Food localism and resistance: a revival of agriculture and cross‐border relations in Hong Kong

Abstract

Hong Kong, a part of China, yet separated from it by a borderline and a different social system, relies mostly on China for its fresh food. With a high incidence of food contamination, many Hong Kong people have turned to a new food alternative – locally grown organic vegetables. The number of organic growers has risen significantly over the past decade. This paper examines the emergence of local organic food production in Hong Kong since the turn of the century. Not only is this revival of an interest in agricultural production (manifested in the increase in organic farms and organic food consumers that is related to the global movement of eco‐agriculture), it is also intertwined with a public discourse relating to land preservation, the balance between an agricultural economy and urban development and food localism. Continuous food news revealing the scale of substandard and poisonous food produced in China have escalated the scare surrounding unsafe food and has helped turn consumers to local produce and to build the discourses on food localism. The paper argues that such a local food consciousness has been fed by the local politics of resistance against negative influences from China in the evolving cross‐border relations between China and Hong Kong.

The contributions of agritourism to the local food system

“…Strong promotion of local food consumption will also multiply economic transactions between conscientious consumers and local food producers at the rural farms. Chan (2016, p. 314) uses the term “food localism” to “demarcate the public discourse that stresses an awareness of locally and ecologically produced food, which signified better food quality”, and the trends include eating local food, supporting local small-holding farmers and developing community-supported agriculture to grow food ecologically. This trend in consuming local food results in lower food miles and reduced carbon footprint, a positive environmental impact of agritourism (Shah et al , 2019).…”

The role of farm-to-table activities in agritourism towards sustainable development

“…The relationship between FTT activities and environmental sustainability in relation to food is mediated through the production and farming of locally sourced and grown food materials. Chan (2016) uses the term "food localism" to "demarcate the public discourse that stresses an awareness of locally and ecologically produced food, which signified better food quality" and the trends include, "eating local food, supporting local small-holding farmers and developing community-supported agriculture to grow food ecologically" (2016, pp. 313-314).…”

Border as assemblages: Rethinking the border politics of the global food trade

“…Food scares as a result of China's expanding exports have generated a variety of reactions among Asian countries beyond traditional consumerism. Chan's (2016) sophisticated ethnographic research on local food production in Hong Kong revealed how local organic food production in Hong Kong is a form of "food resistance" against unsafe food products from China. This type of resistance coincides with the general resistance against the encroachment of mainland China's political directives in post-1997 Hong Kong.…”