Irregular Wave‐Induced Velocities in Shallow Water

Sultan, Nels J.; Hughes, Steven A.

doi:10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1993)119:4(429)

Cited by 7 publications

(4 citation statements)

References 21 publications

(28 reference statements)

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“…of orbital velocity becomes negatively skewed with respect to the depth. This result, however, is neither confirmed by laboratory experiments nor by field observations [19,20,21,22].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 60%

Non-Gaussian properties of second-order wave orbital velocity

Alberello

Chabchoub

Gramstad

et al. 2016

Coastal Engineering

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A stochastic second-order wave model is applied to assess the statistical properties of wave orbital velocity in random sea states below the water surface. Directional spreading effects as well as the dependency of the water depth are investigated by means of a Monte-Carlo approach. Unlike for the surface elevation, sub-harmonics dominate the second-order contribution to orbital velocity. We show that a notable set-down occurs for the most energetic and steepest groups. This engenders a negative skewness in the temporal evolution of the orbital velocity. A substantial deviation of the upper and lower tails of the probability density function from the Gaussian distribution is noticed, velocities are faster below the wave trough and slower below the wave crest when compared with linear theory predictions. Second-order nonlinearity effects strengthen with reducing the water depth, while weaken with the broadening of the wave spectrum. The results are confirmed by laboratory data. Corresponding experiments have been conducted in a large wave basin taking into account the directionality of the wave field. As shown, laboratory data are in very good agreement with the numerical prediction.Comment: 13 pages, 8 figure

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“…of orbital velocity becomes negatively skewed with respect to the depth. This result, however, is neither confirmed by laboratory experiments nor by field observations [19,20,21,22].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 60%

Non-Gaussian properties of second-order wave orbital velocity

Alberello

Chabchoub

Gramstad

et al. 2016

Coastal Engineering

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“…Sultan (1992) measured wave orbital velocities near the bottom in a laboratory wave flume with a laser Doppler velocity meter. It was found that the distribution of instantaneous orbital velocities obeys the Gaussian distribution, and the distribution of wave orbital velocity amplitudes approximately follows the Rayleigh distribution.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…It was also found that the Gram-Charlier distribution is less effective than the Gaussian distribution in fitting to the measured instantaneous orbital velocities, while a modified form of the Rayleigh distribution, the Beta-Rayleigh distribution, agrees better with the measured orbital velocity amplitudes than the Rayleigh distribution. Sultan (1992) and Sultan and Hughes (1993) all recommended to undertake further field studies to broaden the data range from which the statistical distributions were derived. Song and Wu (2000) studied the statistical distributions of horizontal and vertical instantaneous orbital velocities based on a second-order random wave theory.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The statistical distribution of nearbed wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth

You¹

2009

Coastal Engineering

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“…The significant wave height H 1/3 and period T 1/3 are then chosen to represent the characteristics of the real sea in the form of monochromatic waves (H 1/3 , T 1/3 ). In contrast, the statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity has been studied by only a few investigators (eg Sultan and Hughes, 1993;You and Hanslow, 2001) even though the nearbed orbital velocity is an essential parameter in modelling of wave hydrodynamics and sediment transport (You, 1994;You, 1998). As the result, it is commonly assumed that the statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity maxima is the same as the distribution of wave heights and can be described by Rayleigh distribution (Dean and Dalrymle, 1995).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Statistical Distribution of Wave Orbital Velocity in Finite Water Depth

You¹

2009

Advances in Water Resources and Hydraulic Engineering

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A comprehensive field study was undertaken to determine the statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity in finite water depth. Two ocean ADV current meters were mounted on two separate stainless steel tripods to measure horizontal wave orbital velocity components ) , ( v u and wave pressure ξ at a sampling rate of 2Hz for 17.07min every hour at 0.5m above the seabed in two coastal water depths of 12m and 24m. The zero-crossing method was then applied to analyse the collected field data to obtain wave orbital velocity maxima U of individual waves. It is found that the statistical distributions of ũ , ṽ and ξ are identical and obey Gaussian distribution as commonly assumed, and that the statistical distribution of U deviates from the Rayleigh distribution as U becomes larger. A two-parameter Weibull distribution is also proposed to compute the average orbital velocity U p of the first n largest orbital velocity maxima more accurately than the Rayleigh distribution.

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Irregular Wave‐Induced Velocities in Shallow Water

Cited by 7 publications

References 21 publications

Non-Gaussian properties of second-order wave orbital velocity

Non-Gaussian properties of second-order wave orbital velocity

The statistical distribution of nearbed wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth

Statistical Distribution of Wave Orbital Velocity in Finite Water Depth

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