Hand–arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance

Baláš, Jiří; Pecha, Ondřej; Martin, Andrew J.; Cochrane, Darryl J.

doi:10.1080/17461391.2010.546431

Cited by 88 publications

(106 citation statements)

References 21 publications

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“…Finger flexor endurance has been found to be closely related to lead climbing performance (Baláš, Pecha, Martin & Cochrane, 2012); whilst boulderers have been found to have greater relative finger flexor strength and rates of force development than lead climbers (Fanchini et al, 2013;Michailov et al, 2009). It is assumed that different forearm muscle adaptations are related to bouldering and lead climbing training.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contractions in rock climbers

Kodejška¹,

Michailov²,

Baláš³

2016

Auc Kinanthropologica

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Background. Bouldering and lead climbing are divergent disciplines of the sport of rock climbing. Bouldering moves are short and powerful, whilst sport climbing is longer and require a greater degree of endurance.Aim. The aim of this study was to compare forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contraction between lead climbers (LC) and boulderers (BO).Methods. Eight BO and twelve LC completed maximal finger flexor strength test and sustained contractions to exhaustion at 60% of maximum voluntary contraction (MVC).Differences between BO and LC in maximal strength, time to exhaustion, force time integral (FTI), and tissue oxygenation (SmO 2 ) were assessed by t-test for independent samples.Results. LC showed significantly lower level of average tissue oxygenation (BO 38.9% SmO 2 , s = 7.4; LC 28.7% SmO 2 , s = 7.1) and maximal tissue deoxygenation (BO 25.6% SmO 2 , s = 8.2; LC 13.5% SmO 2 , s = 8.5). LC demonstrated significantly lower finger flexor strength (519 N, s = 72) than BO (621 N, s = 142). LC sustained a longer time of contraction (not significantly) (BO 52.2 s, s = 11.5; LC 60.6 s, s = 13) and achieved a similar value of FTI (BO 17421 Ns, s = 4291; LO 17476 Ns, s = 5036) in the endurance test.Conclusions. The results showed lower deoxygenation during sustained contraction in BO than LC despite similar FTI, indicating different local metabolic pathways in both groups.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contractions in rock climbers

Kodejška¹,

Michailov²,

Baláš³

2016

Auc Kinanthropologica

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“…Again we see wide discrepancies between studies and this can be very problematic for making comparison between studies (Schoeffl et al, 2004;Fryer et al, 2012;Baláš, et al, 2012;Donath et al, 2013;Fanchini et al, 2013;Green, Draper & Helton, 2013;Schöffl et al, 2013). In addition to the normal data collected such as age, gender, body mass and height, to better inform readers of future research papers and to facilitate comparison between studies a number of regular characteristics should be reported by authors.…”

Section: Climber Characteristics: Capturing the Groupmentioning

confidence: 99%

Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

et al. 2015

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The research base for rock climbing has expanded substantially in the past 3 decades as worldwide interest in the sport has grown. An important trigger for the increasing research attention has been the transition of the sport to a competitive as well as recreational activity and the potential inclusion of sport climbing in the Olympic schedule. The International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) was formed in 2011 to bring together climbers, coaches and researchers to share knowledge and promote collaboration. This position statement was developed during and after the 2 nd IRCRA Congress which was held in Pontresina, in September 2014. The aim of the position statement is to bring greater uniformity to the descriptive and statistical methods used in reporting rock climbing research findings. To date there is a wide variation in the information provided by researchers regarding the climbers' characteristics and also in the approaches employed to convert from climbing grading scales to a numeric scale suitable for statistical analysis. Our paper presents details of recommended standards of reporting that should be used for reporting climber characteristics and provides a universal scale for the conversion of climbing grades to a number system for statistical analysis.

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“…For example, Baláš, J. et al [7], who studied body composition, muscular strength and endurance of sport mountaineers, determined presence of correlations between these components. Authors outlined the most informative indicators, which included strength of grab, hanging on bent arms and fingers, content of fat, rock climbing experience (dispersion 97%).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Studying of interconnectios of morphological functional indicators of students, who practice martial arts

Podrіgalo

Єрмаков

Alekseev

et al. 2016

PES

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Abstract. Purpose: to study interconnections of students' morphological functional indicators and their influence on level of sportsmanship. Material: in the research 17 students, practicing martial arts, participated. 62 indicators were determined: anthropometrical, goniometrical criteria of arms joints' status; tapping test and maximal frequency of grabs in impulse mode. Results: we found that maximal contribution in system is made by hand dynamometry of right and left hands, body length and mass, chest circumference, width of shoulders; maximal frequency of grabs by right and left hands. It was confirmed that there are correlations between students' morphological functional indicators. The highest contribution to formation of functional system is characteristic for anthropometric indicators. Results of maximal grabs in impulse mode made rather sufficient contribution in system's formation that is confirmed by great quantity of correlations. Analysis of character, strength and orientation of correlations witnesses about informative potential of this test and permits to recommend it as screening for control of sportsmen's state. Conclusions: we determined that indicators of hand dynamometry system formation illustrate that for martial arts wrestlers strong grab was very important. It is ensured by strength of hand muscles.

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Hand–arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance

Cited by 88 publications

References 21 publications

Forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contractions in rock climbers

Forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contractions in rock climbers

Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

Studying of interconnectios of morphological functional indicators of students, who practice martial arts

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