A review of shampoo surfactant technology: consumer benefits, raw materials and recent developments

Cornwell, P.A.

doi:10.1111/ics.12439

Cited by 130 publications

(125 citation statements)

References 32 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

107

Contrasting

Unclassified

Order By: Relevance

“…The reduction of sebum content is related to the shampoo surfactants composition, once their most important function is to clean the hair. 18 The shampoo formulation vehicle and containing microalgae effectively cleaned the hair. Besides that sebum production can be altered by weather, diet and age, this way the sebum production of the participants during the test may have been modified by one of these factors.…”

Section: Tensile Testmentioning

confidence: 99%

Development of hair care formulations containing Spirulina platensis and Ascophyllum nodosum extracts

Silva¹,

Leite²,

Campos³

2019

Int J Phytocos Nat Ingred

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Introduction Hair appearance and hair care are related with self-steam and quality of life. The way hair looks it is important for women and men and can impact in self-image. 1,2 At the same time, oiliness is a condition that also affects negatively the image and self-esteem. Caused by the excessive oil production in enlarged sebaceous glands, oiliness gives skin and hair scalp a greasy appearance. 3 This way, as oiliness is a constant concern, the search for active substances that helps in oiliness control it's a challenge for Research & Development area. Seaweeds are much known for its use as foods, mainly in East Asian countries as Japan, China and Korea. Despite its use as food, seaweeds have potential to be applied in nutrition, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries due to its rich composition. Microalgae are a type of seaweeds that convert solar light in bioactive compounds attractive for commercial interest. 4,5 In this context, Spirulina platensis and Ascophyllum nodosum are microalgaes have potential to be used in cosmetics, due to its countless properties. The Spirulina platensis used in our research is obtained by biotechnological process and is rich in pro-vitamin A, vitamins of the B complex, pigments, minerals, proteins, fatty acids, amino acids and polysaccharides as glucose, galactose, mannose and ribose. 6 Ascophyllum nodosum is rich in vitamins A, B and C, minerals, proteins, fatty acids, pigment, amino acids and aspartic and glutamic acids. 7,8 Considering Spirulina platensis and Ascophyllum nodosum composition, they have anti-bacterial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. 4,6,7 Considering the rich composition and properties of Spirulina platensis and Ascophyllum nodosum, previous studies of our research group 9,10 showed that microalgae have potential to act in skin and hair oiliness control and in the improvement of hair fiber conditions providing better nutrition, hydration and strengthening.

show abstract

Section: Tensile Testmentioning

confidence: 99%

Development of hair care formulations containing Spirulina platensis and Ascophyllum nodosum extracts

Silva¹,

Leite²,

Campos³

2019

Int J Phytocos Nat Ingred

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates (like SLS and SLES) are commonly used in personal care, but they are sometimes linked to skin and eye irritation while there are also safety concerns associated with the possible presence of residual 1,4‐dioxane in alkyl ether sulphates [25]. Sulphate‐free surfactants often have a poor foamability, and they do not thicken well with common rheology modifiers [26]. Compatibility with rheology modifiers is an important property for surfactants used in personal care given the wide use of modifiers to achieve the desired texture of the final product.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Optimizing interactions between soluble silk fibroin and capryl glucoside for design of a natural and high‐performance co‐surfactant system

Maxwell

Costache

Giarrosso

et al. 2020

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

ObjectivesBecause of the strong consumer driver towards more natural or higher sustainability cosmetic products, silk fibroin was evaluated to help develop a formulation with natural and effective ingredients for personal care. In order to exploit the physical properties of silk fibroin, it was evaluated to maximize the surfactant properties of other commercial ingredients to lower surface tension and build up viscosity. A synergistic effect was seen between silk fibroin and capryl glucoside, a sugar surfactant which exhibited a natural and effective co‐surfactant system. This system demonstrated better surface tension properties than sodium laureth sulphate (SLES), cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), rhamnolipids and sophorolipids, which led to greater foamability and cleansing properties. This system proved to also be compatible with polysaccharide viscosity modifiers to enhance the viscosity of the system. The present study comprises a systematic exploration of natural formulation development of silk proteins and other natural ingredients, which result in high performance such as enhanced foam quality, foam stability and enhanced sebum removal. All of these properties are desirable and may utilized when formulating cleaners and shampoos.MethodsA force tensiometer, Attension Sigma 701, was used to measure the surface tension of the silk protein and its various combinations with biosurfactants and biopolymers. To measure bulk rheology, a traditional mechanical rheometer TA DHR‐3 was utilized. Foaming tests and sebum removal assays were also carried out to evaluate the performance of the samples.ResultsSilk fibroin was evaluated to maximize the surfactant properties of other commercial systems to develop a formulation containing natural and effective ingredients for personal care. The surface activity of silk proteins was seen to be synergistically enhanced in the presence of sugar surfactants such as capryl glucoside, resulting in a surface tension at the air–water interface which is lower than either that of pure silk fibroin or pure capryl glucoside. This surface tension value is additionally lower than that obtained from currently utilized synthetic surfactants like sodium laureth sulphate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB). This reduction in surface tension demonstrated greater foamability and cleansing properties than that of the commercial systems. The very low surface tension values obtained through combinations of silk proteins and glucoside resulted in a natural and effective co‐surfactant system by forming high‐quality stable foams and enhancing sebum removal. The rheological performance of the silk proteins was impacted through microstructure modifications as a result of interactions with biopolymers like carrageenan. This shows that this system is compatible with polysaccharide viscosity modifiers. It was observed that both the flow curve and the absolute viscosity values were significantly impacted in the presence of carrageenan, with higher viscosity generation and significant non‐Newtonian/shear thinning behaviour evolution. These results indicate that the silk fibroin can be utilized to build a high‐performance natural product and significantly enhance the performance of other natural/sustainable cosmetic formulations through building synergistic interactions with other natural ingredients such as sugar surfactants and biopolymers. These properties exhibited by this system are all desirable for cleansers and shampoos within the cosmetic industry.ConclusionSilk fibroin in combination with capryl glucoside outperforms other commercial surfactants that are commonly used in the industry because of its surface‐active behaviour and synergy. This system is then enhanced further with polysaccharide rheological modifiers, carrageen and xanthan gum to help build up viscosity. The complex mixture of silk fibroin, sugar surfactant and biopolymer results in a formulation that is all natural, while still having high performance by achieving great foamability and enhanced sebum removal. The mixture can further be used to formulate a fully natural product such as a cleanser or shampoo while still having the same or greater effectiveness as synthetic surfactants and ingredients typically used in cosmetic formulations.

show abstract

“…Generally, very pure surfactants, even if they have the ideal structure, do not produce good foams. The best foams are produced when blends of surfactants are used and when foam boosters are introduced (Cornwel, 2018). Ionic surfactants generally 504 present better foam stability compared to nonionic surfactants, which should be attributed to electrostatic interaction forces existing in ionic surfactant solutions (Sheng et al, 2016).…”

Section: Foaming Properties and Stabilitymentioning

confidence: 99%

The Role of Surfactants in Liquid Soaps and Its Antimicrobial Properties

Nazdrajic¹,

Bratovčić²

2019

IJAR

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

A review of shampoo surfactant technology: consumer benefits, raw materials and recent developments

Cited by 130 publications

References 32 publications

Development of hair care formulations containing Spirulina platensis and Ascophyllum nodosum extracts

Development of hair care formulations containing Spirulina platensis and Ascophyllum nodosum extracts

Optimizing interactions between soluble silk fibroin and capryl glucoside for design of a natural and high‐performance co‐surfactant system

The Role of Surfactants in Liquid Soaps and Its Antimicrobial Properties

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About