Hemodynamic and Cardiorespiratory Predictors of Sport Rock Climbing Performance

Abstract

Fryer, SM, Giles, D, Garrido Palomino, I, de la O Puerta, A, and España-Romero, V. Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance. J Strength Cond Res 32(12): 3543-3550, 2018-Rock climbing performance has been suggested to involve a notable contribution from aerobic metabolism. Previously, it has been shown that forearm oxygenation kinetics can be used to distinguish ability groups and predict red-point sport climbing performance. Currently, it is not known if forearm oxygenation kinetics or a sport-specific assessment of cardiorespiratory fitness best predicts sport rock climbing performance. The aim of the study was to determine whether forearm oxidative capacity index, maximal deoxygenation (Δ score) during a treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O2peak test, treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O2peak, or running V[Combining Dot Above]O2max best predicts self-reported sport climbing performance. Twenty-one male sport rock climbers completed a treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O2peak, running V[Combining Dot Above]O2max, and an assessment of near-infrared spectroscopy-derived oxidative capacity index. Linear regression, adjusted for age and experience (years), revealed that forearm oxidative capacity index, treadwall maximal deoxygenation (Δ), and treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O2peak all significantly predicted self-reported red-point sport climbing ability (Adj R = -0.398, -0.255, and 0.374, respectively), whereas treadmill running V[Combining Dot Above]O2max did not (Adj R = -0.052). Additionally, multiple regression suggested that the combined significant aerobic predictors accounted for 67% of the variance in red-point climbing ability. Findings suggest that training for sport rock climbing performance should look to incorporate modalities that focus on (a) improving local forearm aerobic capacity and (b) improving whole-body aerobic capacity using sport-specific apparatus, such as treadwalls.

The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers

“…Rock climbing requires repeated isometric contractions of the finger flexors, which are responsible for flexion of the metacarpophalangeal and interphalangeal joints 1 . These contractions cause regular periods of ischemia in the forearms; the extent of this ischemia and the subsequent recovery from it has been shown to differentiate ability groups of rock climbers 2 , disciplines 3 and is likely to be a trainable characteristic 4 . As such, the fatigue resistance of the finger flexors is considered one of the most important factors in climbing performance.…”

“…However, there is a paucity of data describing the use of CF tests in climbers, specifically for the finger flexors. While the importance of fatigue resistance of the finger flexors in climbers has been investigated 2,11 , this is the first study to utilise a threshold test applicable to climbing populations. Kellawan and Tschakovsky 10 have previously described a methodology for the determination of CF in the forearms, using grip dynamometry.…”

Effects of New Zealand blackcurrant extract on sport climbing performance

“…Previous observations of improved muscle endurance/sporting performance following consumption of NZBC have been explained with an associated increase in blood flow and potentially anthocyanin induced changes in sodium-potassium pump function. It has been established that oxygenation influences climbing performance (Fryer et al 2018) and it is most likely that the oxygenation of the muscle is dependent upon muscle blood flow,…”

Attentional Differences as a Function of Rock Climbing Performance

“…Climbing ability was reported as the best grade achieved 6 months prior to the study. Self-report has been used for on-sight and red-point performance extensively within the literature (Baláš et al, 2017;Fryer et al, 2017;Zarattini et al, 2018). It has been shown to be a valid assessment of on-sight ability level (Draper et al, 2011a).…”