Extreme wave runup on a vertical cliff

Carbone, Francesco; Dutykh, Denys; Dudley, John M.; Dias, Frédéric

doi:10.1002/grl.50637

Cited by 45 publications

(30 citation statements)

References 42 publications

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“…We repeated several of these experiments using half of the domain (required by the periodic code and with the wall boundary conditions described in this paper). The results were identical (except for the accuracy) to those obtained in , while our code remained stable during the strong interactions of the waves with the wall. This verifies that the wall boundary conditions and the new numerical method can describe accurately strong interactions and extreme wave runup on a wall.…”

Section: Numerical Experimentssupporting

confidence: 74%

“…Remark In some cases, it is considered that the reflection of a wave‐train of more than one pulse can result in extreme runup values. Extreme wave runup on a vertical wall has been studied using periodic‐boundary conditions and the head‐on collision of wave‐trains propagating in different directions in . We repeated several of these experiments using half of the domain (required by the periodic code and with the wall boundary conditions described in this paper).…”

Section: Numerical Experimentsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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A modified Galerkin/finite element method for the numerical solution of the Serre‐Green‐Naghdi system

Mitsotakis

Synolakis

McGuinness

2016

Numerical Methods in Fluids

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Abstract. A new modified Galerkin / Finite Element Method is proposed for the numerical solution of the fully nonlinear shallow water wave equations. The new numerical method allows the use of low-order Lagrange finite element spaces, despite the fact that the system contains third order spatial partial derivatives for the depth averaged velocity of the fluid. After studying the efficacy and the conservation properties of the new numerical method, we proceed with the validation of the new numerical model and boundary conditions by comparing the numerical solutions with laboratory experiments and with available theoretical asymptotic results.

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Section: Numerical Experimentssupporting

confidence: 74%

Section: Numerical Experimentsmentioning

confidence: 99%

A modified Galerkin/finite element method for the numerical solution of the Serre‐Green‐Naghdi system

Mitsotakis

Synolakis

McGuinness

2016

Numerical Methods in Fluids

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“…For example, wave tank experiments are proving important in ongoing studies of processes such as dissipation, wavebreaking and air-sea interaction, and there is no doubt that attempts to understand ocean wave dynamics using wave tank experiments will remain a major area of research for decades to come. And in addition to studies of rogue waves, there are also many studies required to improve understanding of how nonlinear focussing may contribute to other phenomena such as wave run up [169]. It is also possible in this regard that advances in developing new analogous spatial propagation systems in optics may lead to further areas of cross-fertilization where insights between the two disciplines can continue to be shared.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Rogue waves and analogies in optics and oceanography

et al. 2019

Self Cite

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We review the study of rogue waves and related instabilities in optical and oceanic environments, with particular focus on recent experimental developments. In optics, we emphasize results arising from the use of real-time measurement techniques, whilst in oceanography we consider insights obtained from analysis of real-world ocean wave data and controlled experiments in wave tanks. Although significant progress in understanding rogue waves has been made based on an analogy between wave dynamics in optics and hydrodynamics, these comparisons have predominantly focused on one-dimensional nonlinear propagation scenarios. As a result, there remains significant debate about the dominant physical mechanisms driving the generation of ocean rogue waves in the complex environment of the open sea. Here, we review stateof-the-art of rogue wave studies in optics and hydrodynamics, aiming to clearly identify similarities and differences between the results obtained in the two fields. In hydrodynamics, we take care to review results that support both nonlinear and linear interpretations of ocean rogue wave formation, and in optics, we also summarise results from an emerging area of research applying the measurement techniques developed for the study of rogue waves to dissipative soliton systems. We conclude with a discussion of important future research directions. the underlying carrier wave is considered sinusoidal at frequency ω whereas in hydrodynamics, the NLSE envelope modulates the Stokes wave which (to second-order) contains contributions at both ω and the second harmonic 2ω [31]. In addition, even though the terminology "optical wave breaking" is used in an NLSE context to describe the steepening of an optical envelope from nonlinear focussing [32], optical carrier waves themselves do not "break" or plunge as they do in hydrodynamics [33,34]. There are also important differences concerning measurements. Specifically, experiments in optical fibres generally measure only the time-domain envelope intensity, and information about carrier oscillations is not recorded. In contrast, measurements in hydrodynamics directly record the individual carrier wave amplitudes (although envelope information can be reconstructed straightforwardly [35]). Particular care must therefore be taken when comparing statistics between optics and hydrodynamics, because statistics in fibre optics experiments are determined

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“…However, for vertical seawalls where ∞, wave runup is minimal and is limited to a theoretical value of % ⁄ 1.4 [43]. In such cases, where waves frequently impact the structure, wave height is usually twice the incident wave amplitude and can produce a vertical plume of circa 5.5 times the wave amplitude [44]. On sloping coastal defenses, such as dykes, wave overtopping occurs when wave runup exceeds the height of defense structures [45].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Coastal Flood Assessment Based on Field Debris Measurements and Wave Runup Empirical Model

David

Bernatchez

Boucher‐Brossard

et al. 2015

JMSE

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On 6 December 2010, an extra-tropical storm reached Atlantic Canada, causing coastal flooding due to high water levels being driven toward the north shore of Chaleur Bay. The extent of flooding was identified in the field along the coastline at Maria using DGPS. Using the assumption that the maximum elevation of flooded areas represents the combination of astronomical tide, storm surge and wave runup, which is the maximum elevation reached by the breaking waves on the beach, all flood limits were identified. A flood-zone delineation was performed using GIS and LiDAR data. An empirical formula was used to estimate runup elevation during the flood event. A coastal flood map of the 6 December flood event was made using empirical data and runup calculations according to offshore wave climate simulations. Along the natural beach, results show that estimating runup based on offshore wave data and upper foreshore beach slope represents well the observed flood extent. Where a seawall occupies the beach, wave breaking occurs at the toe of the structure and wave height needs to be considered independently of runup. In both cases (artificial and natural), flood risk is underestimated if storm surge height alone is considered. There is a need to incorporate wave characteristics in order to adequately model potential flood extent. A coastal flooding projection is proposed for Pointe Verte based on total water levels estimated according to wave climate simulation return periods and relative sea-level rise for the Chaleur Bay.

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Extreme wave runup on a vertical cliff

Cited by 45 publications

References 42 publications

A modified Galerkin/finite element method for the numerical solution of the Serre‐Green‐Naghdi system

A modified Galerkin/finite element method for the numerical solution of the Serre‐Green‐Naghdi system

Rogue waves and analogies in optics and oceanography

Coastal Flood Assessment Based on Field Debris Measurements and Wave Runup Empirical Model

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