Modeling the alongshore current on barred beaches

Ruessink, Gerben; Miles, Jon; Feddersen, Falk; Guza, R. T.; Elgar, Steve

doi:10.1029/2000jc000766

Cited by 215 publications

(263 citation statements)

References 29 publications

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“…We analyzed the effect of different θ for SLR = 0.4 and 0.8 m by varying θ between 0 • (shore-normal) and 33.75 • (Table 2). This large range of θ is considered reasonable given the field measurement by Ruessink et al (2001). SLR projections of 0.4 and 0.8 m were chosen to analyze the impact for different θ because they span the most likely SLR scenarios (low and high) for this century in the North Sea basin.…”

Section: Hydrodynamical Boundary Conditionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sensitivity analysis of climate change impacts on dune erosion: case study for the Dutch Holland coast

Winter

Ruessink

2017

Climatic Change

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Climate change could have large implications for the management of dunefringed coasts. Sea level rise and changes in storm wave and surge characteristics could lead to enhanced dune erosion and hence a decrease in safety levels. Here, we use the processbased model XBeach to quantify the impact of sea level rise and changing hydrodynamic boundary conditions on the magnitude of future dune erosion at two locations along the Dutch coast. We find a linear relation between sea level rise and dune erosion volume, the exact linear relation being dependent on the local hydrodynamical boundary conditions. The process driving higher erosion appears to be sea level rise, allowing waves to attack the dune at a higher level. Additional simulations illustrate that a change in the offshore wave angle, potentially produced by changes in storm tracks, could influence the erosion volume with the same order of magnitude as sea level rise. Finally, simulations with different mitigation options (i.e., sand nourishments) illustrate the strong effect of the location of the added sand to the reduction in the dune erosion volume.

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Section: Hydrodynamical Boundary Conditionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sensitivity analysis of climate change impacts on dune erosion: case study for the Dutch Holland coast

Winter

Ruessink

2017

Climatic Change

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“…where β rol is the angle of the wave/roller interface, usually assumed to be 0.1 or less (Ruessink et al, 2001). Wave conditions are prescribed offshore (H rms off , θ off and ω a = 2π/T p , where T p is the peak period).…”

Section: Hydrodynamicsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Usually a single parameter is adjusted, the saturation ratio of rms wave height over water depth, γ b , which is considered to be a free model parameter (Lippmann et al, 1996;Apotsos et al, 2007). In order to model longshore current profiles accurately, especially on beaches comprising shore-parallel bars, the inclusion of the surface rollers as well as the forcing by wind and tidal waves was proved to be essential (Reniers et al, 1997;Feddersen et al, 1998;Ruessink et al, 2001). Ruessink et al (2001) used data collected near Egmond aan Zee (the Netherlands, Coast3D experiment) and near Duck (USA, Duck94 experiment) in order to validate the results of a 1D model.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In order to model longshore current profiles accurately, especially on beaches comprising shore-parallel bars, the inclusion of the surface rollers as well as the forcing by wind and tidal waves was proved to be essential (Reniers et al, 1997;Feddersen et al, 1998;Ruessink et al, 2001). Ruessink et al (2001) used data collected near Egmond aan Zee (the Netherlands, Coast3D experiment) and near Duck (USA, Duck94 experiment) in order to validate the results of a 1D model. They adjusted the value of several model parameters, such as the apparent bed roughness, k a , so that the root mean square errors between modeled and measured currents were minimized.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers

Ribas

Swart

Calvete

et al. 2011

Journal of Marine Systems

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A morphodynamic model has been extended to gain more fundamental knowledge about the formation of nearshore sand bars. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, so that self-organized processes can develop. Offshore wave, wind and tide conditions and the bathymetry measured at Egmond site (the Netherlands) are firstly applied to compute the longshore current and wave height profiles. A comparison of the results with field data of that beach reveals that including the roller dynamics and the forcing by wind shear stresses and tide-induced sea level slopes is essential to accurately simulate the longshore current. Several model parameters are calibrated to minimize the rootmean-square errors. Subsequently, the wave and bathymetric conditions measured at Noordwijk site (the Netherlands) are used to compare modeled crescentic bars and up-current oriented finger bars with the nearshore sandbars observed at this site. Positive feedback leading to realistic formation of up-current bars only occurs if a novel term, i.e., the resuspension of sediment due to the turbulence created by the rollers, is included in the model. The modeled wavelength, crest orientation and growth rate agree with those of the observed up-current bars but the model overestimates the migration rate. The wavelength and migration rates of crescentic bars in case of oblique wave incidence are more accurately simulated if the reference longshore current is modeled including the roller dynamics.

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“…Finally, the roller energy dissipation rate, D r , in Eq. (5) is modelled following (Ruessink et al 2001), where the angle of the wave/roller interface, β rol , is assumed to be 0.1 or less.…”

Section: Hydrodynamic Equationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Observations and modeling of surf zone transverse finger bars at the Gold Coast, Australia

et al. 2014

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The occurrence and characteristics of transverse finger bars at Surfers Paradise (Gold Coast, Australia) have been quantified with 4 years of time-exposure video images. These bars are attached to the inner terrace and have an oblique orientation with respect to the coastline. They are observed during 24 % of the study period, in patches up to 15 bars, with an average lifetime of 5 days and a mean wavelength of 32 m. The bars are observed during obliquely incident waves of intermediate heights. Bar crests typically point toward the incoming wave direction, i.e., they are upcurrent oriented. The most frequent beach state when bars are present (43 % of the time) is a rhythmic low-tide terrace and an undulating outer bar. A morphodynamic model, which describes the feedback between waves, currents, and bed evolution, has been applied to study the mechanisms for finger bar formation. Realistic positive feedback leading to the formation of the observed bars only occurs if the sediment resuspension due to roller-induced turbulence is included. This causes the depth-averaged sediment concentration to decrease in the seaward direction, enhancing the convergence of sediment transport in the offshore-directed flow perturbations that occur over the up-current bars. The longshore current strength also plays an important role; the offshore root-mean-square wave height and angle must be larger than some critical values (0.5 m and 20 • , respectively, at 18-m depth). Model-data comparison indicates that the modeled bar shape characteristics (up-current orientation) and the wave conditions leading to the bar formation agree with data, while the modeled wavelengths and migration rates are larger than the observed ones. The discrepancies might be because in the model we neglect the influence of the large-scale beach configuration.

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Modeling the alongshore current on barred beaches

Cited by 215 publications

References 29 publications

Sensitivity analysis of climate change impacts on dune erosion: case study for the Dutch Holland coast

Sensitivity analysis of climate change impacts on dune erosion: case study for the Dutch Holland coast

Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers

Observations and modeling of surf zone transverse finger bars at the Gold Coast, Australia

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