Lurik as Javanese Low Class Society Local Wisdom of Utilizing Natural Resource for Clothing

Abstract

Culture represents human being civilization. The more complex a culture is, the more civilized human being who are possessing the culture. Acultured and civilized society can be seen through its lifestyle. As part of human lifestyle, fashion plays an important role as culture identity. Lurik is Javanese low to middle class society culture identity. It is their local wisdom of utilizing abundant and affordablenatural resource of fabric or clothingmaterial in Java. This research shows how Javanese people understand lurikphilosophy as Javanese traditional clothing and its particular use for the low-class society. The data were collected by doing literature review of lurik’s philosophy, observation of lurik use, and interview with local people who understand well about lurik and its meaning for them. The result shows that only particular Javanese people understand the lurik philosophy well and utilize it properly for the low-class society benefit, such as wearing it as a particular clothing that protects them from danger and wearing it as uniform for traditional ceremony.The meaning of lurik is already shifted from protection from danger under its philosophy and culture identity as low-class Javanese society into casual daily outfit andcommercial goods for business including tourism.

Development of lurik Bayat fabric design for interior elements

“…Additionally, according to Javanese expert KRH. Koesoemotanoyo, the syllable 'rik' holds a religious connotation, representing a shallow line or ditch leaving an indelible impression, akin to a line that is challenging to erase [2], [7]- [9]. This interpretation aligns with the Javanese belief in 'mageri,' signifying the spiritual fortification of a house to safeguard it and its contents from malevolent intentions imperceptible in real or rational terms [10].…”

“…The presence of the Lurik cloth industry in Jambakan Village, Bayat Subdistrict, Klaten District, is intricately linked to the historical development of lurik cloth in Surakarta. Lurik, a traditional textile dating back to the time of the Kartasura Palace, gained popularity for everyday and traditional wear, as well as a requisite fabric for ceremonial offerings within and outside the palace [2]. Despite various attempts to revive lurik, such as initiatives in the sixties to facilitate the procurement of lawe yarn for lurik and woven fabric entrepreneurs, including the establishment of cooperatives like Batari, success has been limited.…”

Utilizing Lurik Waste for Handicraft Home Industry to Improve Low Class Family Income

“…Lurik is a kind of woven cloth with a particular striped and checked pattern in dark colour combined with bright coloured thread to make it aesthetic [8] The oldest lurik pattern, named lurik pakan malang was recorded in 851-822 Century in an inscription of Mataram Kingdom during its Hindu era [9]. Lurik along with its particular loom was also mentioned in literature and folktale from different part of Indonesia which is famous of its woven cloth such as Palembang, Bali, Tuban, Yogyakarta, and Surakarta.…”

“…Lurik along with its particular loom was also mentioned in literature and folktale from different part of Indonesia which is famous of its woven cloth such as Palembang, Bali, Tuban, Yogyakarta, and Surakarta. The complete explanation of lurik's history, philosophy, making process (weaving and dyeing), pattern kind and meaning, usage, as well as myth is presented by Safitri in her research [8].…”