Injury prevention of student rock climbers based on the formation of rational technique of movements: a randomized control trial

Козин, С.В.; Kozina, Zh.L.; Jagiełło, Marina; Joksimović, Marko

doi:10.15561/20755279.2021.0507

Cited by 3 publications

(7 citation statements)

References 24 publications

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“…The independent-samples T-test was used to compare the averaged values of the tested parameters for the control and experimental groups [32,41]. This test was also employed to uncover intra-group differences before and after the experiment.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Physical exercises improve cognitive abilities of 7-8 years old chess club’s students

Vus,

Kozina,

Sobko

et al. 2023

HSTRPT

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Background and purpose Many studies show the positive impact of playing chess on the cognitive abilities, motor skills and psychophysiological characteristics of people. On the other hand, physical exercises are of great importance for the progress of kids’ cognitive features. In view of this, our study was aimed at determining the effect of physical exercises on cognitive abilities and psychophysiological functions of young chess players. Material and methods 20 students (7-8 years old) of two different Ukrainian chess schools took part in the study. All of them attended chess lessons, but those from the experimental group (group E, 10 children) also did a set of general and special physical exercises during chess lectures, as compared to the kids from the control group (group K, 10 children). To monitor work efficiency and the speed of switching attention, an online platform, containing Schulte test and a test for determining the reaction time of choosing a point in space ("Ermakov test"), respectively, was employed. Results of the tests were compared using the independent-samples T-test. Results Statistically significant improvements in the values of the work efficiency and the average working time on the third Schulte table were revealed in the groups K and E after two months. The increase in the speed of switching attention was also statistically significant in both groups, however, in the group K this was observed only for the result of the first attempt of "Ermakov test", while in the group E - to the results of the first, the third attempts and average of three attempts. Overall, our data revealed an increase in the cognitive abilities of younger schoolchildren, who did physical exercises during chess classes, compared to those chess school students, who only solved chess problems, played chess and listened to chess lectures. Surprisingly, there was no statistically significant increase in the results of "Ermakov test" in group E compared to group K after two months. Conclusions The novelty of the results is as follows: i) work efficiency (according to the Schulte test) in the experimental group showed a statistically significant improvement, indicating the important role of physical exercises for the cognitive development of young chess players; ii) in turn, the increase in speed of switching attention (by "Ermakov test") of the children seemed to be independent on the physical training in the short-term period; iii) both the metacognitive approach for teaching chess, as well as regular physical training during chess lessons should result in the cognitive, psychophysiological development and, as consequence, in the improvement in chess performance of the young athletes.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Physical exercises improve cognitive abilities of 7-8 years old chess club’s students

Vus,

Kozina,

Sobko

et al. 2023

HSTRPT

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“…Therefore, it would seem appropriate to implement strength training programs in climbers. However, the results of the two included studies in this review had a relatively small sample size (n = 84) focusing on injuries of the elbows and shoulders (30,31). Correspondingly, these findings cannot be applied to injuries of the fingers, which is known to be the most common site of injury in climbers (14).…”

Section: Strength and Conditioning For Injury Preventionmentioning

confidence: 90%

“…These injury rates range across a diverse period from 6 months to whole career. Fifteen of the included studies investigated climbing injuries at specific anatomical sites, namely foot injuries/alterations (21, 23, 29), back pain (47), injuries of the shoulders (19,30), elbow injuries (31), the fingers and hands (22,32,34,43), Duputryen's disease (33), and upper extremity injuries (8,36,41). The remaining 19 studies investigated climbing injuries more broadly, and nine of these studies contained clear definitions of overuse injury within them (6,9,18,25,27,35,39,40,45,46).…”

Section: Injury Prevalence and Incidencementioning

confidence: 99%

“…Nine studies researched strength and conditioning measures as ether a risk factor or preventative strategy against climbing injuries (8, 22, 28, 30-32, 38, 42). Two studies reporting from the same randomized controlled trial (SQS: 18/32) showed that an injury prevention program based upon closed chain eccentric and strength exercises performed 3-4 times per week for one year, could reduce the likelihood of shoulder injuries (30) and elbow injuries (31). Additionally, prospective evidence (SQS: 14) suggests that weight training can reduce injuries in boulderers, although regular yoga practice had no positive effect (28).…”

Section: Strength and Conditioningmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers: a systematic review

Quarmby,

Zhang,

Geisler

et al. 2023

Front. Sports Act. Living

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IntroductionClimbing is an increasingly popular activity and imposes specific physiological demands on the human body, which results in unique injury presentations. Of particular concern are overuse injuries (non-traumatic injuries). These injuries tend to present in the upper body and might be preventable with adequate knowledge of risk factors which could inform about injury prevention strategies. Research in this area has recently emerged but has yet to be synthesized comprehensively. Therefore, the aim of this study was to conduct a systematic review of the potential risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers.MethodsThis systematic review was conducted in accordance with the PRISMA guidelines. Databases were searched systematically, and articles were deemed eligible based upon specific criteria. Research included was original and peer-reviewed, involving climbers, and published in English, German or Czech. Outcomes included overuse injury, and at least one or more variable indicating potential risk factors or injury prevention strategies. The methodological quality of the included studies was assessed with the Downs and Black Quality Index. Data were extracted from included studies and reported descriptively for population, climbing sport type, study design, injury definition and incidence/prevalence, risk factors, and injury prevention strategies.ResultsOut of 1,183 records, a total of 34 studies were included in the final analysis. Higher climbing intensity, bouldering, reduced grip/finger strength, use of a “crimp” grip, and previous injury were associated with an increased risk of overuse injury. Additionally, a strength training intervention prevented shoulder and elbow injuries. BMI/body weight, warm up/cool downs, stretching, taping and hydration were not associated with risk of overuse injury. The evidence for the risk factors of training volume, age/years of climbing experience, and sex was conflicting.DiscussionThis review presents several risk factors which appear to increase the risk of overuse injury in climbers. Strength and conditioning, load management, and climbing technique could be targeted in injury prevention programs, to enhance the health and wellbeing of climbing athletes. Further research is required to investigate the conflicting findings reported across included studies, and to investigate the effectiveness of injury prevention programs.Systematic Review Registrationhttps://www.crd.york.ac.uk/, PROSPERO (CRD42023404031).

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“…Most researchers use observation of boxers during a fight with the fixation of applied technical and tactical elements [8,9]. There is also a deeper analysis of the technical characteristics of each athlete on the basis of biomechanical indicators of individual movements [10,11,12]. But in modern boxing, this method is just beginning to be embodied in the practice of researching the movements of athletes of different styles.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Biomechanical and psychophysiological features of qualified veteran boxers of various fighting styles

Kozin¹,

Омельченко²,

Turchyk³

et al. 2022

HSR

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Purpose: to give a comparative description of the peculiarities of motor activity of boxers-veterans of different styles of fighting based on the analysis of psychophysiological and biomechanical parameters. Material and Methods: The study involved 42 qualified veteran boxers (age 45-50 years, body length - 178.67±8.26 cm, body weight - 70.96±9.38 kg). The biomechanical indicators of a direct blow in boxing were recorded using the Kinovea program, version 0.8.15, and psychophysiological indicators using the Psychodiagnostics program. As biomechanical indicators, the speed of movement of various points of the limbs and the angles in the joints were determined. As psychophysiological indicators, the speed of a simple visual-motor reaction, a reaction of choice in various testing modes was recorded. Based on these indicators, the mobility and endurance of the nervous system were determined. The reliability of differences between groups of different fighting styles was determined. Results. Tempo-style boxers differ from representatives of other fighting styles in their lower mobility of the nervous system and greater endurance for speedy and precise actions. Tempo-style boxers have the lowest values of the angle in the knee joint throughout the movement (p<0.05, p<0.01) and the highest speed of movement. Play style boxers are characterized by the greatest angle in the shoulder joint at the very beginning of the movement (p<0.05, p<0.001), the highest speed of fist and shoulder movement at the very beginning of the movement (p<0.001). Power style boxers develop maximum movement speed at the end of a straight punch compared to the beginning. Power style boxers are distinguished by the smallest values of the angle in the elbow joint, which is especially noticeable at the end of the movement (p<0.001). Conclusions. Psychophysiological features of boxers of different styles of fighting are reflected in the features of the technique of a direct blow. The lack of speed when tempo-style boxers are engaged in movement is supplemented and compensated by the high speed of movement. Play style boxers are characterized by high speed of movement at the very beginning of punching. Power style boxers are distinguished by the gradual development of movement speed.

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Injury prevention of student rock climbers based on the formation of rational technique of movements: a randomized control trial

Cited by 3 publications

References 24 publications

Physical exercises improve cognitive abilities of 7-8 years old chess club’s students

Physical exercises improve cognitive abilities of 7-8 years old chess club’s students

Risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers: a systematic review

Biomechanical and psychophysiological features of qualified veteran boxers of various fighting styles

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