History of sizing systems and ready-to-wear garments

Aldrich, Winifred

doi:10.1201/9781439824306.fmatt

Cited by 10 publications

(7 citation statements)

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“…"21 Her perceived deviations from the normative body were amplified by the emergent technology of standardized sizing. While the origins of standardized sizing can be located in the eighteenth century, and specifically in Europe where wars and colonial unrest resulted in the formation of large standing armies that required a vast amount of standardized uniforms, 22 Indeed, it would dramatically alter the ways about which the "normal" body was thought.…”

Section: T He S Tou T Body In T He Age Of S Ta Nda Rdiz At Ionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Body As Architecture: Designing the Stout Body in the Age of Standardization

Peters

2020

Fashion Studies

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This article explores the curious intersections of stoutwear design, Gestalt Psychology, and architectural discourse in early twentieth-century American fashion media. In doing so, it focuses principally on trade media, style guides and advertisements that grappled with the perceived flaws of the stout woman’s physique and how sophisticated design principles, if properly handled, could create the appearance of bodily slenderness. By moving beyond the biological determinism of contemporary obesity discourse, this article argues that ideas about stoutness and, more specifically, what constituted a stout body, were produced through attempts to contain, control, and correct the fat, female body in fashion design discourse. By further embedding this research within a broader consideration of the relationship between bodies, dress, architecture, and modernist design thinking, this article argues that the mediums and discourses of fashion can open up pathways for thinking about the body itself as “designed.”

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Section: T He S Tou T Body In T He Age Of S Ta Nda Rdiz At Ionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Body As Architecture: Designing the Stout Body in the Age of Standardization

Peters

2020

Fashion Studies

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“…In the UK, clothing was constructed on an individual basis well into the 20 th century (Kunick, 1984;Aldrich, 2007). This individual approach enabled the tailor or dressmaker to adjust garments for each specific wearer.…”

Section: Originality/valuementioning

confidence: 99%

“…The demand for ever increasing efficiencies creates a situation where personnel are expected to work shifts of 12-15 hours (Grose, 2013) and therefore decisions are often made under extreme pressure. In addition to this highly pressurised environment, problematic and underdeveloped systems such as those used to size mass-produced (Aldrich 2007;Ashdown 2014) clothing add to the risk that a product line will not sell. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59…”

Section: Speculative Practice Leading To Wastementioning

confidence: 99%

Fashion misfit: women’s dissatisfaction and its implications

Brownbridge¹,

Gill²,

Grogan

et al. 2018

JFMM

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“…They are historically based on common practice, as data on anthropometric measures from the population were not available to guide the development of the original systems. Further to this techniques and tools applied in modern pattern construction such as standard units of measure are examples of concurrent development which makes evolving theories difficult [2]. Therefore current pattern construction methods exhibit a fair amount of variation, as different practitioners develop independent theories based on their own experiences and fashion influences of the time.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Therefore current pattern construction methods exhibit a fair amount of variation, as different practitioners develop independent theories based on their own experiences and fashion influences of the time. As patterns are accepted to relate directly to the body and historically have been developed through draping as well as drafting [2][3][4], there is growing recognition that it should be possible to create these shapes directly from the body surface within virtual environments [5,6]. More recently methods have been proposed that provide more technologically developed solutions [7,8] though these still leave questions regarding pattern theory.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effectiveness of 3D Scanning in Establishing Sideseam Placement for Pattern Design

Brownbridge¹,

Gill²,

Ashdown³

2013

Proceedings of the 4th International Conference on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Long Beach CA, USA, 19-20 November 2013

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As woven garments are cut from flat pieces of cloth, pattern cutting methods must create flat 2D shapes that are constructed to form 3D garments that fit a particular body shape. The placement of sideseams represents a key division of the pattern where the front and back portions of a garment relating to a particular body measurement are distributed to create a balanced garment. During most pattern creation methods the distribution of the measurement into back and front arcs is proportionally determined by the author, however body scanning provides new opportunities to understand the body and derive these arcs during the measurement process. TC2 measurement software provides the facility to automatically derive arcs based on non-disclosed divisions of the body along a vertical plane. This research tests the automated division of key circumferences into arcs using the TC2 software, against methods guided by practitioner experience and placed using non-automated 3D software. Focusing on circumferences of the bust, waist and hip, analysis of the arcs derived by the scanner from a number of standard female body forms and 10 scans of female subjects, will be tested against those determined by a panel of experts. These methods form the basis for an understanding of how circumference division can be automated and allow for the testing of these methods on a variety of different scans and the comparison of the arcs against those proposed or applied in standard industry practice. It will be possible to see how closely these methods match or contrast with these imposed systems. This exploration provides a clear link to body pattern relationships and provides a foundation from which to advance mass customization utilizing body scanning technology and automated arc definition.

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History of sizing systems and ready-to-wear garments

Cited by 10 publications

References 0 publications

Body As Architecture: Designing the Stout Body in the Age of Standardization

Body As Architecture: Designing the Stout Body in the Age of Standardization

Fashion misfit: women’s dissatisfaction and its implications

Effectiveness of 3D Scanning in Establishing Sideseam Placement for Pattern Design

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