Measurements of a saturated range in ocean wave spectra

Forristall, George Z.

doi:10.1029/jc086ic09p08075

Cited by 156 publications

(119 citation statements)

References 17 publications

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“…Laboratory data from the classic study of Toba [11] clearly showed that wave spectra at laboratory scales contain characteristic ω −4 equilibrium ranges, rather than the ω −5 form initially hypothesized by Phillips [37] and adopted in many early spectral parameterizations of ocean spectra [38,39]. More recent studies, including Mitsuyasu et al [29], Forristall [26], Donelan et al [9] and Battjes et al [31] (see also [27,28,30,32]), have all shown that the equilibrium range in deep-water ocean waves follows an ω −4 form. Resio et al [40] have shown that the infinite-depth form for the equilibrium form is k −5/2 , which is also consistent with the Kolmogorov spectrum and asymptotically approaches ω −4 form in deep water.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…We would like to make clear that the Phillips asymptotic ω −5 never can be obtained as the solution of the Hasselmann's equation. Anyway, experimentalists systematically observe ω −5 tails in spectra of gravity waves, both in laboratory and in the ocean [13,26]. On our opinion, these tails appear in the conditions when local steepness is close to critical and the kinetic Hasselmann's equation in this case is not applicable, because the level of nonlinearity is very high.…”

Section: Matching With Sources and Non-stationary Behaviormentioning

confidence: 99%

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Weak turbulent approach to the wind-generated gravity sea waves

Pushkarev

Resio

Захаров

2003

Physica D: Nonlinear Phenomena

103

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We performed numerical simulation of the kinetic equation describing behavior of an ensemble of random-phase, spatially homogeneous gravity waves on the surface of the infinitely deep ocean. Results of simulation support the theory of weak turbulence not only in its basic points, but also in many details. The weak turbulent theory predicts that the main physical processes taking place in the wave ensemble are down-shift of spectral peak and "leakage" of energy and momentum to the region of very small scales where they are lost due to local dissipative processes. Also, the spectrum of energy right behind the spectral peak should be close to the weak turbulent Kolmogorov spectrum which is the exact solution of the stationary kinetic (Hasselmann) equation. In a general case, this solution is anisotropic and is defined by two parameters-fluxes of energy and momentum to high wave numbers. Even in the anisotropic case the solution in the high wave number region is almost proportional to the universal form ω −4 . This result should be robust with respect to change of the parameters of forcing and damping. In all our numerical experiments, the ω −4 Kolmogorov spectrum appears in very early stages and persists in both stationary and non-stationary stages of spectral development. A very important aspect of the simulations conducted here was the development of a quasi-stationary wave spectrum under wind forcing, in absence of any dissipation mechanism in the spectral peak region. This equilibrium is achieved in the spectral range behind the spectral peak due to compensation of wind forcing and leakage of energy and momentum to high wave numbers due to nonlinear four-wave interaction. Numerical simulation demonstrates slowing down of the shift of the spectral peak and formation of the bimodal angular distribution of energy in the agreement with field and laboratory experimental data. A more detailed comparison with the experiment can be done after developing of an upgraded code making possible to model a spatially inhomogeneous ocean.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Matching With Sources and Non-stationary Behaviormentioning

confidence: 99%

Weak turbulent approach to the wind-generated gravity sea waves

Pushkarev

Resio

Захаров

2003

Physica D: Nonlinear Phenomena

103

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“…Despite the fact that the Donelan's form (Equation (2)) seems to reasonably describe, as verified in some previous studies [14,17], the wave energy distribution in the frequency domain, scholars continued to explore the appropriate equations for describing the spectral power density decay at the high frequency end in different sea areas. In fact, a universal form, S( f ) ∝ β f n , is proposed which makes a fitting process necessary to yield the most appropriate shaping parameters β and n based on analyzing observed wave spectra [18].…”

Section: Wave Spectrum Engineering Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wind Profiles and Wave Spectra for Potential Wind Farms in South China Sea. Part II: Wave Spectrum Model

Liu

Qian

et al. 2017

Energies

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Abstract:Along with the commercialization of offshore wind energy in China, the South China Sea has been identified as ideal for constructing offshore wind farms, especially for farms consisting of floating wind turbines over deep waters. Since the wind profiles and wave spectra are somewhat primitive for the design of an offshore wind turbine, engineering models describing the wind and wave characteristics in the South China Sea area are necessary for the offshore wind energy exploitation given the meteorological, hydrological, and geographical differences between the South China Sea and the North/Norwegian Sea, where the commonly used wind profile and wave spectrum models were designated. In the present study; a series of numerical simulations were conducted to reveal the wave characteristics in the South China Sea under both typhoon and non-typhoon conditions. By analyzing the simulation results; the applicability of the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) spectrum model; in terms of characterizing the wind-induced wave fields in the South China Sea; was discussed. In detail; the key parameters of the JONSWAP spectrum model; such as the Phillips constant; spectral width parameter; peak-enhancement factor, and high frequency tail decay; were investigated in the context of finding suitable values.

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“…3. Several authors [4][5][6] compared measurements of the wave height to the theoretical predictions, but the comparison has not been very conclusive. One of the problems is that the main source of energy at sea is the wind, which causes the injection of energy to be fundamentally anisotropic.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Turbulent parametric surface waves

2009

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We study disordered capillary waves on the surface of a vertically oscillated fluid layer and try to establish their relation with weak wave turbulence. We measure the surface gradient in space and time and argue that gradient spectra are better suited for comparison to the predictions of weak wave turbulence theory than spectra of the surface elevation. Because the gradient is a vector quantity, we must distinguish longitudinal and transverse spectra. However, they prove to be related trivially through isotropy. From the measured wavenumber-frequency spectrum it appears that the dispersion relation is only satisfied approximately. In the wavenumber direction the spectral features are strongly broadened due to spatial disorder. This disagrees with weak wave turbulence theory where exact satisfaction of the dispersion relation is pivotal. We find approximate algebraic frequency and wavenumber spectra but with exponents that are different from those predicted by weak wave turbulence theory. However, other findings, such as the broadening of harmonics proportional to their frequency and the emergence of Gaussian statistics at selected wavenumber bands, point to weak wave turbulence.

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Measurements of a saturated range in ocean wave spectra

Cited by 156 publications

References 17 publications

Weak turbulent approach to the wind-generated gravity sea waves

Weak turbulent approach to the wind-generated gravity sea waves

Wind Profiles and Wave Spectra for Potential Wind Farms in South China Sea. Part II: Wave Spectrum Model

Turbulent parametric surface waves

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