'Fighting the Corsetless Evil': Shaping Corsets and Culture, 1900-1930

Fields, Jill

doi:10.1353/jsh.1999.0053

Cited by 36 publications

(9 citation statements)

References 17 publications

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“…(p. 354) However, other foundation garments later emerged, such as the girdle, that helped women achieve an ideal body. Fields (1999) posited the liberation of women had started and, therefore, women were able to free themselves of the corsets that had been common for many years prior. As stressed by several authors of the texts examined, in the 1920s, focus was placed on choosing what was best for one's own body.…”

Section: Notedmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…There were no discussions of corsets from this point onward. As Fields (1999) noted:Women’s claims to wage work, to academic and physical education, to public protest over access to suffrage and birth control, and to pleasurable leisure activities such as dancing to tango parties all brought daily corset wear into question. (p. 354)However, other foundation garments later emerged, such as the girdle, that helped women achieve an ideal body.…”

Section: Time Period and Silhouettementioning

confidence: 99%

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The “Use of Lines in Your Clothing Will Work Magic”: Advice to Women From 1914 to 1961 on Using Line to Design an Ideal Body Type

Ridgway

2020

Clothing and Textiles Research Journal

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Women have sought and received advice on how to dress for as long as they have been putting clothing on their bodies. One area in which women have received advice on dressing for their body type is the use of line in dress as an illusion to change the way body shape and size is perceived. This study was undertaken to gain a better historical understanding of advice on dressing for different body types between 1914 and 1961. Advice books and textbooks written for women from 1914 to 1961 that included prescriptive information on how to dress for various body types were explored. This time period was selected as it coincides with critical years in the growth and maturity of the home economic movement in the United States. A content analysis of 15 historical texts revealed trends found within the themes of body ideal, line as illusion, and figure types.

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Section: Notedmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Time Period and Silhouettementioning

confidence: 99%

The “Use of Lines in Your Clothing Will Work Magic”: Advice to Women From 1914 to 1961 on Using Line to Design an Ideal Body Type

Ridgway

2020

Clothing and Textiles Research Journal

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“…Corset companies in the 1920s created figure-type classifications for corsets that “bolstered their claims to scientific validation of their products, and to the need for professional fitters” (Fields, 1999, p. 372). Corsetieres realized that plus-sized women’s body proportions were more varied than average-sized women and that the stout needed support in different ways.…”

Section: Prescriptive and Proscriptive Dress Advice For Plus-sized Womenmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Saleswomen commonly attended company-based corset schools to learn the methods and characteristics of the corsets they would be selling. Plus-sized women often stated feeling at ease when the corset fitter themselves was larger (“A guide to chic,” 1924; Fields, 1999; “Simplicity of line,” 1924). This concept was on par with sentiments expressed toward plus-sized women clothing saleswomen.…”

Section: Prescriptive and Proscriptive Dress Advice For Plus-sized Womenmentioning

confidence: 99%

“The New Costumes of Odd Sizes”

Keist

Marcketti

2013

Clothing and Textiles Research Journal

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By 1916 over 13 million women or 12.7% of the total U.S. population was considered overweight or “stout.” In the 1920s, the term “stout.” indicated an (often matronly appearance) with generous bust, back and hip curves that did not fit with fashion s demands of the ideal stylish figure. Research related to ready-to-wear fashions for plus sized women in the 20th century is almost non-existent. The purpose of this study was to explore available ready-to-wear fashions for the plus sized woman during the years 1920-1929. To explore this topic, a historical method approach was utilized using primary sources that included The New York Times, Vogue, and Good Housekeeping. The results of this study identified prescriptive and proscriptive advice regarding appropriate clothing styles and merchandising trends marketed to plus sized women.

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“…In this context, the emphasis is on the footprints of the ruling classes on the articulation of bodily ideals and practices as well as on their diffusion into various social classes (e.g. Fields, 1999;Olgin, 1997;Toombs, 1997). The media plays an important part in the process, usually by enhancing images that reinforce hegemonic notions of race, class and gender (Game, 1998).…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Hegemony and Homogeneity

Birenbaum‐Carmeli

Carmeli

Madjar

et al. 2002

Journal of Material Culture

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This article explores the relevance of hegemony theory to choices of sperm donors made by Jewish Israeli recipients of donor insemination (DI). The context is the objectification of ‘the Natural’ through hegemonic images of mass consumption. The study, which was conducted in a major Israeli hospital, examined physiological features (height, eye colour, skin colour) of the most popular donors. In the highly familistic society of Israel, recipients’ choices conformed to images of their own ‘natural family’. Within the limits of the family’s looks, choices revealed a convergence of specific type of physiognomy - that of the hegemonic Ashkenazi man. While recipients tended to reproduce their own appearance they often ‘compromised’ it towards the kind of looks constructed as desirable in the mass media. The choice of donors by DI recipients presents an extreme case in which people construct their own family by incorporating hegemonic ideals of mass consumption.

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'Fighting the Corsetless Evil': Shaping Corsets and Culture, 1900-1930

Cited by 36 publications

References 17 publications

The “Use of Lines in Your Clothing Will Work Magic”: Advice to Women From 1914 to 1961 on Using Line to Design an Ideal Body Type

The “Use of Lines in Your Clothing Will Work Magic”: Advice to Women From 1914 to 1961 on Using Line to Design an Ideal Body Type

“The New Costumes of Odd Sizes”

Hegemony and Homogeneity

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