Measurement Programme Dutch Wadden Sea

Zijderveld, Annette; Peters, Herman

doi:10.1142/9789814277426_0034

Cited by 8 publications

(7 citation statements)

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“…Additional, yearly datasets are available for the interval 2007-2010. These data were obtained by Rijkswaterstaat in the framework of the SBW-Waddenzee project (Zijderveld and Peters, 2006), but processed and saved in a format similar to the Vaklodingen. Half-yearly bathymetric surveys of the ebbtidal delta started in 2016 and will be continued until the end of 2019 in the KustGenese 2 project.…”

Section: Bathymetric Measurements and Observationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Understanding sediment bypassing processes through analysis of high-frequency observations of Ameland Inlet, the Netherlands

et al. 2019

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Ameland inlet is centrally located in the chain of West Frisian Islands (the Netherlands). A globally unique dataset of detailed bathymetric charts starting in the early 19th century, and high-resolution digital data since 1986 allows for detailed investigations of the ebb-tidal delta morphodynamics and sediment bypassing over a wide range of scales. The ebb-tidal delta exerts a large influence on the updrift and downdrift shorelines, leading to periodic growth and decay (net erosion) of the updrift (Terschelling) island tip, while sequences of sediment bypassing result in shoal attachment to the downdrift coastline of Ameland. Distinct differences in location, shape and volume of the attachment shoals result from differences in sediment bypassing, which can be driven by morphodynamic interactions at the large scale of the inlet system (O(10 km)), and through interactions that originate at the smallest scale of individual shoal instabilities (O(0.1 km)). Such shoal instabilities would not be considered to affect the ebb-tidal delta and inlet dynamics as a whole, but as we have shown in this paper, they can trigger a new sediment bypassing cycle and result in complete relocation of channels and shoals. These subtle dynamics are difficult, if not impossible, to capture in existing general conceptual models and empirical relationships. These differences are, however, essential for understanding tidal inlet and channel morphodynamics and hence coastal management.

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Section: Bathymetric Measurements and Observationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Understanding sediment bypassing processes through analysis of high-frequency observations of Ameland Inlet, the Netherlands

et al. 2019

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“…Apart from the tidal channels, the Wadden Sea interior is shallow and flat, with tidally modulated depths normally ranging between 0 m (dry fall) and 3 m. During extreme storms, storm surges can cause depths over the flats to increase to up to about 6 m. The Amelander Zeegat tidal inlet (Figure 2) is found between the barrier islands of Terschelling (to the west) and Ameland (to the east). A program of wave monitoring has been operational in this inlet since 2003 [ Zijderveld and Peters , 2008]. Hindcast studies based on this data [ Groeneweg et al , 2008; van Vledder et al , 2008] have shown that the ebb tidal delta strongly shields offshore waves, so that the wavefield in the Wadden Sea interior is dominated by locally generated wind sea developing over finite depth.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Modeling of depth‐induced wave breaking under finite depth wave growth conditions

Westhuysen

2010

J. Geophys. Res.

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[1] Recent studies have shown that the spectral wind wave model SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) underestimates wave heights and periods in situations of finite depth wave growth. In this study, this inaccuracy is addressed through a rescaling of the Battjes and Janssen (1978) bore-based model for depth-induced breaking, considering both sloping bed surf zone situations and finite depth wave growth conditions. It is found that the variation of the model error with the breaker index g BJ in this formulation differs significantly between the two types of conditions. For surf zones, clear optimal values are found for the breaker index. By contrast, under finite depth wave growth conditions, model errors asymptotically decrease with increasing values of the breaker index (weaker dissipation). Under both the surf zone and finite depth wave growth conditions, optimal calibration settings of g BJ were found to correlate with the dimensionless depth k p d (where k p is the spectral peak wave number and d is the water depth) and the local mean wave steepness. Subsequently, a new breaker index, based on the local shallow water nonlinearity, expressed in terms of the biphase of the self-interactions of the spectral peak, is proposed. Implemented in the bore-based breaker model of Thornton and Guza (1983), this breaker index accurately predicts the large difference in dissipation magnitudes found between surf zone conditions and finite depth growth situations. Hence, the proposed expression yields a significant improvement in model accuracy over the default Battjes and Janssen (1978) model for finite depth growth situations, while retaining good performance for sloping bed surf zones.

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“…The general information requirements for the model had to be matched with possible wave measurement methods and available measurement locations. Reference is made to Zijderveld and Peters (2008). At the moment the wave-measuring configuration in the Wadden Sea is mainly confined to a rather large number (about 25) of wave measuring (non-)directional Wave riders buoys.…”

Section: Wadden Seamentioning

confidence: 99%