From the Parochial to the Universal: Comparing Cloth Cultures in the Bronze Age

Abstract

The aim of this research is to compare the cloth cultures of Europe and Egypt in the Bronze Age and New Kingdom. The comparison focuses on the fourteenth century BC and includes four geographically separate areas including the oak coffin burials of southern Scandinavia, the Hallstatt salt mines of central Europe, the Final Palace period of Crete and the tombs and towns of the later eighteenth Dynasty of Egypt. The comparative approach can bring insights even when applied to unconnected cultures or regions. However, in this study I concentrate on a restricted chronological period and areas that were connected, directly or indirectly, by widespread networks of trade or exchange. The concept of cloth cultures is used to include both textiles and animal skins as these were closely related materials in the prehistoric past. Information is gathered according to the following categories: raw materials including textile fibre and species of skins, fabric structure and thread count (only for textiles), decoration and finish, use and context. From this study it is possible to recognize the universally shared principles of cloth cultures and the great versatility and creativity in the regional cloth cultures of the Bronze Age.

Appearance in Bronze Age Scandinavia as Seen from the Nybøl burial

“…Craig (1994: 16) points out that the techniques concerning dress and body are 'tailormade' for their specific environment. Until recently, the social significance of clothing and/or cloth has hardly been studied, although this is now becoming a more common topic within archaeology (see, for example, Lee, 2005;Bergerbrant, 2007;Gleba, 2008;Harris, 2012). Combining the study of clothing and the artefacts connected with the body, one can also say something about the body and the society it inhabited, even when the physical remains are missing.…”

Approaching sheep herds origins and the emergence of the wool economy in continental Europe during the Bronze Age

“…Multiple factors must have contributed to this rise of continental wool economies, including technological exchange and a growing demand (e.g. Bender Jørgensen 2018; Frei et al 2017;Harris 2012;Kristiansen 2016). However, the emergence of local production might have been triggered, or facilitated, in the first place by access to woollier animals.…”

Visions of Dress: Recreating Bronze Age Clothing from the Danubian Region

“…As demonstrated by Variant 2, a brightly decorated textile surface placed at the lower hem of the skirt creates a complex, colored texture that clearly catches the eye. Following the ideas of Susanna Harris (2012), the heavy, thick, warm, and long skirt and mantle of the Nordic Type forms a striking contrast to the bright, light, embroidered linen dress of Central Europe.…”

“…Cloth culture is a concept minted by Susanna Harris (2012) and differs from clothing culture in that the focus is on cloth. According to Harris, all societies use cloth-type materials, i.e., flexible, thin sheets of skin, various types of plant fibers, bark, textiles etc.…”