Ingredients Tracking of Cosmetic Formulations in the Skin: A Confocal Raman Microscopy Investigation

Förster, M.; Bolzinger, Marie‐Alexandrine; Ach, Delphine; Montagnac, Gilles; Briançon, Stéphanie

doi:10.1007/s11095-010-0342-0

Cited by 47 publications

(24 citation statements)

References 50 publications

(68 reference statements)

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“…Furthermore, the addition of chitosan to the whey protein emulsions resulted in increased zeta potentials at all pH values, whereas the addition of carrageenan decreased the zeta potential. The results of the droplet size analyses were presented as volume weighted means (D [4,3]) and surface weighted means (D [3,2]). Table II shows that the Chi emulsions initially yielded the largest droplets (with volume weighted means between 25 and 46 μm on day 0), followed by whey and Car emulsions (with volume weighted means between 2 and 3 μm).…”

Section: Characterization Of Emulsionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Whey Protein/Polysaccharide-Stabilized Emulsions: Effect of Polymer Type and pH on Release and Topical Delivery of Salicylic Acid

2014

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Abstract. Emulsions are widely used as topical formulations in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. They are thermodynamically unstable and require emulsifiers for stabilization. Studies have indicated that emulsifiers could affect topical delivery of actives, and this study was therefore designed to investigate the effects of different polymers, applied as emulsifiers, as well as the effects of pH on the release and topical delivery of the active. O/w emulsions were prepared by the layer-by-layer technique, with whey protein forming the first layer around the oil droplets, while either chitosan or carrageenan was subsequently adsorbed to the protein at the interface. Additionally, the emulsions were prepared at three different pH values to introduce different charges to the polymers. The active ingredient, salicylic acid, was incorporated into the oil phase of the emulsions. Physical characterization of the resulting formulations, i.e., droplet size, zeta potential, stability, and turbidity in the water phase, was performed. Release studies were conducted, after which skin absorption studies were performed on the five most stable emulsions, by using Franz type diffusion cells and utilizing human, abdominal skin membranes. It was found that an increase in emulsion droplet charge could negatively affect the release of salicylic acid from these formulations. Contrary, positively charged emulsion droplets were found to enhance dermal and transdermal delivery of salicylic acid from emulsions. It was hypothesized that electrostatic complex formation between the emulsifier and salicylic acid could affect its release, whereas electrostatic interaction between the emulsion droplets and skin could influence dermal/transdermal delivery of the active.

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Section: Characterization Of Emulsionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Whey Protein/Polysaccharide-Stabilized Emulsions: Effect of Polymer Type and pH on Release and Topical Delivery of Salicylic Acid

2014

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“…So far, most studies relied on a relative method to deal with Raman signal attenuation. By applying this method, the intensity of a drug representing Raman peak is related to a skin derived Raman peak [12,18].…”

Section: (Equation 4)mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…One approach to overcome the influence of Raman signal attenuation in skin was already performed by relating the intensity of a drug Raman peak to the intensity of a skin derived Raman peak [12,18]. Unfortunately, potential inhomogenities due to the complex skin structure cannot be taken into consideration with this relative method.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Towards drug quantification in human skin with confocal Raman microscopy

Franzen

Selzer

Fluhr

et al. 2013

European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics

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CitationTowards drug quantification in human skin with confocal Raman microscopy. AbstractUnderstanding the penetration behavior of drugs into human skin is a prerequisite for the rational development and evaluation of effective dermal drug delivery.The general procedure for the acquisition of quantitative drug penetration profiles in human skin is performed by sequential segmentation and extraction. Unfortunately, this technique is destructive, laborious and lacks spatial resolution. Confocal Raman microscopy bares the potential of a chemically selective, label free and nondestructive analysis. However, the acquisition of quantitative drug depth profiles within skin by Raman microscopy is impeded by imponderable signal attenuation inside the tissue.In this study, we present a chemical semi-solid matrix system simulating the optical properties of human skin. This system serves as a skin surrogate for investigation of Raman signal attenuation under controlled conditions. Caffeine was homogeneously incorporated within the skin surrogate and Raman intensity depth profiles were acquired. A mathematical algorithm describing the Raman signal attenuation within the surrogate was derived from these profiles. Human skin samples were incubated with caffeine and Raman intensity depth profiles were similarly acquired. The surrogate algorithm was successfully applied to correct the drug profiles in human skin for signal attenuation. For the first time, a mathematical algorithm was established which allows correction of Raman signal attenuation in human skin, thus facilitating reliable drug quantification in human skin by confocal Raman spectroscopy.Keywords: confocal Raman microscopy, human skin, quantitative depth profiling, dermal drug delivery, skin surrogate, Raman signal attenuation 3

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“…Some emulsifiers contained in emulsion bases may penetrate into the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and act as penetration enhancers by increasing the stratum corneum permeability and/or the value of active substances partition coefficient skin/base [2,[45][46][47] .…”

Section: Emulsion Basesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Dermal and Transdermal Delivery of Active Substances from Semisolid Bases

Jankowski¹,

Dyja²,

Sarecka-Hujar³

2017

pharmaceutical-sciences

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Jankowski, et al.: Dermal and Transdermal Delivery from SemisolidsThe selection of a semisolid base type (hydrophobic, hydrophilic or emulsion) has an essential influence on the skin and transdermal delivery of active substances. The cutaneous and percutaneous absorption may be influenced by interactions occurring between base components and skin on the one hand and interactions between base components and the active ingredient on the other hand. The present article discusses the utility of different types of semisolid bases as carriers of active substances and summarizes results of studies comparing delivery of active substances from different semisolid bases.

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Ingredients Tracking of Cosmetic Formulations in the Skin: A Confocal Raman Microscopy Investigation

Abstract: Penetration behavior appeared to be dependent on the surfactant used in the formulation. CRM associated to the Franz cell method gives new insights on permeation of drug related to vehicle or ingredients.

Cited by 47 publications

References 50 publications

Whey Protein/Polysaccharide-Stabilized Emulsions: Effect of Polymer Type and pH on Release and Topical Delivery of Salicylic Acid

Whey Protein/Polysaccharide-Stabilized Emulsions: Effect of Polymer Type and pH on Release and Topical Delivery of Salicylic Acid

Towards drug quantification in human skin with confocal Raman microscopy

Dermal and Transdermal Delivery of Active Substances from Semisolid Bases

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