Inhibitory effects of shell of Camellia oleifera Abel extract on mushroom tyrosinase and human skin melanin

Abstract

Summary Background As an oil production byproducts, the shell of Camellia oleifera Abel (SC) is usually discarded in the dump. However, previous investigations suggested that the SC could provide valuable bioactive materials. Objective The objectives of this study were to examine the ability of SC extract to inhibit in vitro tyrosinase activity and the melanin inhibition effects of cosmetic formulations containing SC 1,3‐butanediol extract in human volunteers. Methods The cell viability was determined using a WTT assay. A mushroom tyrosinase was used to evaluate the anti‐tyrosinase activity of the SC extract. The placebo (no extract) or test (SC 1,3‐butanediol extract) or positive control (kojic acid) cosmetic cream was applied on face of volunteers(30 female subjects) three times a day for 8 weeks. The active compounds in SC extract were screened using liquid chromatography‐high‐resolution mass spectrometry (UHPLC‐QTOF). Results The result showed that the cytotoxicity of SC extract is insignificant when the concentration of SC extract is below 160 µg/mL. In addition, SC extract dose dependently inhibited tyrosinase activity and SC 1,3‐butanediol extract possessed a stronger inhibitory activity than methanol extract and water extract. Clinical evaluations revealed that facial melanin levels of the volunteers receiving cosmetic formulations (containing SC 1,3‐butanediol extract) were decreased 59% from baseline in 6th weeks, whereas the placebo group showed no effect. SC 1,3‐butanediol extract was detected to contain 12 kaempferol compounds, significantly, kaempferol 3‐O‐[α‐rhamnopyranosyl‐(1→6)‐β‐glucopyranoside] and kaempferol‐3,7‐O‐α‐L‐dirhamnoside are the major compounds. Conclusion These results indicate that SC extract can be used as a natural skin‐whitening agent in cosmetic products.

Cosmetic and Pharmaceutic Products with Selected Natural and Synthetic Substances for Melasma Treatment and Methods of Their Analysis

“…Tyrosinase inhibition [125] Ferulic acid Phoenix dactylifera L. seed extract Inhibition of melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cells [126] Phenolic glycoside (gastrodin) Grammatophyllum speciosum pseudobulb extract Inhibition of melanin synthesis [127] Flavonoids, polyphenols, glycans, reducing sugars, chlorogenic acids…”

Searching for Natural Plants with Antimelanogenesis and Antityrosinase Properties for Cosmeceutical or Nutricosmetics Applications: A Systematic Review

“…The results showed that the 1,3-butanediol extract has the highest tyrosinase inhibition rate of 71.9%, compared to those of the methanol extract (49.2%) and water extract (39.3%). Kojic acid was used as the positive control in this study …”

Applications of Chinese Camellia oleifera and its By-Products: A Review

“…Previous studies have examined the ability of camellia shell extract to inhibit tyrosinase activity in vitro as well as the melanin inhibition of a cosmetic formula containing the extract in 30 female subjects. Camellia shell extract has been used as a skin whitening agent in cosmetic products ( Liu et al, 2019a ). Hu et al (2015) investigated the resistance of camellia shell to fungi and termites; the shells appeared to be toxic to fungi and termites but did not completely eradicate them ( Figure 4 ).…”