“…Food as a category (Rozin 1999), commensality (Miller et al 1988, Tapper andTapper 1986), dietary prescriptions (Douglas 1966, Feely-Harnik 1995 and classification (Levi-Strauss 1970), even cookbooks (Appadurai 1988, Symons 2009, are just some of the themes plucked at random from the anthropology of food (see Mintz andDubois 2002, Holtzman 2006 for reviews). Although food is only one of a plethora of markers of identity, it holds a special place amongst cultural symbols through both its indispensability and its polysensorial character, and the centrality of food to the production of identities is unquestioned (eg, Counihan 1999, Howell 2003, Preston-Werner 2009, Searles 2002. Associations of food, identity and memory often focus on specific forms of cooked foods and meals, and on ways of eating them; a concern with migration (or perhaps more accurately, mobilities), food practices and productions of identity has until recently (see, in addition to this collection, the 2010 special issue of Anthropology of Food 3 ) been either sporadic or peripheral.…”