Cosmetic and Pharmaceutic Products with Selected Natural and Synthetic Substances for Melasma Treatment and Methods of Their Analysis

Abstract

Melasma is a fairly common condition that is the result of hyperpigmentation caused by increased melanin secretion. In the course of melasma, certain areas of the skin become darker than the rest of the epidermis. Although the pathogenesis remains incompletely clarified, several contributing factors have been identified, namely exposure to ultraviolet and visible light, family predisposition, pregnancy, and the use of exogenous hormones. Since current beauty standards associate healthy skin with its flawless and uniform color, people strive to eliminate any unaesthetic discoloration. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical products containing active substances with a whitening effect then become helpful. The most commonly used for this purpose are hydroquinone, arbutin, retinoids, organic acids (e.g., kojic, azelaic, and ellagic), and vitamins (B3, C, and E). However, the undesirable side effects they cause and the drive to replace synthetic chemicals with their natural counterparts have resulted in numerous reports on extracts of natural origin that exhibit skin-whitening effects. The purpose of this paper is to review the most recent scientific literature, which presents active substances of natural and synthetic origin with potential for the treatment of melasma. In addition, analytical techniques that can be used for qualitative and quantitative analysis of these substances present in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products will also be presented.

Management of Melasma: Laser and Other Therapies—Review Study

“…Natural substances with skin-whitening properties have emerged as potential treatments for melasma, offering alternatives to synthetic chemicals and their associated side effects. These extracts, sourced from plants, marine organisms, bacteria, and fungi, possess promising therapeutic qualities [ 44 ]. Among the plant-derived skin-whitening agents is the Korean red ginseng (KRG) that shows good tolerability and 100 beneficial effects for melasma [ 45 ].…”

Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review

“…In turn, Ferreyra et al points to the possibility of using grapevine woody by-products, such as bunch stems and canes, as a source of bioactive phenolic compounds with wellrecognized antioxidant, antimicrobial, antifungal, and anti-aging properties [89]. Particularly noteworthy in this group of compounds is trans-resveratrol, which is used in cosmetic formulations as an anti-aging and anti-hyperpigmentation ingredient which prevents skin discoloration by suppressing tyrosinase activity during melanogenesis [90][91][92]. Another phytochemical with strong antioxidant activity is ferulic acid, which can be also stabilized in cosmetic products in the form of lipid carriers [86] and liposomes [93].…”

“…Due to the smaller molecular structures of active substances in fermented raw materials, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties may be increased by improved bioavailability [149,[152][153][154]. Bioferments in cosmetic products may stimulate natural skin defence mechanisms, reduce consequences of photodamage, whiten the skin, help in rebuilding the skin barrier, support the wound healing process, reduce the symptoms of acne, and protect the skin against pollution and oxidative stress [92,155]. It is worth mentioning that fermentation is also used in order to obtain biosurfactants from kitchen waste oil, whey, utilized soy molasses, and olive oil mill waste.…”