Hair Conditioners

Reich, Charles F.; Su, Dean; Kozubal, Cheryl; Lü, Zhi

doi:10.1201/b15273-68

Cited by 2 publications

(2 citation statements)

References 20 publications

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“…In some cases, only 50% of the deposited silicone was removed after three washes. It is widely understood that amodimethicones and silicone quats have the greatest substantivity to the hair (in comparison with non‐polar dimethicones) . As a consequence, there is a greater risk of build‐up with these ingredients and formulators need to use them with great care.…”

Section: Cleansing Properties Of Surfactantsmentioning

confidence: 99%

A review of shampoo surfactant technology: consumer benefits, raw materials and recent developments

Cornwell

2017

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

130

107

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Surfactants form the core of all shampoo formulations, and contribute to a wide range of different benefits, including cleansing, foaming, rheology control, skin mildness and the deposition of benefit agents to the hair and scalp. The purpose of this review was to assist the design of effective, modern, shampoo surfactant technologies. The mechanisms through which surfactants help deliver their effects are presented, along with the appraisal techniques through which surfactant options can be tested and screened for product development. The steps that should be taken to select the most appropriate blend of surfactants are described, and useful information on the most widely used surfactants is provided. The review concludes with an examination of recent developments in 'greener' surfactants, 'sulphate-free' technologies and structured liquid phases for novel sensory properties and for suspending benefit agents.R esum e Les agents tensioactifs sont les ingr edients de base de la plupart des shampooings, et contribuent de nombreuses mani eres a leurs performances et sp ecificit es : qualit e nettoyante, onctuosit e de la mousse, control de la rh eologie, sensation cutan ee ou bien d eposition d'actifs sur les cheveux ou le cuire chevelue. Le but de cette revue est d'apporter une assistance pour l' elaboration de surfactants innovants pour le d eveloppement de nouveaux produits capillaires. Les m ecanismes par lesquels les agents tensioactifs d elivrent leurs b en efices sont discut es, ainsi que les diff erentes techniques disponibles pour les tester et les s electionner dans le cadre de l' elaboration de nouveaux produits. Les diff erentes etapes qui devraientêtre prises en consid erations pour s electionner les agents tensioactifs les plus appropri es y sont d ecrites ainsi qu'une section r esumant les informations relatives aux agents tensioactifs les plus utilis es actuellement. En conclusion, la revue pr esente les d eveloppements r ecents autour de nouveaux agents ecologiques (ou « vert »), des technologies « sans sulfate » et des technologies « structured liquid phases » qui procurent de nouvelles propri et es sensorielles ou de suspensions.

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Section: Cleansing Properties Of Surfactantsmentioning

confidence: 99%

A review of shampoo surfactant technology: consumer benefits, raw materials and recent developments

Cornwell

2017

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

130

107

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

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“…Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) are often employed as conditioning materials in both shampoo and conditioner applications to improve dry hair feel. However, it is known that, in the case of more hydrophilic, damaged hair, large particle (>5 μm) PDMS deposition is greatly reduced and cannot provide the same benefit in hair conditioning as for undamaged or virgin hair [5]. Large particle silicone relies on the surface energy of hair for the silicones to adhere and spread on hair.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Liquid crystal colloidal structures for increased silicone deposition efficiency on colour‐treated hair

Brown

Hutchins

Gamsky

et al. 2010

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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An approach is described to increase the deposition efficiency of silicone conditioning actives from a shampoo on colour-treated hair via liquid crystal (LC) colloidal structures, created with a high charge density cationic polymer, poly(diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride) and negatively charged surfactants. LCs are materials existing structurally between the solid crystalline and liquid phases, and several techniques, including polarized light microscopy, small angle X-Ray analysis, and differential scanning calorimetry, were used to confirm the presence of the LC structures in the shampoo formula. Silicone deposition from the LC-containing shampoo and a control shampoo was measured on a range of hair substrates, and data from inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectroscopy analysis and ToF-SIMS imaging illustrate the enhancement in silicone deposition for the LC shampoo on all hair types tested, with the most pronounced enhancement occurring on hair that had undergone oxidative treatments, such as colouring. A model is proposed in which the LC structure deposits from the shampoo onto the hair to: (i) provide 'slip planes' along the hair surface for wet conditioning purposes and (ii) form a hydrophobic layer which changes the surface energy of the fibres. This increase in hydrophobicity of the hair surface thereby increases the deposition efficiency of silicone conditioning ingredients. Zeta potential measurements, dynamic absorbency testing analysis and ToF-SIMS imaging were used to better understand the mechanisms of action. This approach to increasing silicone deposition is an improvement relative to conventional conditioning shampoos, especially for colour-treated hair.

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Hair Conditioners

Cited by 2 publications

References 20 publications

A review of shampoo surfactant technology: consumer benefits, raw materials and recent developments

A review of shampoo surfactant technology: consumer benefits, raw materials and recent developments

Liquid crystal colloidal structures for increased silicone deposition efficiency on colour‐treated hair

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