Following 24-h sleep deprivation, creatine supplementation had a positive effect on mood state and tasks that place a heavy stress on the prefrontal cortex.

Rock climbing is a popular adventure sport with an increasing research base. Early studies in the field did not make comparisons of ascents using different styles of climbing. More recently, differences in the physiological responses for an onsight lead climb and subsequent lead climb have been reported. The purpose of the present study was to examine the effect of style of climb (lead climb or top rope climb) on the physiological and psychological responses to rock climbing. Nine intermediate climbers volunteered for, and completed, two randomly assigned climbing trials and a maximum oxygen uptake (VO 2max ) test on a separate occasion. The climbers ascended the same 6a (sport grade) climb for both trials. Before climbing, heart rate, perception of anxiety (Revised Competitive State Anxiety Inventory-2), and blood lactate concentration were measured. Climb time, heart rate, VO 2 , lactate concentrations, and task load (National Aeronautics and Space Administration Task Load Index) in response to each trial were also recorded. Results indicated significant differences (PB0.05) between the trials for climb time, blood lactate concentration immediately after and 15 min after climbing, and heart rate 1 min after climbing. During lead and top rope climbing, mean VO 2 and represented 44% and 42% of treadmill VO 2max and mean heart rate represented 81% and 77% of maximum heart rate, respectively. There were no significant differences in feelings of anxiety before either climb, although climbers reported the lead climb to be physically and mentally more demanding, requiring more effort and resulting in greater frustration (P B0.05) than the top rope climb. Our results indicate that the physiological and psychological responses of intermediate climbers are different for a lead climb and top rope climb.

Objectives: To examine how different safety rope protocols impact on subjective anxiety and self-confidence levels and plasma cortisol concentrations and the relationship between subjective states and cortisol during rock climbing. Methods: Participants (n = 12) were tested in three climbing conditions that were designed to invoke low, moderate and high physical and mental stress. Plasma cortisol concentrations were collected before and after climbing and participants reported subjective anxiety and self-confidence states for each climb.Results: Repeated measures analysis of variance showed significant differences between conditions for somatic anxiety (F 2, 22 = 7.74, p = 0.009), self-confidence (F 2, 22 = 9.52, p = 0.001) and change in plasma cortisol concentration (F 2, 22 = 3.71, p = 0.041). Preplanned polynomial comparisons showed that these were linear effects; somatic anxiety was higher in the higher stress conditions whilst self-confidence was lower. Plasma cortisol concentration change was also linear. Regression analyses showed cubic relationships between plasma cortisol concentration and cognitive anxiety (R 2 = 0.452), self-confidence (R 2 = 0.281) and somatic anxiety (R 2 = 0.268). Conclusions: There is a relationship between plasma cortisol concentration and subjective anxiety and selfconfidence states during rock climbing. Changes in the way the safety rope is organised can impact on anxiety, cortisol concentration and self-confidence during rock climbing.

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The primary purpose of this study was to examine, using meta-analytical measures, whether research into the performance of whole-body, psychomotor tasks following moderate and heavy exercise demonstrates an inverted-U effect. A secondary purpose was to compare the effects of acute exercise on tasks req . There was a significant difference (Zdiff = 4.29, p = 0.001, R2 = 0.42) between the mean effect size for moderate intensity exercise (g = 0.15) and that for heavy exercise size (g = -0.86). These data suggest a catastrophe effect during heavy exericse. Mean effect size for static tasks (g = -1.24) was significantly different (Zdiff = 3.24, p = 0.001, R2 = 0.90) to those for dynamic/ballistic tasks (g = -0.30). The result for the static versus dynamic tasks moderating variables point to perception being more of an issue than peripheral fatigue for maintenance of static posture. The difference between this result and those found in meta-analyses examining the effects of acute exercise on cognition show that, when perception and action are combined, the complexity of the interaction induces different effects to when cognition is detached from motor performance. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 2 Abstract 22 23 The primary purpose of this study was to examine, using meta-analytical measures, whether 24 research into the performance of whole-body, psychomotor tasks following moderate and 25 heavy exercise demonstrates an inverted-U effect. A secondary purpose was to compare the 26 effects of acute exercise on tasks requiring static maintenance of posture versus dynamic, 27 ballistic skills. Moderate intensity exercise was determined as being between 40% and 79% 28 maximum power output (W MAX ) or equivalent, while ≥80% W MAX was considered to be 29heavy. There was a significant difference (Z diff = 4.29, p = 0.001, R 2 = 0.42) between the 30 mean effect size for moderate intensity exercise (g = 0.15) and that for heavy exercise size (g 31 = -0.86). These data suggest a catastrophe effect during heavy exericse. Mean effect size for 32 static tasks (g = -1.24) was significantly different (Z diff = 3.24, p = 0.001, R 2 = 0.90) to those 33 for dynamic/ballistic tasks (g = -0.30). The result for the static versus dynamic tasks 34 moderating variables point to perception being more of an issue than peripheral fatigue for 35 maintenance of static posture. The difference between this result and those found in meta-36 analyses examining the effects of acute exercise on cognition show that, when perception and 37 action are combined, the complexity of the interaction induces different effects to when 38 cognition is detached from motor performance. 39

Purpose Blood flow to skeletal muscles and removal of metabolic by-products during a sport climb are essential to optimise performance and recovery. New Zealand blackcurrant 2 (NZBC) extract enhanced blood flow and performance in other exercise modalities. We examined the effect of NZBC extract on sport climbing performance and recovery. Methods The study employed a double-blind, randomized, cross-over design. Male sport climbers (n=18, age 24±6 yrs, height 179±6 cm, mass 71.4±7.8 kg, French grade 6a-8b) undertook 7 days supplementation of NZBC extract (600 mg•day-1 CurraNZ™ containing 210 mg anthocyanins) or a placebo (PL). Climbing ability was assessed through hang time (HT), pull-ups and total climbing time (TCT) in 3 intermittent climbing bouts on a Treadwall M6 rotating climbing wall to exhaustion with 20 min recovery between climbs. Heart rate (HR), blood lactate (BL), forearm girth (FG) and hand grip strength (HGS) were recorded. Results NZBC extract had no effect on pull-ups but provided a trend for higher HT and significantly improved TCT (+23%) compared to PL (-11%) over 3 climbs. HR, BL, FG and HGS all indicated that 20 minutes was insufficient for physiological recovery between the 3 climbing bouts indicating accumulative fatigue regardless of condition. Conclusion Despite indices of progressive fatigue across 3 bouts of climbing, NZBC extract facilitated not only a maintenance of TCT but an improved climbing endurance as compared with the PL condition. Blackcurrant anthocyanin-derived metabolites seems to affect physiological responses that facilitate sport climbing performance.

Rock climbing is a popular adventure sport for which there is a growing body of scientific knowledge. There is, however, a lack of sport-specific assessment tools to monitor performance. The aim of this study was to examine the potential of the rock-over climbing test (ROCT) as a measure of climbing performance. The ROCT was conducted on a climbaflex board and involved the climber making a rock-over move for which the height gained from lower to upper handhold was measured. Results indicated there was a significant relationship between scaled (to the height of the climber) ROCT scores and climbing ability (r 00.67, P B0.0005). Regression modelling revealed that the ROCT explained 45% of the variance in scores between climbers. The ROCT differentiated between climber ability levels. Mean ROCT scores for novice, intermediate, advanced, and elite climbers were 59.5%, 71%, 82%, and 90% of participant height respectively. Results of analysis of variance revealed that these differences were significant (F 3,42 013.38, P B0.0005). Limits of agreement and intra-class correlation indicated that the ROCT is a reliable performance measure. Our findings suggest that the ROCT is a useful measure of climbing performance.