings. Besides, a discrepancy between model and observations is noted at that scale, possibly linked to an underestimation of the wind stress.This three-dimensional method allows a good representation of vertical current profiles and permits the calculation of the shear stress associated with waves and currents. Future work will focus on the combination with a sediment transport model.

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“…Xu and Bowen, 1994). Reciprocally, currents can modify waves by, refraction, partial reflection, up to blocking (Smith, 1975;Chawla and Kirby, 2002).…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Three-dimensional modelling of wave-induced current from the surf zone to the inner shelf

et al. 2012

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“…Furthermore, a spectral approach leads to continuous non-crossing characteristics in (x-k) space, indicating that no singularity exists in a spectral description of wave propagation. Laboratory observations of wave blocking (Lai et al, 1989;Chawla and Kirby, 2002;Suastika and Battjes, 2005) clearly validate the concept of a blocking point. However, the mechanism by which the wave energy is `removed' at the blocking point does not seem to be understood yet.…”

Section: Waves Blockingmentioning

confidence: 87%

Wave modelling – The state of the art

Cavaleri¹,

Alves²,

Ardhuin³

et al. 2007

Progress in Oceanography

453

177

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This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered.The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, non-linear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, non-linear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments. Keywords

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“…Here H b is a breaking waveheight, h b is breaking water depth and γ b is a constant. While the value of γ b used in the original Miche's [1951] criterion corresponds to γ b = 0.88, Chawla and Kirby [2002] applied the smaller value, γ b = 0.6, to obtain the best predictions of breaking points observed in their experiment of breaking waves against the opposing current. Ris and Holthujisen [1996] also applied the smaller value, γ b = 0.5, for their computations of wave deformation against strong opposing current.…”

Section: Impact Of Circulating Current On Deformations Of Storm Wavesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…(5) to compute breaking wave-height as functions of breaking water depth, h b , wave period, T , and current velocity component in the wave propagation direction, U c . Although Chawla and Kirby [2002] and Ris and Holthujisen [1996] apply the smaller value of γ b in the case of strong opposing current, this study used the constant value, γ b = 0.6, regardless of the magnitude of opposing current velocity since it is not well known how the value of γ b should vary with the opposing current velocity. In this study, therefore, the influence of opposing current appears only in the evaluation of the wave number and corresponding wave steepness obtained through Eqs.…”

Section: Impact Of Circulating Current On Deformations Of Storm Wavesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Study on Locally Varying Inundation Characteristics Induced by Super Typhoon Haiyan. Part 1: Dynamic Behavior of Storm Surge and Waves Around San Pedro Bay

Tajima

Gunasekara

Shimozono

et al. 2016

Coastal Engineering Journal

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This paper investigates the characteristics of coastal damages caused by Super Typhoon Haiyan with special focuses on dynamic behavior of storm surge and waves around San Pedro Bay. Numerical experiments were carried out to investigate the sensitivity of storm surge characteristics to various conditions, such as typhoon tracks, forward speed, and bottom frictions. Computed characteristics of storm surge and waves were compared to the observed inundation characteristics. Primary findings of the study are: (i) bay seiche elevated the peak surge height at the inner part of the bay; (ii) forward speed of Haiyan was close to the worst condition that enhances the bay seiche; (iii) neither storm waves nor storm surge could explain the observed inundation characteristics around the bay mouth, where the witnessed time of initial inundation was about 1h before the one at the inner part of the bay and the water level rapidly descended just after the peak while it remained for an hour at the inner part of the bay; and (iv) strong anti-clockwise circulating current was developed around the peak surge time and this current might have significant impact on wave dissipation and blocking around the San Pedro Bay mouth.

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Monochromatic and random wave breaking at blocking points

Cited by 124 publications

References 20 publications

Three-dimensional modelling of wave-induced current from the surf zone to the inner shelf

Three-dimensional modelling of wave-induced current from the surf zone to the inner shelf

Wave modelling – The state of the art

Study on Locally Varying Inundation Characteristics Induced by Super Typhoon Haiyan. Part 1: Dynamic Behavior of Storm Surge and Waves Around San Pedro Bay

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