2003
DOI: 10.4319/lo.2003.48.1.0001
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Extreme water velocities: Topographical amplification of wave‐induced flow in the surf zone of rocky shores

Abstract: Water velocities as high as 25 m s Ϫ1 have been recorded in the surf zone of wave-swept rocky shores-velocities more than twice the phase speed of the breaking waves with which they are associated. How can water travel twice as fast as the waveform that initially induces its velocity? We explore the possibility that the interaction of a wave with the local topography of the shore can greatly amplify the water velocities imposed on intertidal plants and animals. Experiments in a laboratory wave tank show that i… Show more

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Cited by 67 publications
(80 citation statements)
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“…Subtidal marine macroalgae experience a water velocity on the order of magnitude of 1 m s −1 (Carrington, 1990), while intertidal species can experience breaking waves of up to 25 m s −1 (Denny et al, 2003). A is the algal planform area; and C d the drag coefficient (dimensionless index of shape change and reconfiguration of flexible fronds; Carrington, 1990;Dudgeon and Johnson, 1992;Gaylord et al, 1994).…”
Section: Boundary Conditionsmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Subtidal marine macroalgae experience a water velocity on the order of magnitude of 1 m s −1 (Carrington, 1990), while intertidal species can experience breaking waves of up to 25 m s −1 (Denny et al, 2003). A is the algal planform area; and C d the drag coefficient (dimensionless index of shape change and reconfiguration of flexible fronds; Carrington, 1990;Dudgeon and Johnson, 1992;Gaylord et al, 1994).…”
Section: Boundary Conditionsmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Breaking waves can generate water velocities greater than 20·m·s -1 (e.g. Denny et al, 2003;O'Donnell, 2005) and impose considerable forces on intertidal inhabitants . Moreover, sessile organisms, such as marine macroalgae, cannot seek shelter when environmental conditions worsen; they must endure wave impacts wherever they settle and grow.…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Substrate slope shapes hydrodynamic forces, illumination and sedimentation patterns, and as such, influences the distribution of benthic and benthopelagic assemblages (e.g. Denny et al 2003, Letourneur et al 2003, Milazzo et al 2011. Its importance seems to be accentuated by the correlation with terrain complexity measures in this study, implying that a significant slope effect could also represent, for instance, a ruggedness effect.…”
Section: Substrate-related Effectsmentioning
confidence: 77%