Hindcasting the Directional Spectra of Hurricane Generated Waves

Cardone, Vincent J.; Pierson, Willard J.; Ward, E.G.

doi:10.4043/2332-ms

Cited by 17 publications

(9 citation statements)

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“…The characteristics of several large ocean wave events have also been analyzed in detail using an approach known as hindcasting. Such studies use archived meteorological and wave data at the location of the event under study to determine initial conditions for a forward-propagating wave model [133]. The aim is to use the model to simulate the wave field characteristics at later times and compare quantitatively with a measured wave record.…”

Section: B Rogue Waves In the Natural Environmentmentioning

confidence: 99%

Rogue waves and analogies in optics and oceanography

et al. 2019

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We review the study of rogue waves and related instabilities in optical and oceanic environments, with particular focus on recent experimental developments. In optics, we emphasize results arising from the use of real-time measurement techniques, whilst in oceanography we consider insights obtained from analysis of real-world ocean wave data and controlled experiments in wave tanks. Although significant progress in understanding rogue waves has been made based on an analogy between wave dynamics in optics and hydrodynamics, these comparisons have predominantly focused on one-dimensional nonlinear propagation scenarios. As a result, there remains significant debate about the dominant physical mechanisms driving the generation of ocean rogue waves in the complex environment of the open sea. Here, we review stateof-the-art of rogue wave studies in optics and hydrodynamics, aiming to clearly identify similarities and differences between the results obtained in the two fields. In hydrodynamics, we take care to review results that support both nonlinear and linear interpretations of ocean rogue wave formation, and in optics, we also summarise results from an emerging area of research applying the measurement techniques developed for the study of rogue waves to dissipative soliton systems. We conclude with a discussion of important future research directions. the underlying carrier wave is considered sinusoidal at frequency ω whereas in hydrodynamics, the NLSE envelope modulates the Stokes wave which (to second-order) contains contributions at both ω and the second harmonic 2ω [31]. In addition, even though the terminology "optical wave breaking" is used in an NLSE context to describe the steepening of an optical envelope from nonlinear focussing [32], optical carrier waves themselves do not "break" or plunge as they do in hydrodynamics [33,34]. There are also important differences concerning measurements. Specifically, experiments in optical fibres generally measure only the time-domain envelope intensity, and information about carrier oscillations is not recorded. In contrast, measurements in hydrodynamics directly record the individual carrier wave amplitudes (although envelope information can be reconstructed straightforwardly [35]). Particular care must therefore be taken when comparing statistics between optics and hydrodynamics, because statistics in fibre optics experiments are determined

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Section: B Rogue Waves In the Natural Environmentmentioning

confidence: 99%

Rogue waves and analogies in optics and oceanography

et al. 2019

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“…[7] A number of directional measurements of hurricane waves have been previously reported during the passage of individual storms, using a range of in situ instruments [e.g., Cardone and Pierson, 1975;Forristall et al, 1978;Black, 1979;Forristall and Ward, 1980]. Although these measurements have provided valuable data, the spatial extent of the observations has been far too limited to provide a detailed understanding of the hurricane wave field.…”

Section: Directional Wave Field In Hurricanesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The corresponding data set of the directional properties within hurricanes is much more limited. In situ measurements using directional wave buoys and wave gauge arrays for a small number of storms exists [e.g., Cardone and Pierson, 1975;Forristall et al, 1978;Black, 1979;Forristall and Ward, 1980]. More extensive remote sensing information, providing spatial coverage of the mean wave direction has been obtained by Elachi et al [1977], King and Shemdin [1978], Holt and Gonzalez [1986], Wright et al [2001] and Walsh et al [2002].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Directional spectra of hurricane wind waves

2006

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[1] A comprehensive directional wave buoy data set showing the directional wave spectrum during the passage of a number of hurricanes is presented. The data confirm remote sensing measurements, showing that waves in the forward quadrants of the storm are dominated by swell radiating out from the intense wind regions to the right of the storm centre. The data show that for almost all quadrants of the storm, the dominant waves are remotely generated swell. The directional spectra are composed of swell at low frequency (the dominant waves) and locally generated waves above approximately three times the spectral peak frequency. There is, however, no tendency for the spectrum to become bi-modal in either frequency or direction. Rather, the spectra are directionally skewed, with a smooth directional transition from low frequency to high frequency. As for uni-directional wind field cases, the spectra are narrowest at the spectral peak frequency and broaden at frequencies above and below the peak. Despite the fact that much of the wave field is dominated by swell, the spectral width, as a function of non-dimensional frequency is very similar to that reported for uni-directional wind fields. The one-dimensional spectrum can be approximated by the parametric form proposed by Donelan et al. (1985). The parameters defining the spectrum also follow the same functional dependence as that reported for uni-directional winds. The fact that both the one-dimensional and directional spectra are very similar to spectra reported under simple uni-directional winds is interpreted as being a result of the shape stabilization effects of non-linear interactions. The data exhibit these same functional forms at low frequencies where they can be receiving no significant local input from the wind. This result indicates that the spectral shape is being controlled almost completely by the non-linear interactions with input and dissipation terms of lesser importance. This result indicates that input and dissipation are important in determining the total quantity of energy in the wave field, but appear to play only a minor role in determining the spectral shape.

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“…During a recorded interval, the wind direction generally was from the north at least once. This caused the wind-direction sensor output to shift from zero to full scale and provided a means for checking this sensor's calibration, 5. The wind speed, barring direct-current shifts, usually will drop to zero at one point during a tape.…”

Section: Calibration Of Absolute-vahtementioning

confidence: 99%

Ocean Data Gathering Program - Quality and Reduction of Data

Hamilton¹,

Ward

1976

Journal of Petroleum Technology

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Data collected from six offshore platforms in the Gulf of Mexico from 1968 to 1971 during the Ocean Data Gathering Program are probably the most complete set of wind and wave measurements available off the Louisiana coast. The data and their quality, calibration, and usability, are discussed with an eye toward familiarizing the potential user with the possibilities of the system. Introduction In 1968, eight oil companies began collecting oceanographic and meteorological data in the Gulf of Mexico. This program was called the Ocean Data Gathering Program (ODGP). It was sponsored by Shell Development Co., Amoco Production Co., Chevron oil Co., Exxon Co. Production Co., Chevron oil Co., Exxon Co. U.S.A., Mobil Oil Corp., Gulf Oil Corp Texaco Inc., and the CAGC Marine Region. Shell was the program administrator. The design, fabrication, installation, maintenance, and operation of the instrumentation was contracted to the Baylor Co. of Houston. Baylor also was responsible for reporting on the data obtained and for analyzing data collected during significant storms. The ODGP obtained data for 31 months between Oct. 1968 and Nov. 1971. The basic program has been described by Patterson, Ives and Ward. Data on wave heights, wind speed and direction, and barometric pressure were recorded continuously from six offshore pressure were recorded continuously from six offshore oilproduction platforms along the Louisiana coast. Data were obtained during major storms and under more nominal conditions. The locations of the six stations and the tracks of the major storms that occurred during the ODGP are shown in Fig. 1. Although many problems were encountered, the ODGP was a successful program that gathered the most complete set of wind, wave, and barometric-pressure data collected to date in the Gulf of Mexico. These data include one of the more extensive sets of severe seastate data available. Some examples of future uses of the ODGP include studies involving the hindcasting of hurricane winds and waves, probabilistic descriptions of characteristics of extreme waves, wave spectra, storm surge, and the persistence of nominal wind and wave conditions in the Gulf. Refs. 4 through 9 deal with some of these examples. The data obtained by the ODGP are available to the public. The purpose of this paper is to provide public. The purpose of this paper is to provide information of interest to potential users of these data. The data obtained, the instrumentation used, and the accuracy, quality, calibration, and format of these data are described. Specific details are summarized for one of the six ODGP stations (Station 5). Ref. 10 presents more complete details for all six stations. Instrumentation One of the objectives of this paper is to give the potential data user a basic understanding of the potential data user a basic understanding of the instrumentation used to measure the data. For this reason, the auxiliary equipment is not discussed. The stations' power systems and the instruments used to measure and to record the data are described briefly. Power Systems Power Systems The instrumentation for each station had to be completely self-contained, with the exception that platform power could be used if available, provided platform power could be used if available, provided that 100 hours of standby operation were available from standby batteries. Five stations were able to use platform power while the sixth had to provide its own power source. Three basic power systems were used on the ODGP stations. JPT P. 337

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Hindcasting the Directional Spectra of Hurricane Generated Waves

Cited by 17 publications

References 0 publications

Rogue waves and analogies in optics and oceanography

Rogue waves and analogies in optics and oceanography

Directional spectra of hurricane wind waves

Ocean Data Gathering Program - Quality and Reduction of Data

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