Lipid arrangements in human stratum corneum

Bouwstra, A.; Gooris, Gert S.; Spek, J.A. van der; Bras, Wim

doi:10.1007/bfb0114425

Cited by 17 publications

(31 citation statements)

References 15 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…This discussion is mainly based on data obtained from SAXS measurements on SC and SC lipid models that in fact, have shown somewhat contradictory results. In some of these studies, no swelling was detected in human and mouse SC [28,56,68], while minor swelling has been reported for the lipid bilayers in pig SC [27] and SC lipid models [69], and a rather pronounced swelling was shown for the short lamellar repeat distance structure in the SC of hairless mouse from 5.8 nm at 12 wt.% water to 6.6 nm at 50 wt.% water [57]. More recently, also neutron scattering results [70] indicated swelling of the bilayer regions of human SC.…”

Section: Solid and Fluid Sc Lipidsmentioning

confidence: 98%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Stratum corneum hydration: Phase transformations and mobility in stratum corneum, extracted lipids and isolated corneocytes

Silva

Topgaard

Kocherbitov

et al. 2007

Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes

106

102

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

The outermost layer of skin, stratum corneum (SC), functions as the major barrier to diffusion. SC has the architecture of dead keratin filled cells embedded in a lipid matrix. This work presents a detailed study of the hydration process in extracted SC lipids, isolated corneocytes and intact SC. Using isothermal sorption microcalorimetry and relaxation and wideline (1)H NMR, we study these systems at varying degrees of hydration/relative humidities (RH) at 25 degrees C. The basic findings are (i) there is a substantial swelling both of SC lipids, the corneocytes and the intact SC at high RH. At low RHs corneocytes take up more water than SC lipids do, while at high RHs swelling of SC lipids is more pronounced than that of corneocytes. (ii) Lipids in a fluid state are present in both extracted SC lipids and in the intact SC. (iii) The fraction of fluid lipids is lower at 1.4% water content than at 15% but remains virtually constant as the water content is further increased. (iv) Three exothermic phase transitions are detected in the SC lipids at RH=91-94%, and we speculate that the lipid re-organization is responsible for the hydration-induced variations in SC permeability. (v) The hydration causes swelling in the corneocytes, while it does not affect the mobility of solid components (keratin filaments).

show abstract

Section: Solid and Fluid Sc Lipidsmentioning

confidence: 98%

“…134 Å and a short lamellar structure with a repeat period of ca. 60 Å [27,28]. The majority of the SC intercellular lipids are in a solid state at normal RH and ambient temperature [29][30][31][32][33][34].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Stratum corneum hydration: Phase transformations and mobility in stratum corneum, extracted lipids and isolated corneocytes

Silva

Topgaard

Kocherbitov

et al. 2007

Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes

106

102

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…The X-ray diffraction measurements were carried out at a Synchrotron Radiation Station (Daresbury, UK), equipped with a small-angle quadrant detector and a wide-angle INEL detector, in such a way that small-and wide-angle diffraction can be carried out simultaneously (Bouwstra et al, 1992a).…”

Section: Voltage Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The repeat distance (d) was calculated using the Bragg equation, stating the requirements for constructive interference: 2d.sinu 5 n.l (Bouwstra et al, 1992a).…”

Section: Voltage Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

“…These lipids form a highly organized barrier against diffusion of hydrophilic compounds (Blank, 1965). X-ray diffraction has shown that at physiological temperature these lipids are organized in two lamellar structures, characterized by repeat distances of 6.4 nm and 13.4 nm (Bouwstra et al, 1992a), respectively. Laterally, the lipids are predominantly arranged in orthorhombic and hexagonal structures (Bouwstra et al, 1992b).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Electroperturbation of the human skin barrier in vitro: II. Effects on stratum corneum lipid ordering and ultrastructure

Hinsberg

Verhoef

Spies

et al. 1997

Microsc. Res. Tech.

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Cleansers' mildness: Stratum corneum lipid organization and water uptake after a single wash

Perticaroli

Meyers

Wireko

et al. 2020

J Raman Spectroscopy

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

The modern marketplace for personal cleansing demands effective but also gentle products. The acute effects of skin exposure to personal cleansers are a key driver in product mildness. Yet many current clinical methods of assessing this mildness rely upon exaggerated test conditions that do not match the brief contact time with the skin in typical use. Here, we present an approach to quantitatively measure changes in composition, water uptake, and spacing of lipid lamellar structures in human stratum corneum after a single~2-minute wash protocol. The approach is based upon in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) of ex vivo stratum corneum. Raman data, collected using cleansers with varying degrees of harshness, reveal changes in water uptake as a function of skin depth and detect depth of damage upon cleansing, a conduit to barrier integrity. By treating isolated human stratum corneum with cleansers for similarly short exposures, SAXS reveals structural perturbations associated with interactions of surfactants and skin lipid lamellar structure, also a measure of barrier strength. Disruption of the characteristic periodicity phases of the lipid lamellae or formation of new phases with intermediate periodicity due to surfactant intercalation are observed for different formulations. This approach provides molecular scale characterization of skin-product interactions and resulting skin barrier effects in more realistic consumer treatment conditions. It also provides feedback about cleansers' mildness in a rapid fashion and at lower cost, widening a bottleneck of identification and assessment of new ingredients in the early stages of formula design. K E Y W O R D Sin vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy, lipid lamellae, skin barrier, X-Ray scattering, water content

show abstract

Lipid arrangements in human stratum corneum

Cited by 17 publications

References 15 publications

Stratum corneum hydration: Phase transformations and mobility in stratum corneum, extracted lipids and isolated corneocytes

Stratum corneum hydration: Phase transformations and mobility in stratum corneum, extracted lipids and isolated corneocytes

Electroperturbation of the human skin barrier in vitro: II. Effects on stratum corneum lipid ordering and ultrastructure

Cleansers' mildness: Stratum corneum lipid organization and water uptake after a single wash

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About