Mineral oils and waxes in cosmetics: an overview mainly based on the current European regulations and the safety profile of these compounds

Chuberre, B.; Araviiskaia, Elena; Bieber, Thomas; Barbaud, A.

doi:10.1111/jdv.15946

Cited by 41 publications

(40 citation statements)

References 29 publications

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“…Thus, the incorporation of complex lipids, such as natural waxes into LM, enhances crystal formation, emulsification and improves the loading capacity compared to pure triglycerides. These waxes can form an isotropic LM with oils, cosolvents, and surfactants due to low polarity, long chain length, and high melting point of their compounds ( Table 1 ) [ 12 ]. LM is stably resisting oxidation and hydrolysis, and contributes to the excellent skin tolerance, lubrication, and cleansing performance [ 13 ].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Lipidic Matrixes Containing Clove Essential Oil: Biological Activity, Microstructural and Textural Studies

Rojas

Cabrera

Benavides³

et al. 2021

Molecules

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Clove essential oil (CEO) is known for having excellent antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, but the poor stability of its components to light and temperature compromise this activity. The aim of this study is to evaluate the textural, antioxidant, antimicrobial and microstructural properties of matrixes produced with representative natural waxes and CEO. Thus, waxy emulsifiers, such as beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, and ozokerite wax, were employed to create such matrixes. The thermal, microstructural, textural, wetting, antioxidant, antimicrobial and infrared characteristics of the matrixes were then studied. The diverse chemical composition (long-chain wax esters in carnauba wax and short-chain fatty acids and hydrocarbons in beeswax and ozokerite wax, respectively) explained the differences in wetting, texture, melting, and crystallization characteristics. Crystal forms of these matrix systems varied from grainy, oval, to needle-like shape, but keeping an orthorhombic allomorph. The alignment and reorganization of beeswax and ozokerite wax into needle-like crystals increased the matrix strength and adhesion force compared to those of carnauba and candelilla matrixes, which showed weak strength and grainy morphology. The former two waxes and their matrixes also showed the largest plasticity. These lipidic matrixes show potential use for topical applications having acceptable antioxidant and textural properties.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Lipidic Matrixes Containing Clove Essential Oil: Biological Activity, Microstructural and Textural Studies

Rojas

Cabrera

Benavides³

et al. 2021

Molecules

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…The incorporation of complex lipids, such as natural waxes into LM, enhances crystal formation and loading capacity as compared to pure triglycerides. These waxes are able to form an isotropic LM with oils, cosolvents, and surfactants due to the low polarity, long chain length, and high melting point of their compounds (Table 1) [20]. They are very stable resisting oxidation and hydrolysis, and contribute to the excellent skin tolerance, lubrication, and cleansing performance of LM [21].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Lipidic Matrixes Containing Lemon Essential Oil Increases Storage Stability: Rheological, Thermal, and Microstructural Studies

et al. 2020

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Lemon essential oil (LEO) is known for having excellent antioxidant properties with applications in the pharmaceutical, food and cosmetic sectors. However, its deficient stability to light and temperature compromise this activity. In this study, waxy emulsifiers, such as beewax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, and ozokerite wax, were employed in order to create lipidic matrixes with LEO as a continuous phase by heating to 80 °C under homogenization, followed by rapid cooling to 25 °C. The thermal, microstructural, rheological, and antioxidant tests were then conducted on such matrixes. The difference in melting, crystallization, and gelling temperatures was explained by the diverse chemical composition (long-chain wax esters in carnauba wax having a high melting point, and short-chain fatty acids and hydrocarbons in beewax and ozokerite wax, respectively). Crystal habits of these matrix systems varied from grainy, oval, to fiber-like shape, whereas there was a prevalent orthorhombic allomorph. The alignment and reorganization of carnauba and candelilla wax crystals led to an increase in the matrix strength as compared to those of beeswax and ozokerite matrixes, which showed a weak texture and poor crystallization behavior. The last two matrix systems showed the best flow and extensibility. These lipidic matrixes showed potential use for topical applications having good oil retention capacity and better antioxidant properties as compared to the raw essential oil.

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“…Mineral oils are used in lip balms to inhibit water loss, thereby creating a protective layer on top of the skin [15]. Mineral oils have been used for over one hundred years.…”

Section: The Safety Of Mineral Oil Saturated Hydrocarbonsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Still, European consumers use about four lip balms a year, which is equivalent to 20 g [15]. Even considering the worst-case scenario of a lip balm containing 77% MOSHs, this amounts to 42.2 mg of MOSHs per person per day, i.e., 0.6 mg/kg/day for a 70 kg person.…”

Section: Acceptable Daily Intake Of Mineral Oilsmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Do Claims about the Naturalness and Dose of Cosmetics Ingredients Affect the Public’s Perception of Their Safety?

Chandon

2020

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Media articles have claimed that “synthetic mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH)”, which are used in many cosmetics such as lip balms, are unsafe at any dose and should be replaced with natural alternatives. This paper examines whether these claims are correct and whether the perceived safety of these substances is influenced by the language used in the media. To achieve these goals, it first provides an extensive review of the toxicology literature, finding no support that MOSHs are unsafe at current usage levels. It then reviews the psychology literature to examine the effects of labelling a cosmetic ingredient as “natural” rather than “synthetic” and the effects of dose information. A 2 × 2 between-subjects experiments involving adult lip balm users shows that, as hypothesized, the perceived safety of lip balms increases when they are described as containing “naturally sourced mineral oil” rather than “synthetic mineral oil saturated hydrocarbon (MOSH)”, which are both correct descriptions. In addition, the perceived safety increases when the substance is described as being present in a low vs. a high dose, regardless of whether it was described as natural or synthetic. Overall, safety perceptions for common cosmetic substances can be significantly influenced by the language used in media reporting.

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Mineral oils and waxes in cosmetics: an overview mainly based on the current European regulations and the safety profile of these compounds

Cited by 41 publications

References 29 publications

Lipidic Matrixes Containing Clove Essential Oil: Biological Activity, Microstructural and Textural Studies

Lipidic Matrixes Containing Clove Essential Oil: Biological Activity, Microstructural and Textural Studies

Lipidic Matrixes Containing Lemon Essential Oil Increases Storage Stability: Rheological, Thermal, and Microstructural Studies

Do Claims about the Naturalness and Dose of Cosmetics Ingredients Affect the Public’s Perception of Their Safety?

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