Evaluation of wave runup predictions from numerical and parametric models

Stockdon, Hilary F.; Thompson, David M.; Plant, Nathaniel G.; Long, Joseph W.

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.06.004

Cited by 113 publications

(113 citation statements)

References 30 publications

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“…Wave run-up is often calculated using parameterizations based on field observations (e.g., Ruessink et al, 1998;Ruggiero et al, 2001Ruggiero et al, , 2004Stockdon et al, 2006;Senechal et al, 2011). However, their performance is questionable during extreme wave conditions (Stockdon et al, 2014). Furthermore, run-up parameterizations are strongly dependent on the beach morphology features, tidal level elevation, and wave forcing conditions.…”

Section: G Medellín Et Al: Downscaling Run-upmentioning

confidence: 99%

Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

Medellín

Brinkkemper

Torres-Freyermuth

et al. 2016

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. We present a downscaling approach for the study of wave-induced extreme water levels at a location on a barrier island in Yucatán (Mexico). Wave information from a 30-year wave hindcast is validated with in situ measurements at 8 m water depth. The maximum dissimilarity algorithm is employed for the selection of 600 representative cases, encompassing different combinations of wave characteristics and tidal level. The selected cases are propagated from 8 m water depth to the shore using the coupling of a third-generation wave model and a phase-resolving nonhydrostatic nonlinear shallow-water equation model. Extreme wave run-up, R 2 % , is estimated for the simulated cases and can be further employed to reconstruct the 30-year time series using an interpolation algorithm. Downscaling results show run-up saturation during more energetic wave conditions and modulation owing to tides. The latter suggests that the R 2 % can be parameterized using a hyperbolic-like formulation with dependency on both wave height and tidal level. The new parametric formulation is in agreement with the downscaling results (r 2 = 0.78), allowing a fast calculation of wave-induced extreme water levels at this location. Finally, an assessment of beach vulnerability to wave-induced extreme water levels is conducted at the study area by employing the two approaches (reconstruction/parameterization) and a storm impact scale. The 30-year extreme water level hindcast allows the calculation of beach vulnerability as a function of return periods. It is shown that the downscaling-derived parameterization provides reasonable results as compared with the numerical approach. This methodology can be extended to other locations and can be further improved by incorporating the storm surge contributions to the extreme water level.

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Section: G Medellín Et Al: Downscaling Run-upmentioning

confidence: 99%

Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

Medellín

Brinkkemper

Torres-Freyermuth

et al. 2016

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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“…Runup is generally calculated in terms of the two percent exceedance value of wave runup (R2%) for the TWL [34]. Runup (R) on a natural beach mainly depends on offshore significant wave height (H0) and wavelength ( 2 ⁄ ; where g is the acceleration due to gravity (981m/s), T is the wave period (s)) and the beach slope [29,[36][37][38] grouped under the non-dimensional Iribarren number . The Iribarren number, also referred to surf zone similarity parameter, is widely used in the computation of runup and overtopping discharge [37] and in near-shore process assessments [28].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Coastal Flood Assessment Based on Field Debris Measurements and Wave Runup Empirical Model

David

Bernatchez

Boucher‐Brossard

et al. 2015

JMSE

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On 6 December 2010, an extra-tropical storm reached Atlantic Canada, causing coastal flooding due to high water levels being driven toward the north shore of Chaleur Bay. The extent of flooding was identified in the field along the coastline at Maria using DGPS. Using the assumption that the maximum elevation of flooded areas represents the combination of astronomical tide, storm surge and wave runup, which is the maximum elevation reached by the breaking waves on the beach, all flood limits were identified. A flood-zone delineation was performed using GIS and LiDAR data. An empirical formula was used to estimate runup elevation during the flood event. A coastal flood map of the 6 December flood event was made using empirical data and runup calculations according to offshore wave climate simulations. Along the natural beach, results show that estimating runup based on offshore wave data and upper foreshore beach slope represents well the observed flood extent. Where a seawall occupies the beach, wave breaking occurs at the toe of the structure and wave height needs to be considered independently of runup. In both cases (artificial and natural), flood risk is underestimated if storm surge height alone is considered. There is a need to incorporate wave characteristics in order to adequately model potential flood extent. A coastal flooding projection is proposed for Pointe Verte based on total water levels estimated according to wave climate simulation return periods and relative sea-level rise for the Chaleur Bay.

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“…Default settings of n, α and γ are based on a limited number of tests undertaken predominantly in the wave flume. A variation of these settings (γ = 0.42) was tested for the calibration process here, which has been found (Stockdon et al, 2014) to result in improved estimation of maximum run-up at Duck, USA, a sandy beach with similar environmental characteristics (i.e. barred profile, microtidal) to those in Emilia-Romagna.…”

Section: -Breaker Index In Dissipation Model (Gamma)mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Recent advancements in coupled hydrodynamic-morphodynamic models such as XBeach (Roelvink et al, 2009) have enabled these processes to be simulated with enhanced accuracy and numerical efficiency. XBeach has been shown to successfully model a diverse range of extreme scenarios, such as hurricane impacts on barrier islands (McCall et al, 2010), coastal inundation on beaches protected by rubble-mound breakwaters , dune erosion during Australian east coast lows (Splinter and Palmsten, 2012) and maximum wave runup (Stockdon et al, 2014).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Can an early-warning system help minimize the impacts of coastal storms? A case study of the 2012 Halloween storm, northern Italy

Harley

Valentini

Armaroli

et al. 2016

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. The Emilia-Romagna early-warning system (ER-EWS) is a state-of-the-art coastal forecasting system that comprises a series of numerical models (COSMO, ROMS, SWAN and XBeach) to obtain a daily 3-day forecast of coastal storm hazard at eight key sites along the EmiliaRomagna coastline (northern Italy). On the night of 31 October 2012, a major storm event occurred that resulted in elevated water levels (equivalent to a 1-in-20-to 1-in-50-year event) and widespread erosion and flooding. Since this storm happened just 1 month prior to the roll-out of the ER-EWS, the forecast performance related to this event is unknown. The aim of this study was to therefore reanalyse the ER-EWS as if it had been operating a day before the event and determine to what extent the forecasts may have helped reduce storm impacts. Three different reanalysis modes were undertaken: (1) a default forecast (DF) mode based on 3-day wave and water-level forecasts and default XBeach parameters; (2) a measured offshore (MO) forecast mode using wave and water-level measurements and default XBeach parameters; and (3) a calibrated XBeach (CX) mode using measured boundary conditions and an optimized parameter set obtained through an extensive calibration process. The results indicate that, while a "code-red" alert would have been issued for the DF mode, an underprediction of the extreme water levels of this event limited high-hazard forecasts to only two of the eight ER-EWS sites. Forecasts based on measured offshore conditions (the MO mode) more-accurately indicate high-hazard conditions for all eight sites. Further considerable improvements are observed using an optimized XBeach parameter set (the CX mode) compared to default parameters. A series of what-if scenarios at one of the sites show that artificial dunes, which are a common management strategy along this coastline, could have hypothetically been constructed as an emergency procedure to potentially reduce storm impacts.

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Evaluation of wave runup predictions from numerical and parametric models

Cited by 113 publications

References 30 publications

Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

Coastal Flood Assessment Based on Field Debris Measurements and Wave Runup Empirical Model

Can an early-warning system help minimize the impacts of coastal storms? A case study of the 2012 Halloween storm, northern Italy

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